Please help fix these hose problems?

[PanGasket]

Heres some pics of random hoses that are for some reason blocked with screws???
Please help??? I dont even know what some of these hoses are for!
The first one runs all the way back to the gas tank along the line to the fuel pump. This isn't an immediately needs to be resolved thing, but I hate when things are ghetto rigged!

It's a 1972 Dodge Dart Swinger with a 318 2 barrel

This last one just needs to be replaced

 

[74slnt6]

hoses coming from firewall above you ignition box are for the windshield washer fluid container. ( i think ) would provide pics but mine is removed.

 

[slantsixdan]

Somebody has crudely tampered with the evaporative emission control and fuel tank vent system on your car, and as a special bonus whatever moron was ignorantly messing with underhood hoses has also removed the carburetor bowl vent nipple housing and disconnected and plugged your distributor vacuum advance hose. All of this is costing you a great deal of driveability, performance, fuel economy, and safety.

At the right front of the engine bay should be a charcoal canister that looks like a black plastic coffee can with three hose nipples atop it. One goes to the fuel tank vent -- that's the one that has a short length of hose connected to a steel hardline that runs clear back to the fuel tank. Another of the same diameter goes to the carburetor's bowl vent nipple. The third is the canister purge hose. See here for info on how to put this system back the way it's supposed to be.

The small-diameter hose coming from the middle of the passenger side of the carburetor should be connected directly to the vacuum advance pod on the distributor (which you should check to make sure you can't suck air through; if you can, you need a new vacuum advance).

The carb bowl vent nipple housing is available as a repair part; Walker #85-171.

Your choke thermostat pushrod has been crudely bent -- interchange on that choke thermostat is '70-'72.

The Carter BBD repair manual is posted here for free download.

 

[PanGasket]

Somebody has crudely tampered with the evaporative emission control and fuel tank vent system on your car, and as a special bonus whatever moron was ignorantly messing with underhood hoses has also removed the carburetor bowl vent nipple housing and disconnected and plugged your distributor vacuum advance hose. All of this is costing you a great deal of driveability, performance, fuel economy, and safety.

At the right front of the engine bay should be a charcoal canister that looks like a black plastic coffee can with three hose nipples atop it. One goes to the fuel tank vent -- that's the one that has a short length of hose connected to a steel hardline that runs clear back to the fuel tank. Another of the same diameter goes to the carburetor's bowl vent nipple. The third is the canister purge hose. See here for info on how to put this system back the way it's supposed to be.

The small-diameter hose coming from the middle of the passenger side of the carburetor should be connected directly to the vacuum advance pod on the distributor (which you should check to make sure you can't suck air through; if you can, you need a new vacuum advance).

The carb bowl vent nipple housing is available as a repair part; Walker #85-171.

Your choke thermostat pushrod has been crudely bent -- interchange on that choke thermostat is '70-'72.

The Carter BBD repair manual is posted here for free download.

A. Is the emmisions system truely necessary or can it be deleted? will it affect anything and how so? And where can I get a new canister?

B. On the vacuum advance, Im running a point system, will it still need this? and which do I need to make sure I cant suck air through, the hose or the pod?

C. Do I need a new choke thermostat?


Sorry, idiot newb here

 

[cudamark]

A. Is the emmisions system truely necessary or can it be deleted? will it affect anything and how so? And where can I get a new canister?

B. On the vacuum advance, Im running a point system, will it still need this? and which do I need to make sure I cant suck air through, the hose or the pod?

C. Do I need a new choke thermostat?


Sorry, idiot newb here

A. Nothing in the emission system in your '72 negatively effects performance. I'd go ahead and hook it up correctly. Get the vacuum diagram for it and go to town.
B. All street engines should have the vacuum advance hooked up and working. Check the vacuum pod to make sure the diaphram is still good.
C. Your choke unit may still be good but it looks like the rod could use a readjustment. You need to get it the correct length so the choke is fully closed when the engine is cold and fully open when the engine is at operating temp and that the rod doesn't hit the choke housing the full length if it's travel. Check the choke pull-off diaphram for leaks also. You can test it by pulling the hose off the nipple, manually pushing the diaphram rod connection inside the housing, then place your finger over the hole in the end of the nipple, and then release the diaphram. It it stays inside, it's good, if it returns to it's original location, it's got a leak and needs to be replaced. Of course, you could just suck on the nipple to test it but just mentioning that will get these guys excited! What I'm trying to figure out is the hose going from the horn down into the frame!

 

[LH23H2R]

It almost looks like it's got an earlier ( '70 or '71 and earlier 49 state ) motor or at least breather ( N95 California Emissions / Cleaner Air Package ) cars had breathers with only 1 hose coming from it , the one that plugs-onto the side of the air cleaner base .

As previously stated , vacuum advance is a must for street-driven cars !

And , again as previously mentioned , none of the 1972 emissions stuff will affect performance , excepting maybe the springs in the distributor ( you could hang a 1 ton truck off a ledge of the Grand Canyon with those suckers ! ) and any distributor vacuum advance solenoid ( e.g. , OSAC valves ) .

