pole shed questions

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VDART

VDART

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ok time for a flame thread-- I've finally wore the wife down & we are planning next year to put a pole barn in the yard for my car hobby.

the reason for a pole shed is cost -- i can get the structure up & then add a concrete floor at a later date,, putting up a garage needs tons of concrete first & more $$
I've looked at Sutherland's & Menard's to get an idea-- but i have to check on codes to see what my restrictions might be.
I want at least 3 single garage doors & a man entrance on the south side.

my plan is to section off the south side into a work space for heat/comfort & the rest used for cars/lawnmowers /storage.
I'm looking for advice from actual users/experience on what would be the most cost effective way to approach this.

I have to clear 15 trees & a small lean 2 in the yard now
I think a 30x40 -- maybe x50?(cost)
also do not know what the ceiling requirements are for a lift-- but that would be a consideration.
Windows? 2nd man entrance?
Thanks Lawrence
 
Pour the concrete right away, you will put too much stuff in it to pour at a later date.
 
hey LAWRENCE!!! this topic was cussed and discussed under the " shop thread " stuff just recently by guy in Ga.
I know one thing, lumber costs went stupid last year or two. the many pole barn co, around here must not get screwed on their lumber,... like us the retail customer.
I bought some steel for frame connectors and patches other day at wholesale steel co. the guy in there said steel prices are fixing to go DOWN???? not sure if this will trickle down to the roof metal or not.
I can tell you one thing, no matter how big it is, will never be big enough!!
there are many pole barn builders around here, and very competitive. I can look up some various sizes by one co. that does a bunch.
I do know garage doors are stupid high! but what isn't??????
 
You going to insulate it? If so may want to give it some more thought....
 
insulate the south end (1 o/h door & man door)-- the rest not so much,
we have a local foam board company that throws sheets away-- that works great as insulation in shops.
 
I have a 30x40 foundation garage. Pole barn wasn't gonna work for me. The insulation is easier with a foundation garage. I put a small garage door on the back side for the yard tractor and such. That way they don't go by the cars. It won't be big enough. They never are!
 
is there a difference in quality say from menards/sutherlands vs morton type buildings?

I can use a Sutherland design program & custom make a kit for the way I want-- just starting to research .
 
Consider the grade and any fill that might be necessary.

That's screwing me right now.

I did exactly what you're talking about doing, and I need 6 inches of fill to get above the water level in bad storms.

Bigger problem is that will cause my ceiling to be too low.

I did a 26x30.

If you're considering a structure as large as 40x something, why not plan it in sections, and have 20X graded and slabbed, then add the other half later. After the grading and first section, you could even do the pole barn thing for the second half.
 
...the second most expensive "optional" part of mine was all the doors.

I saved a couple grand by buying and installing my own, rather than letting the shed company do it.

I also got 10 foot wide doors. HUGE difference versus 9" if there's any turning to be done on the approach, or you want to walk/carry/push/pull anything through the garage door with a car inside.
 
roof metal comes in 26 or 29 ga. there is a difference in the warranty in years. some guaranteed for 10 years, some much longer. talking about painted metal. then there is galvalume. metal can be installed with ring shank roof nails or screws. a small difference in cost of each and labor for each type.

if I remember your yard is pretty flat. I would guess a few loads of fill dirt or pea lime. yes the pole builders want a level spot. around here, generally roll insulation under the roof tin, more like a vapor barrier.

I would think about thick plastic under the concrete, or under gravel if you use that for the part that doesn't have concrete, to keep cold from the concrete and moisture from the gravel.

we have a lot of Menninite and Amish, they build a lot of barns and do excellent work. honest people too!
 
I built a 40x60 pole building with a 16x60 lean on one side two years ago. I insulated the lean last fall and heat for my shop. Floors were poured as soon as shed was up with foan insulation under the cement. I have added another16x60 lean on the other side for cold parts storage. I like the building and dont think would build it any different for my use. I agree with FISHYPETE with do the floor right away.
 
My friend just did a shed that is built different and he said was cheaper then a pole shed. It is built with 2x6 in 4 ft sections then the section are nailed together. It is set on a fondation and bolted down. I liked the design--easier to insulate and install a liner for the inside. If you need other info e mail back Jay
 
FISHYPETE said:
Pour the concrete right away, you will put too much stuff in it to pour at a later date.
Click to expand...

retractable said:
I built a 40x60 pole building with a 16x60 lean on one side two years ago. I insulated the lean last fall and heat for my shop. Floors were poured as soon as shed was up with foan insulation under the cement. I have added another16x60 lean on the other side for cold parts storage. I like the building and dont think would build it any different for my use. I agree with FISHYPETE with do the floor right away.
Click to expand...

Pete and Jay both have nice pole sheds, and they are right, pour the concrete right away.

When Pete built a 40x60' shed and he thought it was big enough...well, it's not (maybe I should get some of my cars out of it lol) I would go as big as you can afford cause it's going to fill up fast!
 
here is where it will go on my property, back ne corner of the lot. That green shed is roughly 8x28-- to give a scale.

