Please check my check list- Mating/Installing motor and trans

[LIME TWIST DART]

Tomorrow I will finally be dropping in the 408 and 904. It has been 20 years since I've done this, so its like the first time. I've searched the forums and read the manual. I'm gonna make a short list of what needs to happen and the specs I came up with along with some pics. I would appreciate feedback on discrepancies with torque numbers, things I've missed and suggestions in general. My first post will be more about mating the motor and trans (this will happen under the car). The second post will be engine and trans mounts. Thanks guys.

Eagle forged stroker crank. Internal balanced. Neutral flex and neutral converter.
Motor is over 500 horse, 904 is rebuilt and converter is supposed to be 4000.
Valve body pattern is unknown. When it comes to the stall and converter i'm taking the previous owners word on condition etc. Everything else about the car has proven to be as advertised. The motor was brand new when purchased, but i still had it completely gone through to have everything verified. Put in thicker push rods, ported the heads, verified cam specs and other internals. Couldn't help myself.

The Plan
-I have new and correct ARP bolts for flex to crank, flex to converter, and housing to block.
-I will pre mark the offset bolts on flex and converter.
-1/2 quart trans fluid into converter. What type are you guys using?
-Converter into trans by rotating and making sure it fully seats. Manual says 1/2" below flush from housing face to bolt pad face on converter.
-C clamp to hold converter in place.
-Bolt flex to crank.
-Grease crank recess.
-Drop the motor down into compartment and set loose into motor mounts.
- Raise trans into position and bolt housing to block.
- Pull converter slightly forward and line up the 5 and 7 position converter to flex holes and bolt.
(I will have to rotate the assembly another day to get the other two bolts in)

Torque
Flex plate to crank flange 55 foot lbs
Flex plate to converter 270 inch lbs or at .083333333 foot lb. per inch lb. = 22.5 foot lbs? That seem right?
Bell housing to block 28 foot lbs

 

[LIME TWIST DART]

I'm a bit more concerned about getting the mounts in right.
Do I mate both halves of each mount together, then bolt to motor, then to cross-member?
Or, Lower half of mount to cross-member, upper half to motor, then mate the two halves?
Do I leave everything loose until the trans is bolted up?
Loose until the trans is bolted to its cross member?
Clarification on procedure order would be very helpful.
Also, which mount goes on what side? does the one that jogs a little go on the driver or passenger side?

-Thanks again

 

[Bad Sport]

-1/2 quart trans fluid into converter. What type are you guys using?

Type F for firmer shifts, unless you have a manual VB or a shift kit.


-Converter into trans by rotating and making sure it fully seats. Manual says 1/2" below flush from housing face to bolt pad face on converter.

Listen for two distinctive thuds while it's dropping in. I would also put just a little trans fluid or oil on the converter snout so it's not going in dry against the dry rubber seal.


Flex plate to converter 270lbs

270 lbs??

 

[nothingbutdarts]

That would be maybe 270" pounds on the converter bolts.

Wow, solid motor mounts OUCH! I guess it won't go anywhere though!

I first like to start off knowing exactly where the engine is sitting. I usually set it at TDC #1 when I put it in, then count all revolutions you turn it to bolt up the converter so you know exactly where TDC #1 is when dropping in the distributor so there is no guessing game when you first try to fire it off. I so hate to have to crank and crank a new engine over to get it to fire off.

As mentioned make sure the converter is seated all the way back in the transmission. (meaning the dogs in the converter set into the ears on the transm. oil pump, also a light coat of ATF or vasoline on the converter hub before you put it in the transm.)

As you put the transm. onto the engine, watch an make sure the converter spins mostly free and that it's not binding by being too far forward and hitting the flexplate because it didn't get seated correctly into the oil pump ears. If correct, it will slide forward and backwards say 1/8 of an inch or so.

Tighten up all mounting points after everything id bolted together.

Have a hose ready to help cool down the radiator on break-in in case it starts to get hot.

I can't help you on which mount goes on which side with the jog. I bolt the "insulator/now steel spacer in your case" to the block mount and the block mounts bolted tightly to the block before installation.

For kicks, I like to test fit the converter into the crank bore before installing it into the transmission to make sure there is no problem.

Also my preference is to have the transmission bolted to it's mount and the front of it held up with a floor jack or something that sits on the oil pan, then put the motor in. Just the way I do most installs.

 

[LIME TWIST DART]

Thanks for the feed back guys.

Fortunately for me, the motor had about 8-10 runs on the dyno already.

I knew 270 lbs sounded crazy. But yes it's 270 inch lbs not foot lbs. Thanks for pointing that out.

Also, thanks for heads up on lubing the converter snout.

Solid mounts came with the project and I'm cool with it because it won't get driven too much or too far. At least not with the current setup.

