Pre 1970 A/C compressor brackets

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512Stroker

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With no luck, I have been trying to find A/C compressor brackets that will apply a Sanden compressor to my pre 1970 SBM. I wish to retain the factory pulley arrangement.
Has anyone done this?
Thanks in advance for any info

Jim K
 
Vintage air? Classic Industries has them from "70 and up. The only difference is the cast pump is 3/4" shorter. Have to find different brackets for alt and ps pump?
Not sure on the pulleys. If you have a/c, why do you want to change out the V-twin?
 
Vintage air? Classic Industries has them from "70 and up. The only difference is the cast pump is 3/4" shorter. Have to find different brackets for alt and ps pump?
Not sure on the pulleys. If you have a/c, why do you want to change out the V-twin?
I do have factory A/C, the old RV2 compressor is wore out. It never worked that well after it was converted to 134A.
The car is no where near stock, just wanting to upgrade to a more efficient compressor and keep my stock pullies and brackets as they work well and I really dont want to swap them out.
Hope that make sense.
 
I will be going through the same thing with my '72. I'm just going to replace the the compressor with a reman. I happen to have R12. Having said that, I know people with the same system using 134 with no problems. Clean the system, replace the drier filter and get a reman compressor and you don't have to go through all of the trouble switching? They do say the 134 is harder to keep in the system if you don't upgrade to new hoses.
 
I have a mid-late 80s setup that came on the 360 I bought might have some xtra brackets problem is you have to use correct intake or compressor won't work I did have a sanden on it I run r-134

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Just my opinion, but I don’t really see what is to be gained by going to a Sanden. My RV2 factory air system works great on R134. Seems like a lot of cost and trouble without a lot of gain.I bet a new compressor, dryer& expansion valve would fix you right up.
 
Was just watching an old episode of Garage Squad, they put a Sanden compressor on a factory A/C car, sounds like they had to get a non A/C set of pulleys. I would still go with a reman V-twin, nothing wrong with it.
 
It not really the Sanden is more efficient, that is an old wives tail that has gone around forever much like the old hoses will leak R134 (they don’t). The real difference is the RV2 take more HP because it pumps a lot more than the Sanden. The only thing the Sanden gives you is a weight advantage. Also you will go through multiple Sandens and the RV2 will still be pumping.
 
Did you look at Bouchillon Performance Engineering's site? I recall they have brackets for 1970 small-block ~$250.
 
I changed to a 71 ac setup on my 69 cuda. It is much simpler & works good, but what an ordeal.
I had to change all the pulleys brackets & water pump.
Needed new power steering brackets. The ps pump high pressure hose then conflicted with the biscuit motor mount. Had a custom ps hose made.
Had to get a double pulley alternator.
The the water pump bottom outlet is on the other side.
New radiator to fix that.
The aluminum water pump is about 3/4 inches wider than the 69 & back cast one. Had to get a shorter fan clutch.

Turned out ok after massive money, time & frustration. Wouldn’t do it again.
 
It not really the Sanden is more efficient, that is an old wives tail that has gone around forever much like the old hoses will leak R134 (they don’t). The real difference is the RV2 take more HP because it pumps a lot more than the Sanden. The only thing the Sanden gives you is a weight advantage. Also you will go through multiple Sandens and the RV2 will still be pumping.

So a compressor with two small pistons moves more refrigerant that a compressor with six similarly sized small pistons?

RV-2 uses 12 HP @ 2000 RPM with typical head pressures
SD-7 uses 3.5 HP @ 2000 RPM

The RV-2 vibrates because basically it's a V twin like a Harley..

The SD-7 is a swash plate design it runs smooth, virtually no vibration...
 
VintageAir has what you need. Go to their website, top bar that says instructions, click on that and then scroll down to Mopar engines. 161004, it will show you how it's installed. I have one, but yet to be installed. It shows that it moves the alternator to the drivers side. I saw one once, the owner had left the alt on the pass side. And you don't have to use the Sanden shorty compressor like you do on the Bouchillon bracket.
 
VintageAir has what you need. Go to their website, top bar that says instructions, click on that and then scroll down to Mopar engines. 161004, it will show you how it's installed. I have one, but yet to be installed. It shows that it moves the alternator to the drivers side. I saw one once, the owner had left the alt on the pass side. And you don't have to use the Sanden shorty compressor like you do on the Bouchillon bracket.
I called Vintage Air they no longer produce a pre 1970 SBM A/C kit due to "problems"
 
Is there a reason why you don't want to put a stock compressor back on? It can't be the weight or HP thing. They worked just fine then, they work just fine now.
 
I changed to a 71 ac setup on my 69 cuda. ...
Same "mistake" on my 1965 Dart 273. At the time ~2008, I was a newbie and didn't know how to find parts on ebay and cl, so went to Autozone. I needed a new radiator since the OE upper tank had been attacked by the fan blades, and all they could source was for a ~1972 with lower outlet on pass side plus likely for a slant since 1.5"D lower tube (but not tilted) and the alum w.p. with inlet on pass side was $30 vs $60 for the cast-iron, so did that. Didn't know the alum w.p. end is ~1" further out plus no brackets to fit my TRW p.s. pump to it, so had to get a Federal pump and brackets which almost hits the K-frame. Had to rearrange belts since my 1965 crank damper locates the crank pulleys different axially than later engines. I just posted how I fabb'ed brackets for a Sanden compressor, leveraging one from a ~1989 RamVan.
 
... It can't be the weight ...
You sure? Mopar installed thicker torsion bars on cars with factory AC. My 1965 Dart 273 was even worse with a Tecumseh after-market compressor which is like a York but in cast-iron. Perhaps a dealer mod, but AC conversions were also common in the late 1960's by Sears, K-mart, and Western Auto. That beast was installed with the thinner non-AC torsion bars. So heavy that the bracket cracked. I sold the Tecumseh to a guy who would convert to an offroad air compressor, as people do with York AC compressors.
 
If I understand this correctly, he already had factory A/C.
 
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