Polyester Primers

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1BadDodge71

1BadDodge71

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Ive been painting for awhile,used regular 2k primers and epoxys and since Im starting the bodywork on my Duster,I was thinking about trying out one of the thick polyester primers like Evercoat G2,or Slicksand and wondering if anyone has ever used them?I know it requires a large spray gun needle(about 2.2 )
I may just go with a 2k catalyzed primer,but wanted to know if anyone has used this stuff and if you sprayed it directly to metal with good results.:read2:
 
Check the P sheet on them. I know I was doing some research on these Evercoat listed one that was corrosion resistant. That's what you want on bare steel. If you want you could spray an epoxy primer first then your poly primer for your corrosion protection. Poly primers are damn thick and sometimes can crack if you don't sand enough of it off. If you plan on using them I would consider board sanding it down very flat with 180, to get it really straight, then follow with a little 2k to fill those scratches.
 
In the past I have used Featherfill, but they changed the formula back in the late 80's and decided not to tell anyone until many people complained about it.
Needless to say I quit using it.

I currently use PPG Omni LV polyester primer MX245, DTM (Direct To Metal, No etch primer) and I'm very satisfied with the product.

On every car I restore, I use it. Then prime with 2K primer, usually K38.
 
I use 4+1 it is a direct to metal.It is a fairly new product haven't had any issues with it.Block it with 150 then 240 and 2k prime with jp202 ppg shopline.Both products are less than $100 each with all the fixins.I dp90 first,plastic repair,4+1,then 2k prime for a car that has been stripped.Spot work or rework I use the 4+1 instead of a glaze it air dries in 90 minutes to sand and seal over it.
 
i ve been using the 2g featherfill primer for a long while. i ve NEVER EVER had any problems with it and believe it or not you can spray it with a 1.4 tip. i bought a cheap gun from walmart and it sprays it nice at low pressure. i just put some on my demon yesterday. i usually use the grey colored featherfill, but i put black on it this time since i m planning on probably painting it black. i ve always put it on bare metal spots and had no problems whatsoever. i even asked my buddy at the paint store yesterday about it. he said it wasn t an issue, but he does recommend putting it on 80 grit or rougher scratches. i like it cause you can do the body work, prime it, and block it again with rough paper and prime it again. but i built 3 different hoods for 3 different trucks. used featherfill and sealed it with dplf epoxy, based it, cleared it, and they all still look great. they re all about 4-5 years old and are always out in the weather. GREAT STUFF.
 
first time using the black, but it sprayed nice.
 

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1BadDodge71 said:
thanks guys.
oh ok,so you cant topcoat it directly then,right?
You have to go over it with 2k ?
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You can topcoat it if you sand it with like 400, but I only go to 180 with polyester, then I always Put 2k primer over the top of it.
 
alleyoopmgv said:
You can topcoat it if you sand it with like 400, but I only go to 180 with polyester, then I always Put 2k primer over the top of it.
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oh ok,thanks

@evil340:That looks really good.I have a gun with a 1.8 tip.
Ive also heard people say it smells really bad,but then again ,what primer doesnt?I guess I can try it out.I just dont want any lamination problems or it falling off bare metal.Im on a budget and the car will be painted the original B1 Blue Sky blue using a single stage urethane and im going to black out the hood using Hot Rod satin black :)Time to get rid of the rattlecan job that was on it
 
alleyoopmgv said:
You can topcoat it if you sand it with like 400, but I only go to 180 with polyester, then I always Put 2k primer over the top of it.
Click to expand...

So do you only use it for the first round of blocking ? After you 2K what do you block that with and how many times will you re-prime and block.

When I did my Dart I only used 2K, I used 180 till i was pretty much dead straight, Re-primed and went 320, Then re-primed and went 400 wet, and 600 wet.
 
Sherwin Williams (it is Acme) Lays down nice with cheap gun, sands perfect with 3m paper.
Base coat; Just learned that Sherwin Williams uses Dupont pigments; Dupont uses Sherwin Williams solvents. No wonder they cost the same.
 
