Power Front Disc to Manual Conversion

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GoodysGotaCuda

Mr. Goody
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Just looking for some comments, suggestions, tips on swapping my Power front discs for manual.

As it turns out I will need a new m/c, likely a brake booster as well to get the power brakes in my duster working. Thats about $100, and on top of that I don't really like the fact that braking is dramatically effected if the motor dies..you break it, run out of gas, etc. etc.

I've been offered the pushrod and retainer from a moparts member. The master cylinder is readily availible from any parts store.

As i understand it i will need to do the following.

Manual Disc Master Cylinder
Pushrod/Clip for manual brakes
Bend lines twords firewall some
Adjust the stop light switch

That sound about right? Only thing i've yet to quite understand is how the brake light switch would be adjusted for manual brakes.

THanks!
-Mike :thumblef:
 
For the sake of 100.00. (maybe cheeper) I would just get it fixed. (to me it's like going backwards) or you could end up with more problems. Just my thought...Brake light adjustment, no big deal. Look under your dash (upper end of brake pedel) you will see the switch. It's adjusted by uncliping the wire, then rotating the threaded switch either in or out.

One thing to watch for Mike, for (what ever you do) for this fix; is to recheck your front and rear "rubber" brake hoses. Quite often when systems are fixed any added pressures will boulge the hoses if their old or in ruff shape.

If it's not one thing it's another :wack:
 
I have manual brakes (was all drum, now is disc front/drum back) and seriously, any average guy or girl can stop my car without a problem. It's not hard. In fact, I think power brakes are just sloppy feeling and not necessary. Read Tom Condran's thoughts on it all at http://www.enbcom.com/cuda/tech/tom_condran.

If you think pedal effort will be too hard (seriously, it won't be...you'll have a nice pedal that you can actually FEEL) you can always swap in a 15/16" bore (1973-1976 power brake master cylinder) and that will make the pedal feel lighter, 20% lighter. Personally I like my brake pedal as hard as possible, and even with the regular 1 1/32" master cylinder and no booster I find the pedal is too light. I'd like to stiffen it up a little somehow. (1 1/16" master is the answer I guess).

In an old van I had the booster went and the brake pedal stuck to the floor! Boosters suck. Get rid of it now! Don't waste money on having it fixed or getting a new one.

(this is just my opinion)
 
65s said:
I have manual brakes (was all drum, now is disc front/drum back) and seriously, any average guy or girl can stop my car without a problem. It's not hard. In fact, I think power brakes are just sloppy feeling and not necessary. Read Tom Condran's thoughts on it all at http://www.enbcom.com/cuda/tech/tom_condran.

If you think pedal effort will be too hard (seriously, it won't be...you'll have a nice pedal that you can actually FEEL) you can always swap in a 15/16" bore (1973-1976 power brake master cylinder) and that will make the pedal feel lighter, 20% lighter. Personally I like my brake pedal as hard as possible, and even with the regular 1 1/32" master cylinder and no booster I find the pedal is too light. I'd like to stiffen it up a little somehow. (1 1/16" master is the answer I guess).

In an old van I had the booster went and the brake pedal stuck to the floor! Boosters suck. Get rid of it now! Don't waste money on having it fixed or getting a new one.

(this is just my opinion)
Click to expand...

I gotta agree. I really dont like the feel of my power discs on my 'Cuda. The booster isn't quite 100% there..but ever since i've owned it i havent liked them. My old dart had manual drums, i liked the pedal feel a lot more. So i have a chance to do it to the duster, i think i'd like to.

Thanks
-MIke
 
If you're trashing all of the old power stuff you might consider a new aluminum master cylinder. You can get one for around $100. They're NEW not rebuilt, and they work good. There's a drawing I believe on bigblockdart.com that shows dimensions on the adaptor bracket. Very easy to make. Its what I did on my duster. I'm very pleased with it.

don
 
dusterdon said:
If you're trashing all of the old power stuff you might consider a new aluminum master cylinder. You can get one for around $100. They're NEW not rebuilt, and they work good. There's a drawing I believe on bigblockdart.com that shows dimensions on the adaptor bracket. Very easy to make. Its what I did on my duster. I'm very pleased with it.

don
Click to expand...



Why would i want a aluminum one? What are the advantages? This is the Duster i picked up for $800 to make a daily driver. I'm trying not to do anything fancy to it really..

Thanks
-Mike
 
I have had a dart with manual and booster and now My Dart Has manual w/out the booster. I like it better w/out the booster!
Smokin.gif
 
As far as the Manual Disc Master Cylinder being readily availible from any parts store, I did not find this to be true for my 68 Barracuda. Don't let them try to sell you one for drum brakes.

The front and rear reservoirs are different sizes on disk cars for a reason. I had to go to MP brakes for a service replacement. I can’t even find a rebuild kit for my original one.
 
