POR 15 vs. Epoxy

-
grassy

grassy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2009
Messages
5,352
Reaction score
86
Location
Nova Scotia
I want to clean the dirt off the bottom of my Duster...from what I have seen there is very little rust...it had been "grease and graphited" several times ...and if I do find some rust, I will sand blast or repair...I don't want to paint over..

I was pretty well settled on POR but doing some research, I am not so sure now. I am told epoxy is best while others tell me that tremclad or the same stuff , different brand from cantire/homedepot is a lot less expensive and just as good.

Any opinions ?

Thanks
Ian.
 
I used POR-15 once and was not impressed with the results or stability of the product. I have always used epoxy primer on bare steel and have had great results. Epoxy should be topcoated after using it, I liked using Eastwood's chassis black after epoxy. Here is a picture of how it turned out.
 

Attachments

  • sandblasted.jpg
    101.8 KB · Views: 452
  • painted.jpg
    106.5 KB · Views: 475
i hate Por15, somebody did the engine compartment on the cuda with that stuff. made painting it a extremely miserable experience....

plus i wasn't impressed on the stuff i've painted with it. its overrated!!
 
68 HEMI GTS said:
i hate Por15, somebody did the engine compartment on the cuda with that stuff. made painting it a extremely miserable experience....

plus i wasn't impressed on the stuff i've painted with it. its overrated!!
Click to expand...


I agree, and to add to that, the reason why I was sandblasting this area of the car is POR-15 was used by a previous owner that was actually falling off the car, peeling so badly you could lift several inch sections of it off.
 
POR 15 is not the best product out there. I've heard of KBS and that there product was like POR 15 on steroids. Don't forget that a good preparation of the area being painted will make a big difference in how durable it will be. Just curious though, has anybody tried painting the underside of there car with like a roll on box liner kit for trucks?
 
In my opinion POR-15 shouldnt be used at all if you plan to top coat. As with anything surface prep is key, POR-15 requires an aggressive surface prep or it will peel, painting it is almost a waste of time since it dries so hard nothing really takes and any time I have tried to scuff to apply primer it hasn't workrd out. They do sell a primer of sorts to top coat before painting I personally have never tried to top coat since I think it would be a big mess down the road. I have used POR-15 extensively on my jeep to cover rock rash and scuffs, it does do well for that, I have also done the wheel wells on the cuda but preped with 80 grit prior to application, it won't be going anywhere soon in my experience.
 
Wow I never heard people trash por15 so badly. Everywhere i went it was suggested.
 
I have used Por-15 on the bottom of my car, so far it has been a very good product. If you do not clean and prep the metal the way it suppose to done, it will not be right and you will have problems. I have taken and treated a peace on sheet metal, coated it with Por-15, and after it dried beat on both side of the metal with a ball peen hammer. The Por-15 never cracked anywhere. So I would say it is pretty good. Just my opinion.
 

Attachments

  • 15.jpg
    110.3 KB · Views: 374
Skip the POR15. Clean, clean, clean the underside and hit it with Epoxy primer then Raptor Liner. Epoxy is not a final coat
 
Prep is highly important and this is what I did with POR 1st time using:

Cowl, firewall, floorboards with no topcoat; covered with Eastwood sound deadener on top. I am going to do my wheel wells and frame next.

If not applied in indicated weather conditions, the finish will not be "glossy" but offers same protection. Who cares if the floors are glossy when covered up anyway which was my case.

There were other threads earlier this year on this debate.
 

Attachments

  • Sound 014.jpg
    123.8 KB · Views: 334
  • Sound 012.jpg
    88.1 KB · Views: 357
  • Sound 011.jpg
    145.5 KB · Views: 354
  • Sound 010.jpg
    123.9 KB · Views: 388
  • Sound 002.jpg
    104.7 KB · Views: 353
  • Firewall, Floorpans cleaning 009.jpg
    123.4 KB · Views: 312
if i gotta do that much prep on anything, its getting shot with a spray gun and a quality primer/paint.
 
Southern Polyurethane's Epoxy over sand blasted metal.

Those fellows know their chemistry (from what I have heard). They always have solid customer service and recommendations. The epoxy is very durable, I used it on a sand blasted hand truck a while back and am using it almost exclusively on my car.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN2019.jpg
    84.9 KB · Views: 294
  • DSCN2030.jpg
    89.2 KB · Views: 318
  • DSCN2042.jpg
    94.3 KB · Views: 289
POR15 is Terrible. Peels bad in time. Epoxy is the best if your going to do a finish coat. "Chassis Saver" is a good product for Rusted frames on trucks or rusted toys if you just want to slow down the rust. It is the same as POR15 but alot better lasts longer and can be left in the sun. I will never use POR15 on any part of any car ever again. What a waist of money.

I swore by it when it first came out and It made things so easy. But I was kicking my self in the *** years later when I had to redo a customers car. Rust-o-lium was better a least you could put more on when the rust came through. If it is not rusty POR15 will eventually fall off any other surface. and it does not stop rust, only hides it for awhile unless you paint over it which you cannot unless you top coat it with their other products.

And what do you do with the areas between the rust that have paint or you sand to bare metal. I called and I asked they had no answer except, their product is designed to apply over metal that was rusted only.
 
If anybody is interested I will fine out what EZ used on mine....think it was just Rustoleum....
 

Attachments

  • 100_0222.jpg
    98.8 KB · Views: 277
  • 100_0226.jpg
    74.1 KB · Views: 311
I have used POR15 on my Kframe and a few other pieces, this was my 1st time using it and the cuda isnt on the road, so I cant say what the durability is. But I will say it went on like glass and it took about a total of 2 tablespoons to do my entire kframe. No matter what you use, prep is key. Also POR15 is NOT UV resistant, at least thats what the label says.

Ink, that looks AMAZING!!
 
Bought 2-pac epoxy from UAP today..and a proper mask. the epoxy is gray. I have I think it is called body black..a gloss that I will spray over it. I was sold because the local store supports it and gave me ton of information.

I gather that the engine bay should not be black so I should be able to spray the car colour over it easily.

Again, thanks for the help.

Ian.
 
Yup you are right, the pictures I showed above were POR painted over bare metal... obviously the adhesion issue.
 
I am blessed with a car that doesn't have much or any rust. UAP was quite spectific that we not only be down to clean bare metal but also have a bit of an etch so the epoxy could grab onto it...once we scrape off all the grase and graphite, I will post pictures.

ian.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top