Pro Touring cars who has one and can you post up some pictures and tell a little about it?
Pro Touring Cars
- Thread starter Old Tired Rebel
- Start date
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blue440duster
Well-Known Member
TOTALLY Love the Pro Touring Wagons.....Checked one out at the Hot Rod power tour at metro beach(Detroit stop) a couple years ago it had a SRT8 drivetrain and A/C guy said he drove it everywhere with no worries
the thought of having an older favorite with the reliability of a new car may have me go in that direction with the next project, Maybe even in a ratrod kind of patina
This is Not the one I saw but one I pulled of the net when I went home.
the thought of having an older favorite with the reliability of a new car may have me go in that direction with the next project, Maybe even in a ratrod kind of patina
This is Not the one I saw but one I pulled of the net when I went home.
That is what me and the wife was talking about being able to travel in a reliable car without new car payments
Riddler
Project EH-Body
Check the members builds section...
Hemi Denny
Tincup
76orangewagon
Lots of them on here. Lots on the hemi forum as well.
Riddler
Hemi Denny
Tincup
76orangewagon
Lots of them on here. Lots on the hemi forum as well.
Riddler
I'll see if I can post some updated pics of my cuda/duster.
Thanks Ray that is what I am looking for is pictures
USCG CHARGER
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2007
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My dart had a forged SRT 6.1 with kenne bell supercharger.. I only ran it on pump gas and made over 700 to the wheels.. I drove it on a 400 mile road trip one wkend. I would have drove it more if it had ac.
That was a beautiful car you built
Anyone else here have a pro touring car? I would like to know how they handle over stock suspensions
magnumdust
Well-Known Member
I'm in the middle of doing a duster, but i've yet to tackle the handling aspect. Getting my engine/tranny headaches out of the way first.
Are you going to change your K Frame or weld it up?
magnumdust
Well-Known Member
I'm not entirely sure what you mean. Do you mean am i gonna guy a re-enforced K-frame or seam weld the old one? Or are you talking about a K-frame swap to a coilover setup?
Either way:
My K-frame is seam welded. When i had to yank it out to change the steering box(broken bolt) I had my buddy seam weld it. However, that said i'm not sure if i'm gonna stay with a T-bar setup.
I didn't know if you were going with XV Motorsports,Alterkation of just modify your k frame
johnparts
Slammed 1
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=95904
My build thread. I don't have any new stance pictures but hopefully in the next couple weeks I will have her on the ground to snap a few.
My build thread. I don't have any new stance pictures but hopefully in the next couple weeks I will have her on the ground to snap a few.
:glasses7:
Great looking Duster!!
Keep us posted.
What do you guys do for chasis reinforcement? There must be established ways to weld in bracing, etc, right?
magnumdust
Well-Known Member
yeah still up in the air at the moment. If the keisler tko goes in easy, i may just stick with torsion bars, a borgeson steering box and hotchkis suspension.
magnumdust
Well-Known Member
JMO, but look at the hotchkis mopar cars. They just use the typical sub-frame connectors for bracing.
dwire67
Well-Known Member
I turned my Duster from a Drag car into one, 2 years woth of work all done by myself. I am process of doing the interior right now.
Has QA1 12 way adjustable shocks on all 4 corners, sub frame connectors, torque boxes welded in, front firewall to front frame bars from Magnum Force along with their upper control arms and the rest is all Hotchkis.
I also switched from a auto to a 4 speed and teh Trans was done by Jamie Passon and it is slick shifted.
Has QA1 12 way adjustable shocks on all 4 corners, sub frame connectors, torque boxes welded in, front firewall to front frame bars from Magnum Force along with their upper control arms and the rest is all Hotchkis.
I also switched from a auto to a 4 speed and teh Trans was done by Jamie Passon and it is slick shifted.
I am reading your thread here.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=126525&highlight=frame
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
You're in norcal no?
gtmopar
Phuckin A!
You in Fairfield? Looks like my buddy Todd's shop off western street. We work out of a shop across from there. If its not it looks exactly like it.
autoxcuda
Well-Known Member
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- Apr 6, 2007
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ENGINE (as of 3/27/2011...)
•SHORT BLOCK: ‘69 340 block, now .030 over. Scat 4" stroker cast crank kit from Brian @Indio Motor and Machine.
•BLOCK MODS: Oil passages smoothed and ported to reduce turbulence/cavitation and help flow. Valley smoothed and cleaned up to help oil drain-back. Water jackets/passages meticulously picked clean of rust and slag.
•OIL PUMP: Melling high volume. Passages smoothed and matched to rear main cap.
•HEADS: Edlebrock. Ported, intake and exhaust matched, combustion chambers matched to block,
•VALVE COVERS: Old Cal Custom finned ($40 swap meet) with steel core MP gaskets for good no leak and removable seal
•CAM: Comp 274S soild. .502/.511, 236/242 @.050
•ROCKERS: Comp Pro Magnum steel rollers.
•INTAKE: Mopar M1 Single plane, changed to squared carb flange, cleaned up plenum, port matched, indexed to heads.