 

[nothingbutdarts]

Good that it's broke in already, it's fun to do the first start but, can be a pain in the rear also if it doesn't fire right up and you end up wipping out a cam.

 

[Treblig]

Don't know if it's been covered or if you might already know....if it's a newly overhauled trans, then it's best to keep the car up on jacks, fill the trans with fluid, start and run the engine, run the trans through the gears (using the brake to stop the trans between gears), keep running the trans through all the gears and stop and recheck the fluid level numerous times. As the trans fluid gets into all the nooks and crannies in the trans and fills the converter it will eventually get full. It will take quite a few cycles (re-filling, running through gears, repeat) but the trans will last a lot longer if it's completely full of fluid before you drive it down the street!! Don't ask me how I know!!

PS - I would try and get as much fluid in the convertor as possible before installing it. Convertors can hold a few quarts of fluid, not to mention trans lines and trans cooler.

treblig

 

[LIME TWIST DART]

Don't know if it's been covered or if you might already know....if it's a newly overhauled trans, then it's best to keep the car up on jacks, fill the trans with fluid, start and run the engine, run the trans through the gears (using the brake to stop the trans between gears), keep running the trans through all the gears and stop and recheck the fluid level numerous times. As the trans fluid gets into all the nooks and crannies in the trans and fills the converter it will eventually get full. It will take quite a few cycles (re-filling, running through gears, repeat) but the trans will last a lot longer if it's completely full of fluid before you drive it down the street!! Don't ask me how I know!!

PS - I would try and get as much fluid in the convertor as possible before installing it. Convertors can hold a few quarts of fluid, not to mention trans lines and trans cooler.

treblig

The motor won't get fired again (was on the dyno) for a couple more months. Still have to get the fuel and cooling systems installed and get her wired up. Its pretty bare bones at the moment. This is great advice for breaking in the trans though. I appreciate it.

 

[LIME TWIST DART]

Anybody know what the motor mounts should be torqued to?

 

[LIME TWIST DART]

Trying to get the answer to these last few questions.

-Anybody know what the motor mounts should be torqued to?
At mounts and block?
At spacer and mounts?
At spacer and frame?

-Do the mounts bolt to the front edge or back edge of the ears on the block?

-What side does the mount that has a slight jog or curve in it go (the one with 3 bolt holes, the other one has 4), driver or passenger side?

Thanks,

 

[LIME TWIST DART]

Searched some more threads and its looking like the mount with a curve goes on the driver side.

Also, looks like mounts go to the back of the ears on a 360.

 

[Daves69]

Would it be beneficial to check crank to trans centerline?

 

[nothingbutdarts]

A 1977 factory service manual FSM does not give a torque value for motor mounts to block or insulators to mount for a LA or RB however, they do have specs for a slanty which uses the same size bolts:

7/16" x 20 NF bolts for the mounts to block: 45' lb.
1/2" X 20 NC stud for the insulator to K-frame mount, nut torque 65' lb.

 

[A body]

not too bad of deal until you enter in the "wrestle headers" step! hope it goes well, looks like a really cool combo!

 

[LIME TWIST DART]

A 1977 factory service manual FSM does not give a torque value for motor mounts to block or insulators to mount for a LA or RB however, they do have specs for a slanty which uses the same size bolts:

7/16" x 20 NF bolts for the mounts to block: 45' lb.
1/2" X 20 NC stud for the insulator to K-frame mount, nut torque 65' lb.

Sounds good to me. Thanks

 

[LIME TWIST DART]

not too bad of deal until you enter in the "wrestle headers" step! hope it goes well, looks like a really cool combo!

Sorry to say that I wasn't able to get the motor and trans lined up well enough to mate them.
Ran out of daylight, and my friends wife called him home. lol

Have to say I learned a lot today though. It was close. I just need to get the motor to angle back a little more, and have the car a little lower so I can get the trans up a little higher. It was within an inch. I'll take another shot at it sometime this week. Maybe tomorrow.

 

[golden boy]

I have the Schumacher motor mounts in my 67 408/904 Cuda . they transmit a lot more vibration than the factory rubber isolators. For a street driven car, I think you will regret the solid mounts. Just sayin!

 

[LIME TWIST DART]

I have the Schumacher motor mounts in my 67 408/904 Cuda . they transmit a lot more vibration than the factory rubber isolators. For a street driven car, I think you will regret the solid mounts. Just sayin!

It will be street driven, but no where close to daily. Maybe once a week. Mounts came with the project, so I'm gonna take a run at em. If its not working for me I'll swap them out.

 

[CultClassik]

Quite a setup to learn on!

I can't stand the solid mounts. I have all poly mounts in my daily driver and it rattles my brains out. Luckily it won't take you much work to swap them out after your first drive!

Anyway, on the torque stuff, not everything needs a specific torque value. Things like engine mounts, I make them as tight as I can get with a wrench.