Plugs for lines

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Backally

Backally

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Taking my front end apart. What do you guys use to cap the brake lines? Disconnected between the hard line and rubber line that goes to the caliper, that hard line is going to drip all winter. Tried to get those caps you get with new lines and auto parts stores don't sell them. So what do you use?
 
Backally said:
Taking my front end apart. What do you guys use to cap the brake lines? Disconnected between the hard line and rubber line that goes to the caliper, that hard line is going to drip all winter. Tried to get those caps you get with new lines and auto parts stores don't sell them. So what do you use?
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Only till it runs out of fluid in the master cylinder. :D

One way is to put a little plastic wrap over the ends and a rubber band wrapped around it, but it may not last the winter.
Plastic tubing with the end plugged works pretty good.
Maybe just put a pan under it since it's going to be bled later anyway.
 
Backally said:
Taking my front end apart. What do you guys use to cap the brake lines? Disconnected between the hard line and rubber line that goes to the caliper, that hard line is going to drip all winter. Tried to get those caps you get with new lines and auto parts stores don't sell them. So what do you use?
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Short length of vacuum hose. Silicone the end.
 
Ben Drinkin said:
Short length of vacuum hose. Silicone the end.
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That will work but... tie the brake pedal up or block it up so we don't accidentally apply. The slightest pedal movement can blow yer cap off.
 
Don't want to drain the mc, don't want to have to bleed it if it goes dry. Right now I have a yellow plastic wire nut in it. All plastic so figured it wouldn't hurt the threads if it's just finger tight. Still dripping a little so got a can under it but I know I'll kick that over at some point. Will try one ove the other ideas. Thanks!
 
Backally said:
Don't want to drain the mc, don't want to have to bleed it if it goes dry. Right now I have a yellow plastic wire nut in it. All plastic so figured it wouldn't hurt the threads if it's just finger tight. Still dripping a little so got a can under it but I know I'll kick that over at some point. Will try one ove the other ideas. Thanks!
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If you have disconnected the lines, you're gonna have to bleed the entire system after you put it together anyway.

I have an old turkey baster that I use, suck the MC dry, blow the lines out and be done. Once back together bleed the entire system.

One major benefit is you will have all new fluid. That IS a maintenance item anyway, the system should be refreshed every 2 to 3 years anyway.
 
Bad Sport said:
If you have disconnected the lines, you're gonna have to bleed the entire system after you put it together anyway.

I have an old turkey baster that I use, suck the MC dry, blow the lines out and be done. Once back together bleed the entire system.

One major benefit is you will have all new fluid. That IS a maintenance item anyway, the system should be refreshed every 2 to 3 years anyway.
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I would like to see any mfgrs printed material that states brake fluid should be replaced at any interval.
 
RedFish said:
I would like to see any mfgrs printed material that states brake fluid should be replaced at any interval.
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So you advocate leaving the same fluid in a car for 40, 50 years?

There are several manufacturers that suggest changing it every 2 years. Volkswagen, Mercedes and a few others.

I know it wasn't suggested back when our cars were made, but as time has passed, it has become a service item.

I think Chevrolet is one of the longer ones, 150 thousand or 10 years, something like that.
 
So maybe the modern silicone fluids or antilock components are different. I don't know.
Odds are some component will fail thus some percentage of the fluid will be lost/replaced regardless.
In the case of DOT3, I wouldn't suggest attempting to completely clear the fluid from a system with compressed air. Any moisture will generate rust in a open system. But anyway... I'm off to change the air in my tires. Cheers
 
RedFish said:
I would like to see any mfgrs printed material that states brake fluid should be replaced at any interval.
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Honda every three years regardless of mileage, per certification procedure if it is less than 3mo. away from that schedule from the build date, it gets a brake system flush.
 
Killer6 said:
Honda every three years regardless of mileage, per certification procedure if it is less than 3mo. away from that schedule from the build date, it gets a brake system flush.
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Good info for the ForHondasOnly forum. :)
 
Yote said:
Use a vacume tube cap OR what is known as a thread protector cap .
Yote
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This is what I was thinking, just didn't know what to call them. I ended up running a thread chaser into the plastic wire nut I had, finger tight it doesn't seem to be leaking although I haven't looked in the MC and it may be dry.
Thanks
 
Sorry, I addressed another query not on target w/the original post, now for the OP. If you have the batt. diconnected, or don't mind pulling the stop lamp fuse, simply use something to hold the brake pedal depressed. This blocks the ports and prevents fluid from gravity flowing your master dry, do it all the time at work for decades now, was tired of wearing/
standing in brake fluid changing/fabbing rotted lines. That is all.
 
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