POWER AND SLICKs....with the 8 1/4 help

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1972
Dodge Challenger Rallye 3225
Dodge Charger Rallye 3325
Dodge Dart Sport 340 3205
Plymouth 'Cuda 3330
Plymouth Duster 340 3100
Plymouth Road Runner 3495
1973
Dodge Challenger Rallye 3155
Dodge Charger Rallye 3480
Dodge Dart Sport 340 3205
Plymouth 'Cuda 3235
Plymouth Road Runner 3525
1974
Dodge Challenger Rallye 3225
Dodge Charger Rallye 3565
Dodge Dart Sport 360 3330
Plymouth 'Cuda 360 3300
Plymouth Duster 360 3315
Plymouth Road Runner 3616
Dodge Charger R/T 3650


from mymopar.com
 
dont know what mine weighs but it has fiberglass hood, doors, fenders...and lexan , no interior and a smallblock, and a full cage.. been 6.90 in the 1/8th mile with non ported eddy heads and 830 cfm carb .... now got ported heads and dominator... should run 11's ....lol
 
Dusterboy those weight numbers are also with no options on the car weighed.

On a site named MyMopar why the heck would they list a 1972 Dodge Dart Sport 340??? Not only that but they say the weight of the 1972 models and 1973 models are the same. The 1973 models should be close in weight to the 1974 360 models due to the doors and bumpers weighing a ton...

Chassis set-up is a seriously important factor to your ET. It can make a big HP car slow and vise versa.

Your money would be a lot better spent on an 8 3/4 rear with the aftermarket retainer cups. Super strong and will last forever.
It'd be a shame if you get your 8 1/4 built (lots of $$$) and not be able to keep it together.

340srule what time does your car run? You were not very specific.
 
340srule said:
Hows that???...by the way you running 11.0's??...
Click to expand...

You missed the point. I was talking about all the bench racers that have never even had thier car at the strip. You know, the pro street, 2-4's through the hood, etc that you talk to at car shows. If you read my post, you know that I said my car may or may not run 11.99 at your altitude. It runs 12.7 with a 1.89 60'at 5800'. Sea level is a whole different ball game.
 
My car runs 11.0's@120 this also being a street car with full interior and 6 point bar,through the exhaust too..:mrgreen:
Oh by the way thats ALL MOTOR,no spray needed here...
 
The biggest problem you will encounter with the 8 1/4 is the 27 spline axles, they are the weakest link. You could have aftermarket axles made with 29 spline then use a suregrip out of a '97 up Mopar 8 1/4 being they are 29 spline.


Chuck
 
With roughly 1/3 tank of gas my Dart with a slant 6,904, small bolt 9 inch drum brakes all around and 7 1/4 was weighed at 3030 lbs at a local speed shop. Since then its lost 80 lbs from swapping to manual steering as well as removing the AC. However with a 318, 8 3/4s, heavier 4 wheel disk brake set up and spindles I am sure its a lot heavier now. Haven't had it weighed since then but I estimate the 318 probably added 40-50 lbs, spindles and brakes maybe 100 lbs and the rearend probably another 50 lbs. In theory my car would then be around 3150 lbs with 1/3 tank of gas.. maybe 3200 lbs full tank. My next engine/tranny will probably add another 200 lbs including the subframe connectors,rollcage ect ect but I plan to offset that with some lightening up in other places.
 
Heres one for you guys, I was told on a site that a small block v-8 weighs about the same as a /6 once you put on an aluminum intake and headers? Makes sense to me as that /6 has an enourmous bottom end. and 904. What do you guys think? Walt :read2:
 
To get back to the original question---- to get an 8 1/4 rear to live in an 11 second car, you'd need to do the same things as you would in an 8 3/4 or even a 9in rear BUT you'd still be dealing with the physically smaller size unit. Sure it'll probably live--for awhile-- but the specialty work & pieces you'd need to (probably) custom make simply wouldn't be worth it, IMO.Hunnt down a good 8 3/4 unitspend the extra money & be happy in knowing you did it RIGHT the first time. It costs no more money that way........
 
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