Alrighty i got my manual disc master cylinder. Pushrod is in the mail. Then ill be attempting to do this. Any suggestions on getting the booster off? Just from poking around under the hood, the m/c has 4studs to the booster, booster goes to a bracket with 4studs, bracket goes to the firewall with four studs. is that all i take off? and thats where the new m/c will go? where that bracket is to the firewall...

Thanks
-Mike
 
:thumblef: Well i got the old mastercylinder/booster out. New manual disc master cylinder is in, lines plumbed to it. Its in there loosely because idk if the m/c needs to come out to put the pushrod in, (anyone know). My pushrod will be here soon (in the mail). And i have some speed bleeders to put in so i can bleed it solo. Should be ready to go soon :thumblef:
 
Make sure you have the little rubber grommet/bushing that goes on the end of the pushrod, then into the back of the master cylinder. The master cylinder should have a slight little groove inside the back of the piston, where the rubber grommet will fit in snugly once it's on the end of the pushrod. This will keep the pushrod from falling out!

If the back of your m/c doesn't have the little groove inside the piston, then you've got an m/c for power brakes.
 
Ok, its been awhile since ive tinkered with the duster. ive been busy getting the cuda ready for mopars at the strip.

anyway, i just got the master cylinder in and the pushrod hooked up. I bought some speed bleeders so i can bleed the brakes without any help..of course the ones they say will fit on the site...dont fit :cwm10:

So for right now there is zero brake pressure, it will be a few days im sure before i can attempt to bleed them. its just i need to make sure if its normal or not for a non-bled setup to have no pressure. im sure theres a lot of air in there and its just compressing the air and not doing jack...right?

lol, i just need a 'yea thats normal' so its not bugging me :salut:

Thanks
 
Yeah, that's normal. Once you bleed them everything will be fine...and if not, you'll find the problem, fix it, then everything will be fine. Then you'll be so happy you did it all! There, feel better!?
 
65s said:
Yeah, that's normal. Once you bleed them everything will be fine...and if not, you'll find the problem, fix it, then everything will be fine. Then you'll be so happy you did it all! There, feel better!?
Click to expand...


lol, yep. It was going to bug me. :salut:
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
As far as the Manual Disc Master Cylinder being readily availible from any parts store, I did not find this to be true for my 68 Barracuda. Don't let them try to sell you one for drum brakes.

The front and rear reservoirs are different sizes on disk cars for a reason. I had to go to MP brakes for a service replacement. I can’t even find a rebuild kit for my original one.
Click to expand...

From the Advance Auto web page. Manual Disk front, drum rear;

Cardone Rebuilt p/n 101573 $19.88
Bendix Rebuilt p/n R11627 $19.88
Bendix New p/n 11627 $61.48
Raybestos New p/n MC36412 $136.99

Trick is don't look up a Barracuda or any 67-72 a-body. Look for a 73-76 Dart. I always ask for a generic A-body part under the Dart model.

FWIW, I got mine from Autozone. FENCO Rebuilt p/n M1627 for $21.99
 
thank you 65 s
your site was a great help (tech/tom condram).
greetings from germany
Moritz
 
Anyone have the fun of disconnecting the pushrod from the pedal while twisted up under the dash? Cost me chiropratic money!! Now I have to get under there again to put the rod in place of the power one. Maybe I'll remove the drivers seat this time. DUH!
 
Mike, you may have better luck with your Duster, than 1968formulas340 and I had getting the right m/c. I ordered all of the part #`s that Dave listed earlier and for one reason or another they weren`t right. The first and last #`s he listed are equal size reservoirs and the 2nd and 3rd do not have a place to bolt the piston retainer.This may be for use with a booster? There is also a 11487 in many brands, and even though it says it has two unequal size reservoirs will likely come with equal size reservoirs. I still have yet to find ,the right one for my car. I hope your luck is better!
 
I put a new 85 5th Ave master on my 73 Dart with a four to two bolt adapter. I have a leak on one of my lines, but despite that, the pedal feel is still great.
 
I don't know what's going on with your parts guy's Longgone, but Dave and I both got the Fenco M1627 rebuilts and they fit great. The retainer clip is installed and the rubber grommet is also installed. You just have to dig it out and install it on the pedal rod.

Kevin. It is much easier to disconnect the push rod from the pedal and then take the master right off of the car. Then remove the rod from the master.

Jack
 
Yeah , I`ve not had much luck getting the right m/c for my car. The 1627 I ordered didn`t even have the bolt holes for the plunger retainer? I don`t know why I can`t get the right one. I believe a 11487 was supposed to be the exact replacement and according to the parts stores photos, it was a perfect match, but when it arrived it had equal size reservoirs. I ordered a second one of the same # just to make sure it wasn`t boxed wrong, and it too arrived with equal size reservoirs.3 other part #`s/orders yielded similar results. Finally I resigned myself to use it ,(the11487) because I HAD to have good brakes ,but I`m not exactly sure I`ll keep it.I`m going to continue the search. I think all the good m/c`s must be in Canada!
 
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