Procomp electronic connecting rods ?

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MOPARMAGA

MOPARMAGA

" The other hard member"
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Okay, I've been all over the internet looking for reviews on some rods I bought. Im looking for any mopar guys or gals who may have 1st hand experience.
1 thing I checked besides generic rod bolts is these rods are nice, nicely machined, the measurements are dead on spec. I plan on buying L-19 arp bolts. They're packaged exactly the same as eagle rods (cardboard box & plastic bags) the only difference I see is the eagles & scat are more expensive because they use real rap bolts & they're names are on the rod which add another cost
 
yellow rose said:
Before you scrap the bolts, car ARP and ask them about the bolts. They know which companies actually buy bolts from them, and they can tell you if they are legit ARP bolts.
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Yeah, they didn't attempt to forge arp logo.
They are also missing the thread side recess for measuring stretch. They're common 1.600 × 7/16 and ive had them apart, if theyre chinese junk as well theyre decent but who knows the procedure in prosuction. But like I said in the original post, I cant tell the difference between these or scat-eagle rods.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Yeah, they didn't attempt to forge arp logo.
They are also missing the thread side recess for measuring stretch. They're common 1.600 × 7/16 and ive had them apart, if theyre chinese junk as well theyre decent but who knows the procedure in prosuction. But like I said in the original post, I cant tell the difference between these or scat-eagle rods.
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The rod forgings most likely come out of the same forge as Scat, Eagle and a number of other names.

I bought some rods and they look just like anything else. A bit tight on both ends, but that’s they way I like it so I can set my sizes where I want them.
 
It's not so much the forge they came out of, but the quality of the material that went in.
I don't trust Procomp anything any more after a few dealings with their products and service.
 
TrailBeast said:
It's not so much the forge they came out of, but the quality of the material that went in.
I don't trust Procomp anything any more after a few dealings with their products and service.
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That’s what I’m saying. Most of the chink rods come out of two factories. They just get shipped to different companies here to be machined and go into their own boxes.

They are all the same, as long as the rod bolts aren’t ARP knock offs. I’m still not sure why guys complain about the ends being undersized. I’d much rather be able to finish the notes to the size I want, than have someone machine then to a bigger size than I need. Then you have to cut the cap/rod to resize a brand new rod. If they miss on the pin end, and it’s too big, then you are putting new bushings into a new rod.
 
TrailBeast said:
It's not so much the forge they came out of, but the quality of the material that went in.
I don't trust Procomp anything any more after a few dealings with their products and service.
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What products have you had problems with? If you look closely at most of the rods under $600, it's pretty easy to see the only price difference is in rod bolts.
 
yellow rose said:
That’s what I’m saying. Most of the chink rods come out of two factories. They just get shipped to different companies here to be machined and go into their own boxes.

They are all the same, as long as the rod bolts aren’t ARP knock offs. I’m still not sure why guys complain about the ends being undersized. I’d much rather be able to finish the notes to the size I want, than have someone machine then to a bigger size than I need. Then you have to cut the cap/rod to resize a brand new rod. If they miss on the pin end, and it’s too big, then you are putting new bushings into a new rod.
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People want everything to be a direct bolt on & probably don't understand clearance thomas
 
MOPARMAGA said:
What products have you had problems with? If you look closely at most of the rods under $600, it's pretty easy to see the only price difference is in rod bolts.
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Mostly their electronics, but the quality and customer service with those things alone would make me not trust their rods.
 
yellow rose said:
That’s what I’m saying. Most of the chink rods come out of two factories. They just get shipped to different companies here to be machined and go into their own boxes.

They are all the same, as long as the rod bolts aren’t ARP knock offs. I’m still not sure why guys complain about the ends being undersized. I’d much rather be able to finish the notes to the size I want, than have someone machine then to a bigger size than I need. Then you have to cut the cap/rod to resize a brand new rod. If they miss on the pin end, and it’s too big, then you are putting new bushings into a new rod.
Click to expand...

Speaking of rods, did you happen to see this video?
Apparently a "Race 340".
The guy gets down to pulling the pistons and rods and finds some rods I have never seen before.
BIG A** BEEFY aluminum rods at about 5.20 in the video.
Says he is going to replace them with iron, and I had to wonder exactly how he was going to go about it. (like balancing issue's)

 
TrailBeast said:
Speaking of rods, did you happen to see this video?
Apparently a "Race 340".
The guy gets down to pulling the pistons and rods and finds some rods I have never seen before.
BIG A** BEEFY aluminum rods at about 5.20 in the video.
Says he is going to replace them with iron, and I had to wonder exactly how he was going to go about it. (like balancing issue's)

Click to expand...


Jed Scott, SCOTT'S Speed SHOP. You'd be surprised, a SCAT I-beam rod is probably lighter than those M/Ts, or close anyway!
 
TrailBeast said:
Mostly their electronics, but the quality and customer service with those things alone would make me not trust their rods.
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Yeah, I'm hesitant but after seeing a "trusted" brand (eagle) have the same packaging & quality which is decent & only difference is the rod bolts I'm less hesitant.
Also they must sell enough con rods to keep producing them & I have yet to hear or see a broken procomp rod. There's all kinds of things that can go wrong with electronics. With a rod that is x-rayed, magnafluxed & shot peened 4340 forged just like more expensive rods.
 
Video link is not working but i had a set of worn out Bill Miller 426 AL rods and they were HUGE! Im suprised they fit but they have to be big as AL is not as strong as steel in volume. I gave them to a gearhead friend and he polished them and uses them as tap handles in his mancave bar. Guy has stainless derby headers on his BBQ/smoker!
 
pishta said:
Video link is not working but i had a set of worn out Bill Miller 426 AL rods and they were HUGE! Im suprised they fit but they have to be big as AL is not as strong as steel in volume. I gave them to a gearhead friend and he polished them and uses them as tap handles in his mancave bar. Guy has stainless derby headers on his BBQ/smoker!
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That would be a bad *** set up!
By the way, if I get your meaning. I know I'm right too
 
TrailBeast said:
Speaking of rods, did you happen to see this video?
Apparently a "Race 340".
The guy gets down to pulling the pistons and rods and finds some rods I have never seen before.
BIG A** BEEFY aluminum rods at about 5.20 in the video.
Says he is going to replace them with iron, and I had to wonder exactly how he was going to go about it. (like balancing issue's)

Click to expand...

Oh yeah I talked to Jed about that, I think he has some old ideas
 
If the rod measures good I would run it. If ur gonna change the bolts and resize the rods u may as well just bought a better set. Kim
 
oldkimmer said:
If the rod measures good I would run it. If ur gonna change the bolts and resize the rods u may as well just bought a better set. Kim
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Yeah, I am looking at molnar 6.70 rods & thinking of offset grinding a 383 crank to 3.50 stroke just to get the compression up on a stockish 400. Still seeing if there's an off the shelf piston or close. Thanks for your reply
 
U can use a .020 over 440 piston with the 5.35 rod if staying stock stroke. A .060 440 piston will be .040 400 size. Pick ur compression ratio from there. KIm
 
oldkimmer said:
U can use a .020 over 440 piston with the 5.35 rod if staying stock stroke. A .060 440 piston will be .040 400 size. Pick ur compression ratio from there. KIm
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Oh yeah for my 471 I'm running 6.70 with a 1.320 ch piston, 4.375 bore.
For my other future offset 3.375 stroke to 3.50 I'll need a 1.53 compression height.
But it's only because I wanna use the rods but I don't know if I trust them in a 600 hp engine
 
I've never seen electronic connecting rods. How do you wire them up?
 
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