I have roughly 25' to the back corner property line.
I want 3 o/h doors facing west nothing on the north or east side & then a man door on the south.
will make the south end the work area with a bench & beverage fridge.
Sutherlands has a shed 30x40 x10 for 7900-- this is a base-- but i'm just checking into it for now.
 

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Why 3 doors? That ttiples the cost of that wall, whereas one 16' door would suffice! Also, a metal roof with nothing under it is really loud when it's raining, I would suggest maybe a shingled roof! A lift usually requires a 12' ceiling! I would look into a package from one of the lumber yards near you that specialize in pole buildings, that's usually cheaper than packaging it up yourself! Windows would be nice to let in natural light, but aren't a must! It depends on what you're going to do inside! S it going to be a shop where you'll spend a lot of time in? If so you will need some ventilation to keep it cool in the summer! My shop is 30x40 and it gets really hot in the summer! My attached garage is 28x36 and stays nice and cool all summer long! Geof
 
That is why I'm asking questions now, I think I will eventually go into the lumber company & see what they can design. The 3 doors ? Thought it would be better than 1 huge door. I need to go touring some buildings
 
I'd use vaulted rafters with a foot of overhang
and only screws to assemble.
Its way cheaper to build it the way you want the first time
than to make do until you can afford it.
Make payments if you have to.
 
VDART said:
here is where it will go on my property, back ne corner of the lot. That green shed is roughly 8x28-- to give a scale.

I have roughly 25' to the back corner property line.
I want 3 o/h doors facing west nothing on the north or east side & then a man door on the south.
will make the south end the work area with a bench & beverage fridge.
Sutherlands has a shed 30x40 x10 for 7900-- this is a base-- but i'm just checking into it for now.
Click to expand...

Looks like you're putting lots of thought into the important things, lol, gotta have a fridge in there. Come to think of it, a microwave oven would be handy as well!
 
Right now is the brainstorming phase, I'm going to ask so local car guys & then try to come up with a shop that will work for me..
I'm already thinking a dual roof shed with a 12' section --just in case I ever put in a lift (get the funds).
I like the idea of the blown on roof insulation.
I want to have air flow so openings on all 4 sides will be needed(house fan in a side perhaps?)
I will want heat for winter shop time -- but do not want to heat the whole area.
I would like maximum strorage usage-- so shelving & access will be important.
 
A lot of use ful storage can be had by making a loft. My shop is 30'x60' and I have an area in my shop that is about 8'x30' with a loft above. There is only about 6' of headroom above and below, but great for storage. I vote for a loft!
 
My buddy runs the back counter at Sutherland's in Harrsionville, MO. If you have any questions about pricing or anything I'd be glad to give you his name and number. He's a straight shooter and I will use him to help with my garage when the time comes. Just shoot me a PM if needed.
 
another thing to consider, a little more height in a pole shed usually doesn't cost that much more. cooler is summer with more height. insulated windows are like $100 for a 3 x 5 double pane. blown in insulation is great, not cheap, but what is? with enough height, you can easily add lean to off the side if you want more space. ( nice to put the mower and ALL crap somewhere besides the car garage! a loft above your heated area, gives you a ceilng for that area, and a place to store parts not often needed.
over my life I've built 2 indoor arenas, like 60 x 100 and more than a few horse barns. my car garages were always made out of "what was there". except what I have now. it started out as a 14 x 28 lean to! and keeps getting added on to. LOL
I bought 3 12 ft 2 x 4's other day at Meeks. back in s. Ga, decades ago, the sawmills thru away better lumber than that I bought as their # 1 stuff, and the price???? what were they? $16? or something.. Ha such BS! good luck!!!!
 
I built a 40X72X14. I wish I had gone 48x72x14. It accommodated pretty much any lift I wanted. I have a 36" walk in door, 2- 12x10 roll up doors and 4 windows. I put my work area on the south facing end. I have a 4' space between the roll up doors that I have hung 2 blues tarps on high tensile wire to separate the shop into a work area and storage area. The tarps also hold heat in my work bay so I don't heat the entire shop, just where I'm working. I agree with the others, pour concrete before you start putting anything in the building. I would contact smaller contractors to do a turnkey job. My contractor started on a Monday and pulled off the job the following Thursday. There were 2-3 people working on it.
 
you guys are bringing up great ideas & more questions than answers---

I've got my work cut -out just to clear the space in that area. I've got vacation in march will try to start this (need to sell some cars also)
Lawrence
 
if ya (your) sell ya (your) cars to build the garage, then what will you put in the garage????? LOL

go to the bank and take a loan... they have plenty of $$$$$$ LOL

actually, trying to plan out a garage to have enough room, use space wisely, do under budget, etc. AIN"T easy. fun time but not easy!!!

I have a car friend up in n w Mo. I've known for decades. he built his garage back about 2004. as big as an indoor arena! like 60 x 150-200. yes he filled it full!! he built his "home" in one end of it. funny part was his wife wanted it that way. he wanted to build small log home. great woman!!
I have a horse trainer friend that moved here to Mo couple years ago. last winter he wanted a smallish indoor arena. like 60- 70 x 150. he studies pole and metal building for months before puling the trigger. he went with local mininite builder and an all steel building.
 
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