Did your Dart originally have power brakes ( B51 ) ?

See , I'm still thinking you've got a non-original motor in there ...
Check that BBD carb for a triangular-shaped tag , with two-sets of numbers on it
(Carter p.n. and a Julian Calendar build date ) , and the distributor for a tag with the Chrysler p.n. and Julian build date .

Got fender tag pics ?

 

[yellowdartdave]

FYI,
The Diplomat, 5th Ave, Aspen/Volare all use the same charcoal cannister as the A-Body. Just remember to get the bracket and hosed also.

 

[slantsixdan]

A. Is the emmisions system truely necessary or can it be deleted? will it affect anything and how so?

Yes, you should certainly put it back the way it's supposed to be. See here for more info.

And where can I get a new canister?

You can get a new one from a parts store, but you'd have to be creative about specifying application because the Mopar ones weren't serviced in the aftermarket. You'd need to dig through the GM ones until you find a suitable one. Or go to a wrecking yard and get one out of an M-body (Diplomat/Gran Fury/New Yorker Fifth Avenue) or another RWD carbureted Mopar. Turn it upside-down and give it a shake to make sure carbon granules don't come out of any of the fittings.

On the vacuum advance, Im running a point system, will it still need this?

Yes.

and which do I need to make sure I cant suck air through, the hose or the pod?

Hook the hose up to the pod and disconnect the other end of the hose from the carburetor. Suck through the hose to make sure you cannot suck air. You should be able to create and hold a vacuum. If not, the hose and/or the pod is blown and needs replaced.

C. Do I need a new choke thermostat?

I'd probably put in a new one if it were my car, but that's not the top priority right now—your car will run a lot better once you get the hose tampering sorted out. If the car starts up quickly from dead cold and doesn't stall or otherwise misbehave as it warms up, then leave it alone.

You will want to get the three books described in this thread as quickly as you can, and start readin'. Disregard the "slant-6" part of the linked thread's title; the books apply no matter what engine you have.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Living in a suburb of Atlanta, you will definately need to get the evaporative canister hooked up and operational. Since they do require inspections up there, you'll need all that stuff right and the car in good tune to pass inspection. Although we don't have inspections down this far (yet), I still plan to run all of the emmisions controls on my 73, even though I am converting it to a big block. Most of the reason for emmision control that far back was only to keep gasoline vapors from escaping the system and that's a good thing.

 

[PanGasket]

It almost looks like it's got an earlier ( '70 or '71 and earlier 49 state ) motor or at least breather ( N95 California Emissions / Cleaner Air Package ) cars had breathers with only 1 hose coming from it , the one that plugs-onto the side of the air cleaner base .

As previously stated , vacuum advance is a must for street-driven cars !

And , again as previously mentioned , none of the 1972 emissions stuff will affect performance , excepting maybe the springs in the distributor ( you could hang a 1 ton truck off a ledge of the Grand Canyon with those suckers ! ) and any distributor vacuum advance solenoid ( e.g. , OSAC valves ) .

Did your Dart originally have power brakes ( B51 ) ?

See , I'm still thinking you've got a non-original motor in there ...
Check that BBD carb for a triangular-shaped tag , with two-sets of numbers on it
(Carter p.n. and a Julian Calendar build date ) , and the distributor for a tag with the Chrysler p.n. and Julian build date .

Got fender tag pics ?

Yes, you should certainly put it back the way it's supposed to be. See here for more info.



You can get a new one from a parts store, but you'd have to be creative about specifying application because the Mopar ones weren't serviced in the aftermarket. You'd need to dig through the GM ones until you find a suitable one. Or go to a wrecking yard and get one out of an M-body (Diplomat/Gran Fury/New Yorker Fifth Avenue) or another RWD carbureted Mopar. Turn it upside-down and give it a shake to make sure carbon granules don't come out of any of the fittings.



Yes.



Hook the hose up to the pod and disconnect the other end of the hose from the carburetor. Suck through the hose to make sure you cannot suck air. You should be able to create and hold a vacuum. If not, the hose and/or the pod is blown and needs replaced.



I'd probably put in a new one if it were my car, but that's not the top priority right now—your car will run a lot better once you get the hose tampering sorted out. If the car starts up quickly from dead cold and doesn't stall or otherwise misbehave as it warms up, then leave it alone.

You will want to get the three books described in this thread as quickly as you can, and start readin'. Disregard the "slant-6" part of the linked thread's title; the books apply no matter what engine you have.

THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCH DAN!!!!:-D You are my hero right now! I'm just trying to get this car running and driving as it is my daily and I wanna get everything sorted out

 

[PanGasket]

Update!! There is already a hose running to my distributor! Now wtf is that skinny one now?

 

[slantsixdan]

Well, follow the hose that runs to your distributor. Where is its other end? Given the crapmess somebody has made of a bunch of hoses under your hood, it's a good bet whatever's attached to your distributor shouldn't be.

 

[TylerW]

If you run across one on eBay, a factory service manual is almost the Bible for these cars. I have one for my '75 and it illustrates every hose in detail and a '75 has MANY more than a '72.

