I tend to agree with moper and wild & crazy.
Leave the exhaust alone would be my suggestion. Clean up the transition from seat to bowl , blend the guide and lightly smooth the kink. There isn't a lot of power in the exhaust anyways and you can trick the engine/head by running 6-10 degrees more exhaust duration.
Spend your time on the intake. On the short turn side, blend it up, parallel with the valve stem then smoothly roll it back into the runner. DO NOT take too much material out as there is water close and "laying back" the short turn isn't beneficial in lower lift applications.
Here's an example of what NOT to do on the short turn... It starts laying back almost immediately from the seat blend. Brought to you by "MWADG Porting". If you see where the light is shining in, you don't really want to lay it back that much. It should go more into the port and smoothly roll back to the port floor.
You don't need to attack the guide boss like that either, you can leave more material around it.
Spend your time gasket matching,opening and smoothing the pushrod pinch. You can take some material from the wall separating the ports at the pinch area to gain some cross section. Be VERY careful at the area where the pushrod travels. If you see the metal starting to wrap or warp up, you're getting it thin... STOP! If you can get a pincher mic to check that particular wall thickness, use it.
Take the port almost to your stop point with a grinding bit and finish it with a sanding roll.
MWADG = monkey with a die grinder = ME!
This was the first set of heads I ported in about 20 years. I was used to porting BB Chevy heads running .700+ lift cam. The requirement to get the BBC heads flowing is far different than a .400-.500 lift SB Mopar and I applied what I remembered to these when I first started. So, some errors were made.
Wish my camera was better resolution. It's a real pile of crap.