AdamR said:
So do you only use it for the first round of blocking ? After you 2K what do you block that with and how many times will you re-prime and block.

When I did my Dart I only used 2K, I used 180 till i was pretty much dead straight, Re-primed and went 320, Then re-primed and went 400 wet, and 600 wet.
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Regardless of the type of filler primer used I always used 180 to board sand. The faster you take a product off like filler or even primer the more straight the area will become. If you use too fine a grit all the board or block does is ride the humps. You need something that cuts. Then prime with a good 2k primer like PPG NCP primer to fill the sand scratch. I find that people tend to finish sand with too fine of a grit. 600 wouldn't be bad but some people suggest 800-1000 which is not a good thing. You are using mechanical adhesion from this point on and I usually finish with 400. You can actually get away with 320 orbital (not the best way to finish primer) or 400 straight. As long as you are using a good sealer like epoxy.
 
67Dart440GT said:
Regardless of the type of filler primer used I always used 180 to board sand. The faster you take a product off like filler or even primer the more straight the area will become. If you use too fine a grit all the board or block does is ride the humps. You need something that cuts. Then prime with a good 2k primer like PPG NCP primer to fill the sand scratch. I find that people tend to finish sand with too fine of a grit. 600 wouldn't be bad but some people suggest 800-1000 which is not a good thing. You are using mechanical adhesion from this point on and I usually finish with 400. You can actually get away with 320 orbital (not the best way to finish primer) or 400 straight. As long as you are using a good sealer like epoxy.
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The shop I was at use to do all our quick jobs with 320 on the D/A then paint. Never had problems, Not that I would do a car I cared about that way.
 
1BadDodge71 said:
yeah,sorta like Reface.
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Reface is a good product it can only be sprayed on bare metal and your previous body work. And you need a gun with at least a 2.0 to spray the stuff. I used it several times with a good out come. 2k primer on top of it when finished.
 
I like to use Epoxie first for the adhesion to bare steel, then while the epoxie is still in the recoat window (24hrs) spray the featherfill ( no sanding). I used a 1.8 tip and it sprayed great. Block with 150, then prime with 2K, then 320 dry, then 500 wet. guide coat between each step..
 
AdamR said:
So do you only use it for the first round of blocking ? After you 2K what do you block that with and how many times will you re-prime and block.

When I did my Dart I only used 2K, I used 180 till i was pretty much dead straight, Re-primed and went 320, Then re-primed and went 400 wet, and 600 wet.
Click to expand...

It depends really how much the customer is paying me, the more he wants to pay, the straighter his car gets. It could be one round of polyester and one round of 2k. It could be two rounds of poly and two rounds of 2k.

I don't like to post to much on these kind of threads, because everybody's way of doing things can be way different, not saying there way is the wrong way, I just know what works for me. I've been doing this for almost 25 years. I have had conversations with some of the top people (Chip Foose, etc..) in the business, and have got tips from them, and some tips I don't want to share! LOL!

But at least it's once with polyester, block with 150 or 180. Then it's a round of 2k primer such as K38 or K36 and blocked with 320. Then one more round of 2k primer, and then it gets wet sanded with 400
to 600 depending on color, 800 if it's black.

You do a very nice job on cars from what I have seen AdamR!
 
The amount of poly prime depends on how well the plastic work or metal work was done.A good rule is to prime until you have no major break through.Then use a good 2k to shell over the poly and finish sand with block or stick.You can finish your 2k in 400 as long as you are sealing with 2 coats min.I try not to use no more than one wet coat.600 hand sand for solid colors and 800 plus for metallics.DA you can cut that back a little but,don,t machine sand a custom overall.
 
So what your saying is you keep priming with poly till your not cutting through any large spots, Then off to 2K for your finish sanding ?
 
Yes,no more than 3 times max.If you need more you need to rework the substrate plastic work or metal work.I block my poly prime with 150 and finish with 240 just cut down the 150 scratches.
 
I never go more then 2 rounds of polyester, It's usually only 1 round (poly), then 2k primer. If you want a straight car, you never DA anything (bondo, primer, clear) nothing.
 
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