•CARB: Demon Silver Claw 750 cfm advertised. Firesleeve on pump to carb 3/8" fuel lines
•FUEL LINE: 3/8" sender and 3/8" body fuel line. Firesleeve near headers.
•IGNITION: MSD E-Curve distributor
•OIL PAN: Milodon Road Race/Pro Touring pan developed by Milodon from this project!
•Windage Tray: Milodon with Milodon main stud kit
•BOLTS AND STUDS: Milodon Made in USA all in house. Heads, Mains, Oil Pan
COOLING SYSTEM:
•WATER PUMP: Milodon aluminum
•RADIATOR: Champion 4 core
•T-STAT: Milodon brass 160 degree
•FAN CLUTCH: Hayden #2765 (short 3 5/16" mounting)
•FAN : MP shortened
•FAN SHROUD: Custom foam sealed
•FLUID: Reverse Osmosis water, 2 bottles Justice Brothers Radiator Cooling System Protectant with water pump lubricant, 1 bottle Justice Brother Super Radiator Cooler
EXHAUST
•HEADERS: TTI great ground clearance. Port matched, ceramic coated outside, thremal barrier coating inside. Best quality.
•EXHAUST: TTI X-pipe with Super Turbos 2 1/2"
TRANSMISSION
•TRANS: 727 Torqueflite, TCI shift kit, Type F fluid, will hold gear, can downshift, bang-screech
•SHIFTER: Worn beat-up B & M Quicksilver that came with car, ratchet action, sometimes a pain
•CONVERTER: 2600 stall and fins modded to get some engine braking.
•TRANS COOLER: All hard lines. 10x6".
REAR END
•REAR END: 8 ¾ Sure Grip 3.23:1
BODY
•WEIGHT: 3350 lbs without driver and old motor with steel rims on a Grain Scale. Be careful referencing to cars that have not been on a scale
•COUPE BODY STYLE: less rear flex, less weight , less weight in rear ( good and bad ), A body Cuda's have very good tire clearences all the way around as compared to other A bodies.
•Future plans: Battery relocated to rear, ABS plastic front air dam modified from another car.
SUSPENSION
•TORSION BARS: 1.14" 320 Lb./ft wheel rate stock .87" 109 Lb./ft, livable, pretty stiff, Hotchkis shocks were key to taming them.
•REAR SPRINGS: Hotchkis. Weigh less that stock.
•FRONT SWAY BAR: Hotchkis 1 1/4" hollow
•REAR SWAY BAR: Hotchkis adjustable ¾" dia. hollow
•SHOCKS: Hotchkis Bilstiens
•STRUT RODS: Hotchkis tubular with heim ends. Precision articulation. Can set for nice bind-free LCA up and down movement. Holds poly LCA bushing against K-frame
•A-ARMS: Hotckis Tubular. Able to dial in any caster desired.
•SUBFRAME CONNECTORS: Hotchkis
•73-76 K-member: reinforced
•STEERING STEERING GEAR: Replacement Mopar remanufactured. Large steering gear spline, crisp, firmer, but not Firm Feel
•PITMAN, IDLER, CENTERLINK: all ‘73-‘76 A-body, to accept large spline gear, Moog parts
•POWER STEERING PUMP: Saginaw with rear oriface drilled out 1/64 larger. The other Mopar pump will not keep up with rapid steering input and are generally poor.
•POWER STEERING FLUID: Justice Brothers heavy duty, don't change often, so extra cost is cheap assurance
•POWER STEERING CAP: later style multi knobbed style with rubber baffle to stop spitting up.
•Future plans: Adding factory power steering cooler, in-line filter, and braided lines for power steering .
BRAKES
•PADS: Discontinued Mopar Police Spec Semi Metalic units ($15 swap meet score)
•DISKS: 11.75" dia junkyard single piston disks
•BRAKE LINES: braided, w/banjo on caliper end for rear caliper placement
•BRAKE FLUID: Justice Brothers High Performance Dot 4
•MASTER CYLINDER: Mopar Performance alum. 2 bolt, 1-1/32" bore, firm immediate pedal, feels great, not for your grandma. Started with manual drums. Thicker master cly adapter to adj. pedal height down. Be aware of pushrod length.
•PROPORTIONING VALVE: Willwood adjustable, had drum brakes so need some proportioning valve
•DRUMS: vented "bell or hat" drums for cooling
•REAR AXLES: 4 ½" bolt redrilled pattern
•Future plans: AREngineering Brembo 13" dia or similar Willwood, brake ducts
WHEELS
•15x9 4 1/4" backspace Optima Minilites (needed front fender lipping/bending) 245/50/15 BFG Comp T/A's ZR all around. (That size is totally discontinued)
Future plans:17x9 with 275/40/17 all the way around
INTERIOR
•STEERING WHEEL: LaCarra 15" padded leather, better grip, small dia. gives more responsive feel ($30 never installed swap meet score)
•SEATS: Scat Rallyes seats (new in box from swap meet)
View attachment JacksonCaliforniatrip11243(Medium).JPG
View attachment JacksonCaliforniatrip11280(Medium).JPG
johnparts
Slammed 1
Rethought some of my build off of Info I learned with this thread.
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