 

[TylerW]

It almost looks like it's got an earlier ( '70 or '71 and earlier 49 state ) motor or at least breather ( N95 California Emissions / Cleaner Air Package ) cars had breathers with only 1 hose coming from it , the one that plugs-onto the side of the air cleaner base .

As previously stated , vacuum advance is a must for street-driven cars !

And , again as previously mentioned , none of the 1972 emissions stuff will affect performance , excepting maybe the springs in the distributor ( you could hang a 1 ton truck off a ledge of the Grand Canyon with those suckers ! ) and any distributor vacuum advance solenoid ( e.g. , OSAC valves ) .

Did your Dart originally have power brakes ( B51 ) ?

See , I'm still thinking you've got a non-original motor in there ...
Check that BBD carb for a triangular-shaped tag , with two-sets of numbers on it
(Carter p.n. and a Julian Calendar build date ) , and the distributor for a tag with the Chrysler p.n. and Julian build date .

Got fender tag pics ?

Well, it appears to have one of those generic replacement breathers even though the original can be soaked and cleaned.

I'm not familiar with California cars, but I'm pretty sure 1971 49-state V8 cars used a breather with 3 outlets. One connected to the air cleaner, one connected to the carb vent and one connected to the tank vent hardline on the passenger fender apron.

1971 Slant six cars used a breather with 2 connections....one to the air cleaner and one to the tank vent. The carb bowl vent line connected to a port on the top of the fuel pump.

These also use the fuel tank with all the vent connections on it. Chrysler simplified all this with the charcoal canister in '72.

Slantsix dan is on top of it, but there really aren't many vacuum lines on a pre-egr pre-osac engine.

Right side of carb to the distributor advance, large on bottom rear to the PCV valve, small on bottom rear center to choke pull-off, small bottom driver side rear to air cleaner thermal valve, center front small to charcoal canister PURGE.

The climate control system has a few vacuum lines:

If it's still there, there should be a black plastic vacuum tank on the right inner fender. One port connects to manifold vacuum behind the car and the other port is connected to the vacuum line serving the climate. This is to prevent the system from changing modes under low vacuum.

The heater control valve also has a vacuum line running to it from inside the car. You may have to do some investigating to determine which is which if they are as messed up as the others are.

 

[PanGasket]

Well, follow the hose that runs to your distributor. Where is its other end? Given the crapmess somebody has made of a bunch of hoses under your hood, it's a good bet whatever's attached to your distributor shouldn't be.

it runs into the carb in a different area

 

[RustyRatRod]

That appears to be on full manifold vacuum. In other words, in the wrong place.

 

[cosgig]

Still needin' this??? It's from a 73 Dart Sport!!! Let me know, Geof

 

[PanGasket]

Still needin' this??? It's from a 73 Dart Sport!!! Let me know, Geof

Oh yes!!! I really really do!! Cosgig to the rescue again huh??:-D

 

[TylerW]

it runs into the carb in a different area

That's the port for the flapper valve in the air cleaner, by way of the temperature switch mounted into the base of the aircleaner. You run the line from that port to the temp switch, then another from the temp switch to the flapper valve on the snorkel.

I looked at my '71 and realized that the vacuum for the distributor advance is usually supposed to be run through a Temperature Vacuum Switch on the front of the intake. It does that so that the engine doesn't get full timing advance until it warms up.

I hope you can follow all this. I don't live a huge distance away from you so if you need a hand one weekend sorting all this out I'd be glad to help.

 

[cudamark]

Interesting the it has a disc brake master cylinder but not a disc brake code on the fender tag. Wrong cylinder?

 

[PanGasket]

Interesting the it has a disc brake master cylinder but not a disc brake code on the fender tag. Wrong cylinder?

Perhaps?? I know that cylinder is shot though. It will be replaced with a new MC

 

[cudamark]

That's the port for the flapper valve in the air cleaner, by way of the temperature switch mounted into the base of the aircleaner. You run the line from that port to the temp switch, then another from the temp switch to the flapper valve on the snorkel.

I looked at my '71 and realized that the vacuum for the distributor advance is usually supposed to be run through a Temperature Vacuum Switch on the front of the intake. It does that so that the engine doesn't get full timing advance until it warms up.

I hope you can follow all this. I don't live a huge distance away from you so if you need a hand one weekend sorting all this out I'd be glad to help.

I believe it the other way around.....straight vacuum advance when it's cold and delayed when it's at full operating temperature.

 

[HemiPar]

Just wanting to follow your progress so signing in. I can't see any pics so they are block at my work. I will have to look at them when I get home so maybe I will learn from them.

 

[cudamark]

Just wanting to follow your progress so signing in. I can't see any pics so they are block at my work. I will have to look at them when I get home so maybe I will learn from them.

Thank you for your service!
Mark

 

[RustyRatRod]

Perhaps?? I know that cylinder is shot though. It will be replaced with a new MC

The way these reman companies mass produce these junk rebuilt master cylinders, it's no surprise if you get a disc MC in the place of a drum. In fact, it wouldn't surprise me one bit if some of these companies didn't just merge them into one part number.