Ok, so I have a Duster w/360. I have not run it for a long time. Before storing it I sprayed Fogging Oil in all of the cylinders through the spark plug holes. Time to get it running! I bought a priming tool for the oil pump. If I prime it, will the bearings get coated properly. Would it make sense to pull the oil pan off and spray oil all over, including the bottom of the cylinders? Also, for the top end I was thinking about taking the Intake off and pouring oil all over everything (cam lifters ext.) I want to go a little over board to try and lube everything. What do you guys think? Thoughts?
Priming (oil) 360
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remytherat
Well-Known Member
Just fill it up with fresh oil and prime it while cranking it by hand. It will be fine.
What's "A LONG TIME?"
Clean oil and filter as mentioned.
Have one person with a socket wrench turn over the engine as another runs the drill for the pre lube.
Take plugs out for easier turn over.
7-8 revolutions of the crank and your fine. You’ll know your pumping oil by how hard the drill will buckle down.
It’s more than some do- engine will thank you for sure.
Have one person with a socket wrench turn over the engine as another runs the drill for the pre lube.
Take plugs out for easier turn over.
7-8 revolutions of the crank and your fine. You’ll know your pumping oil by how hard the drill will buckle down.
It’s more than some do- engine will thank you for sure.
You can tell if it's primed by the drill. It will load down heavily. If not, remove the filter and put a pan under. It should prime in about 1 second. Maybe 2. Then pre-fill and re-install the filter
The cam has holes which must be lined up to pass oil to the top end. That is why someone above said turn the crank. If you can, you can index the crank so once oil is flowing to one side, you can stop there rotating, but then a bit later, rotate so the opposite head gets oil.
I would add some oil to the cylinders to lube the rings. Crank it over with no plugs a bit.
The cam has holes which must be lined up to pass oil to the top end. That is why someone above said turn the crank. If you can, you can index the crank so once oil is flowing to one side, you can stop there rotating, but then a bit later, rotate so the opposite head gets oil.
I would add some oil to the cylinders to lube the rings. Crank it over with no plugs a bit.
I'd prime it with a priming tool and bust that bad boy off. It'll be fine.
And don't get carried away throwing gas down the carb throat or starting fluid. You can wash down already nearly dry rings and walls and end up with not much compression to start.
LOL!!! If you have some fresh 2 stroke gas, use that
LOL!!! If you have some fresh 2 stroke gas, use that
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
If the cylinders are full of flogging oil, take all the plugs out and rotate the engine by hand a few times. If you don’t it could hydraulic on the starter. Then put fresh oil and filter on/in and prime it, rotating the engine by hand for “a while” you can pull the valve covers and see when/if the top end is oiling. When it is, you can be sure the whole engine has oiled, including the bearings in the bottom end, and the lifters/cam. Also you’ll see pressure on the gauge. Button it all back up, fill the carb through the vent tubes and twist on the ignition stick. Fire in the hole!
Question, so when I start priming with the drill, will oil pump from the oil pump and saturate the crank and bearings right away. It could take some turning of the Crank to get it up top. I get that. I'm trying to figure out if I spin the drill for a minute will the Crank get lubed right away before any movement.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
As soon as it makes oil pressure the bearings will have oil.
i'm with @TT5.9mag on his method. yoink the plugs, shoot some slick stuff down the holes and turn it over a few times nice and easy by hand. R&R the oil and filter and then prime while turning nice and slow several times around. if you're feeling frisky you could pull the valve covers and confirm oil to the top end, otherwise just give a hairy eyeball to the gauge.
fill the bowls, dribble a tiny bit down the throat. i like to light it off with a remote starter from under the hood just in case something wants to run away on me i've got eyeballs right there and can *hopefully* catch it with the quickness.
good luck man!
fill the bowls, dribble a tiny bit down the throat. i like to light it off with a remote starter from under the hood just in case something wants to run away on me i've got eyeballs right there and can *hopefully* catch it with the quickness.
good luck man!
Thanks, that was my question.
Cal Tonsley
Well-Known Member
Yes, best to prime and get pressure first before turning to get oil to the top end.
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TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Do tell.
Brought it up to TDC,and went to drop the oil pump drive gear back in and its not dropping all the way down.Pulled it out and twisted it in different directions still not dropping all the way down,Should I rotate the crank back and forth a little? What do you guys think...
the end of the shaft probably isn't indexing the pump correctly. use the priming rod to move the socket of the pump a CH one way or the other and it should plunk right down.
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