DusterKrazy
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Anybody have tips for polishing aluminum trim like headlight bezels??
Polishing trim...any tips??
- Thread starter DusterKrazy
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daredevil
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Check out this thread from our very own Waggin http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=58876&highlight=buffing
jamesdaytona
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That thread will tell you everything you ever wanted to know . If you have any remaining doubts , see if waggin wants some more business !
autoxcuda
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Aluminum is a little different than stainless. Usually an aluminum bezels need quite a bit of straightening. But aluminum is more workable than stainless on certain types of damage. The aluminum will get deeper nicks and get smashed and tweaked more.
You'll need to remove the bright dip type anodizing. It's called bright dip and it's different than clear anodizing. Remove the bright dip with Easy Off oven cleaner (Lye). It should take a few applications with scrubbing with brillo pads and/or steel wool.
You'll need to remove the bright dip type anodizing. It's called bright dip and it's different than clear anodizing. Remove the bright dip with Easy Off oven cleaner (Lye). It should take a few applications with scrubbing with brillo pads and/or steel wool.
autoxcuda
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The problem with these grille surround is there are so many road nicks that go pretty deep.
You can spot the deap one on the back side of the piece buy looking for outward bumps. You've have to clean/steel wool the inside to spot them. They are easier for me to see before you remove the anodizing. I pop the deep ones out with a rounded off punch. Most of the time with a $3 Harbor Freight Center Punch that I have grinded and polished the point to a bull nose. I pop them out. Then sand or file flat.
For instance, that nick on the upper left in the 3rd picture below later got popped out and sanded/files flat. And it was nowhere to be seen after polishing.
My other favorite tool is a Radiator Hose Pick to get in hard to reach areas. I don't use the point. I just use the side of the point. You don't hit it hard, it's just aluminum. Just multiple soft blows against a block of wood:
I like to file the straight pieces. The file becomes a "long board" and takes the waves from sanding and straighening out. The dull spot are the low spots. Really shows well in the 3rd picture below.
You can spot the deap one on the back side of the piece buy looking for outward bumps. You've have to clean/steel wool the inside to spot them. They are easier for me to see before you remove the anodizing. I pop the deep ones out with a rounded off punch. Most of the time with a $3 Harbor Freight Center Punch that I have grinded and polished the point to a bull nose. I pop them out. Then sand or file flat.
For instance, that nick on the upper left in the 3rd picture below later got popped out and sanded/files flat. And it was nowhere to be seen after polishing.
My other favorite tool is a Radiator Hose Pick to get in hard to reach areas. I don't use the point. I just use the side of the point. You don't hit it hard, it's just aluminum. Just multiple soft blows against a block of wood:
I like to file the straight pieces. The file becomes a "long board" and takes the waves from sanding and straighening out. The dull spot are the low spots. Really shows well in the 3rd picture below.
inkjunkie
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autoxcuda
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After staightening is done, filing, and heavy sanding I wet sand. You will probably see spot you missed and will go back a step. The wet sanding saves your sandpaper and you can see things quicker. I like to go 320, 600, 1000. And use a hard foam block.
Nice additions guys! Yeah, Curtis definitely knows his way around a buffer but I just talked to him a couple days ago (and can't speak for him of course) and from the sounds of things he seems to have his hands really full for quite awhile.
You aren't kidding autox! I've been there myself ...
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... but a whole lot of patience and the right tools will get you there. These are a combination of polishing and powder coating in factory style colors.
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You aren't kidding autox! I've been there myself ...
View attachment 019 - Copy.jpg
View attachment 060 - Copy.jpg
View attachment 067 - Copy.jpg
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... but a whole lot of patience and the right tools will get you there. These are a combination of polishing and powder coating in factory style colors.
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daredevil
Well-Known Member
I used a tip from here taking a 5 foot piece of gutter and siliconing end caps on to create a trough. All available at lowes reasonable.Then I use a drain cleaner water solution to strip the anodizing. Dont leave it longer than needed and rinse with fresh water. Works in 5 minutes or less usually.
daredevil
Well-Known Member
Damn girl those look good.
Thanks Pete! :-D I've got two more entire Cuda front grille assemblies here in line ... one's still attached to the front clip. LOL
Hey Steve, if you need to reconstruct your support brackets' mounting hardware, you can get suitable bolts and nuts at Fastenal. They're not cheap, but they work great. If you need part numbers or anything just let me know and I'll dig out my notes and hook you up.
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