Plumbing a adj proportioning valve?

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GoodysGotaCuda

Mr. Goody
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Can someone explain where a aftermarket prop. valve gets plumbed? Does the stocker still get used?

Thanks :headbang:
 
Why do you want an adj. one? I did a front disc conversion on my '56 and used a combination (for front disc/rear drum set ups) from Master Power Brakes. Love it plumb it in and no guess work, just wish I would have bought the mount braket for it instead of making my own.
 
dial it in a wee bit more than factory with the larger wheels im going with, the 11 3/4" front brakes and such. for the adjustibility factor
 
If your sticking with rear drums residual valve (keeps pressure on the rear brakes) and get rid of the factory unit, plum it in place of the factory unit.
 
What size rear brakes do you currently have? If it's to counter rear-wheel lockup, you can put it anywhere after the distribution block.
 
keep the original dist. block in place and put the adjustable in line between it and the rear wheels. the best way to test if you have it dialed right is to do hard stops on wet roads, then you will see if your fronts lock up before the rears.
 
The factory never put in a proportioning valve. It's just a distribution block with a brake pressure switch. The aftermarket valve goes in the line that goes to the back brakes. What it does is allows you to dial down the pressure to the rear brakes so they won't lock up before the fronts.

don
 
GoodysGotaCuda said:
Can someone explain where a aftermarket prop. valve gets plumbed? Does the stocker still get used?

Thanks :headbang:
Click to expand...
Mine is located about 18 inches back from the distribution block. That`s the stock location, and every aftermarket one I`ve seen has been installed in the original location in place of the factory unit. HTH.
 
The rear brakes tend to lock up on a hard stop, due to weight transfer. With an adjustable valve plummed into the rear brake line you can eliminate the lock up. Easy...Let's you connect any 2 brake systems F/R with the adjustability. My suggestion is to give your front brakes equal pressure thru a "T" fitting and dial your rear brakes down.
 
I put KH discs on my '65 S and plumbed a Mopar Performance/Wilwood adj. proportioning valve into the rear line, right under the driver seat. Not inside the passenger compartment, but outside under the floor. It seemed like a nice place to put it, easy place to cut the rear brake line and the floor pan offered a nice hump where the knob hangs over so you can turn it. I had to drill two small holes in the floor pan for this though.

Now I can just stop the car, open the door, reach under and make an adjustment, then close the door and go again.
 
The rear brakes tend to lock up on a hard stop, due to weight transfer. With an adjustable valve plummed into the rear brake line you can eliminate the lock up. Easy...Let's you connect any 2 brake systems F/R with the adjustability. My suggestion is to give your front brakes equal pressure thru a "T" fitting and dial your rear brakes down.
 
65s said:
I put KH discs on my '65 S and plumbed a Mopar Performance/Wilwood adj. proportioning valve into the rear line, right under the driver seat. Not inside the passenger compartment, but outside under the floor. It seemed like a nice place to put it, easy place to cut the rear brake line and the floor pan offered a nice hump where the knob hangs over so you can turn it. I had to drill two small holes in the floor pan for this though.

Now I can just stop the car, open the door, reach under and make an adjustment, then close the door and go again.
Click to expand...

So the knob is at 90 degrees, or upside down? I put mine in upside down so that I could reach it from the wheelwell, but I'm still getting weak brakes, and I thought it could be related to installing the valve upside down. I'm going to try and re-bleed the MC and the rest of the system before I remove the valve though - unless that is most likely to be the culprit.
 
65s said:
I put KH discs on my '65 S and plumbed a Mopar Performance/Wilwood adj. proportioning valve into the rear line, right under the driver seat. Not inside the passenger compartment, but outside under the floor. It seemed like a nice place to put it, easy place to cut the rear brake line and the floor pan offered a nice hump where the knob hangs over so you can turn it. I had to drill two small holes in the floor pan for this though.

Now I can just stop the car, open the door, reach under and make an adjustment, then close the door and go again.
Click to expand...

We did the same thing on my dad's chevelle. Super easy just spliced it into the rear brake line. There was already a hole in the frame/rocker where we wanted to put the valve under the door.

On my 66 it originally came with a single master and distr block. On my conversion I am using the original block and plumbing a new separate brake line from the rear master cylinder port to the adj valve to the rear wheels. This allows me to keep my original dist block and not have to spent $40 on a newer style duel master cylinder dist block. Not really an issue for you Goody, but for those of us with early mopars that came with single master cylinders this is the easiest way to go.
 
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