Please help to select the right stuff, Distributor, wires...

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j par said:
If I were you I would get a bone-stock electronic distributor from the parts store. A stock coil and a stock ignition module and a stock ballast resistor and a stock set of wires and a stock set of spark plugs...
I went from that to full MSD everything and did not see one bit of performance ganes at the quarter mile drag strip...
KEEP IT SIMPLE....
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the problem is I have no clue what was (is) the stock coil, ignition etc.
 
Achill said:
the problem is I have no clue what was (is) the stock coil, ignition etc.
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O'Reilly's Auto Parts, AutoZone are a couple of American chain parts stores...
Go on their websit...
Punch in 1973 Duster with a 318 engine on their website and look up the stock replacement components...
 
While distributor curve and all that is important to a good tune-up and function at this point it's far beyond what's needed..
 
Achill said:
the problem is I have no clue what was (is) the stock coil, ignition etc.
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All of the 'LA' engines physically fit the same distributor. 273, 318, 340, 360 cubic inch - doesn't matter.
It looks like this also true for the later 'magnum' versions of the 318 and 360.

If you had the original distributor from the Jeep Grand Cherokee you could see how it fit. But as far as I can tell its not readily adaptable to a simple carbureted setup.

The wiring on the vehicle is the other factor that will be helpful in choosing the ignition that will plug in most easily.
What year and model car (or truck) and does it still have its factory wiring?
 
Mattax said:
All of the 'LA' engines physically fit the same distributor. 273, 318, 340, 360 cubic inch - doesn't matter.
It looks like this also true for the later 'magnum' versions of the 318 and 360.

If you had the original distributor from the Jeep Grand Cherokee you could see how it fit. But as far as I can tell its not readily adaptable to a simple carbureted setup.

The wiring on the vehicle is the other factor that will be helpful in choosing the ignition that will plug in most easily.
What year and model car (or truck) and does it still have its factory wiring?
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The car is Dodge Dart 1967, I have no stock wiring and no distributor, have no chance to check what will fit...
 
Achill said:
The car is Dodge Dart 1967, I have no stock wiring and no distributor, have no chance to check what will fit...
Click to expand...
OK. In that case you should first come up with a wiring plan, the type of ignition that makes the most sense for you, and the amount of time and effort you are willing and interested in spend adjusting the timing curves.
In my opinion, the last is the most difficult for most people. Difficult in that it requires learning the purpose, repeated testing under different conditions (unless it is drag race only, then it is just two conditions idle and wide open throttle), and physically removing the distributor - partially disassembling it, making adjustments, reasssembly, reinstalling, checking the the curve and retesting).

If you are building you're wiring from scratch then the Pertronix, or HEI module is just as easy as a Chrysler type ECU (shown in the kit Trailbeast linked). It becomes a question of priorities about availability and durability in location and intended uses.
With the info so far, I'd lean toward a mopar performance distributor (or the copy being sold be Eherenberg). The Chrysler (mopar performance) distributor will be stock dimensions. And a good HEI module mounted on its own heat sink could have some advantage over the other two. I would think that in an emergency, HEI modules should be the most available where you are, followed by Chrysler type, and Pertronix the least - But that's just a guess. Quality is the biggest problem with aftermarket electronics.

If you decide on using a 4 pin HEI module, then use a matching e-core type coil.

The objective difference in mpg and 1/4 mile performance will have very little to do with the system you choose if the engine has good combustion characteritics to begin with. See what Jpar wrote above about the MSD in the 1/4 mile. When the combustion is not so good, which too often happens with hot rodded engines or when trying to meet stringent emmissions requirements, then the longer, stronger, higher voltage, or multi-spark can sometimes help.
 
Mattax said:
OK. In that case you should first come up with a wiring plan, the type of ignition that makes the most sense for you, and the amount of time and effort you are willing and interested in spend adjusting the timing curves.
In my opinion, the last is the most difficult for most people. Difficult in that it requires learning the purpose, repeated testing under different conditions (unless it is drag race only, then it is just two conditions idle and wide open throttle), and physically removing the distributor - partially disassembling it, making adjustments, reasssembly, reinstalling, checking the the curve and retesting).

If you are building you're wiring from scratch then the Pertronix, or HEI module is just as easy as a Chrysler type ECU (shown in the kit Trailbeast linked). It becomes a question of priorities about availability and durability in location and intended uses.
With the info so far, I'd lean toward a mopar performance distributor (or the copy being sold be Eherenberg). The Chrysler (mopar performance) distributor will be stock dimensions. And a good HEI module mounted on its own heat sink could have some advantage over the other two. I would think that in an emergency, HEI modules should be the most available where you are, followed by Chrysler type, and Pertronix the least - But that's just a guess. Quality is the biggest problem with aftermarket electronics.

If you decide on using a 4 pin HEI module, then use a matching e-core type coil.

The objective difference in mpg and 1/4 mile performance will have very little to do with the system you choose if the engine has good combustion characteritics to begin with. See what Jpar wrote above about the MSD in the 1/4 mile. When the combustion is not so good, which too often happens with hot rodded engines or when trying to meet stringent emmissions requirements, then the longer, stronger, higher voltage, or multi-spark can sometimes help.
Click to expand...
This is just great reply, thanks a lot! Appreciate all of your replies and help, I'm really surprised how fast and full I can get an information here, this is awesome! Now I have to digest everything and make a right choice :)
 
Achill said:
The car is Dodge Dart 1967, I have no stock wiring and no distributor, have no chance to check what will fit...
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A true 67 car will have a points system and a single ballast resistor and points coil. You can definitely go electronic of choice at this point.
 
halifaxhops said:
A true 67 car will have a points system and a single ballast resistor and points coil. You can definitely go electronic of choice at this point.
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This is why I said find the parts for a 73 duster and it can be really any 73 small block Mopar or up.. everything will fit the same except for it will be in electronic distributor instead of points and like you said the coil as well...
 
And I don't like to get into the points are just fine if you know how to set them and learn how to set them and all that stuff...
At this day and age why bother...
 
I have my way of collecting the necessary parts for Chrysler electronic ignition, which I will not divulge.
Having said that, you can buy complete Chrysler electronic ignition sets from different vendors. I like to keep an eye out for original Mopar Performance sets, with the built in advance distributor. Here is a electronic ign set from Brewers that would work well. $219.00

Or you can go gm hei, and improve it into a total failure.

MRE6991-1.jpg
 
Johnny Dart said:
I have my way of collecting the necessary parts for Chrysler electronic ignition, which I will not divulge.
Having said that, you can buy complete Chrysler electronic ignition sets from different vendors. I like to keep an eye out for original Mopar Performance sets, with the built in advance distributor. Here is a electronic ign set from Brewers that would work well. $219.00

Or you can go gm hei, and improve it into a total failure.

View attachment 1715429252
Click to expand...
BAZINGA!!!...
 
Finally I’ve bought hey distributor, will try to install it later this week, will share results. Thanks to everybody who helped here!
 
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