Project Midnight Swinger

-
Traded the 2.76 3rd member for this today. I’ve got some 3.73 gears for an 8 1/4 now I just need a sure grip and an install kit. Gonna run it until it breaks then upgrade. Should be half the price of modding the Newport 8 3/4. Yeah I picked it up in my Sentra.

View attachment 1715968681
you gotta use whatever you have for parts chasing. when i was collecting parts for my valiant i put 2 explorer rear axles in my ford c-max (like a focus wagon but with more headroom) and drove 350 miles home with them, lol.
 
you gotta use whatever you have for parts chasing. when i was collecting parts for my valiant i put 2 explorer rear axles in my ford c-max (like a focus wagon but with more headroom) and drove 350 miles home with them, lol.
Whatever it takes! I had a Ram until gas hit $6. Now my Sentra is my parts getter. Between the big trunk and the front seat that folds almost flat it has impressed me with what I can move around.
 
Some small progress

3CC49E42-94C4-4926-B93A-9DFEFDF02BD1.jpeg


6C994A80-6761-4E33-BF59-45D7772E4642.jpeg


75D90C09-EA79-4531-A61B-9E6F57CF132B.jpeg


46E746D6-BCCF-4663-9CAD-23D231E7FC11.jpeg
 
Time to make the radiator fit. Rather than cutting the bottom of the support out completely, I am cutting a channel out of the rad support that will run the length of the radiator. Essentially removing the rounded bend in the support, turning it into a true 90*. Once the rad is bolted in I think I am going to get some 2x2” aluminum angle to cover the slot and add some rigidity back to the rad support.

D2C6D72E-64A6-4BF1-9DB2-B14D51231C70.jpeg


00EB8287-7FB7-4BCE-9E2E-AC0088458246.jpeg


87F77B03-4518-4BFE-9E29-C5020F29F72B.jpeg
 
It’s bolted in and clears everything. This was a lot of work, but I feel like it was worth it. Not only did I not have to buy another radiator, but I was able to stuff just about as big of a Mopar style Radiator as I can in there. my idea pretty much worked out. I still need to bend the bottom portion, where it touches the corners of the radiator as you can see in the pictures. Once it’s bent out flat it should have plenty of clearance. I also think it will be pretty easy to patch up with either a piece of aluminum, or this pretty trick radiator support brace that I’m seeing around town.

DB2C69D8-0C7C-4670-A48D-F70998A2D623.jpeg


2D8A5992-EDCB-4C57-8097-7D99A9BB3A84.jpeg


923827DF-CF71-4399-868D-8ECC3ED71FC3.jpeg


1E07C3C9-27DE-4080-8A96-1770343B8E9A.jpeg


6CAC5853-6139-4947-8686-44EBCC2ADB83.jpeg


C94BE408-C10C-4E11-BF95-FCB6F0B94A89.jpeg


F1DF7991-C9B8-4932-A9AE-71DCFA2EB69F.jpeg


E7113368-9A05-43C9-9753-4C1439BFE68E.jpeg


1B8676EC-8F1E-4868-9776-3897461D2F13.jpeg
 
My boys and I are excited for todays mail drop! I sold the HP manifolds for these Hedman B Body headers that require some small modifications to fit.

I have to swap to manual steering, that’s ok I was going to do it anyway. I will also have to trial fit them which means pulling the motor hopefully less than 10 times and using a ball peen with surgical precision.

Hopefully I don’t regret this decision! Hahaha

Sidenote, the HP manifolds weighed 36 pounds shipped(no heat riser), and the Hedman headers weigh 36 pounds shipped. I’ve never owned a set of big block exhaust manifolds, but I always heard they weighed 45+ pounds for the set. I was actually surprised to see they were only 36 pounds. So no real weight savings going to tube headers, definitely some horsepower to gain though.

9BB37DAF-913B-4922-8BE1-6F81F08AD1FA.jpeg


116118FC-E507-4A81-9E42-C56D496D9032.jpeg
 
I’m a little late to the party, but a free 383:eek: You can’t go wrong with that!

This is a sweet project:thumbsup:
 
After, this was a lot of that shitty work no one likes, and I’m still not satisfied. I’m going to clean it again before cutting and painting the K member.

I’m still undecided if I will actually paint the engine bay or not. I’ve got baby number 3 due in march and I feel like I might need to change plans just to get the motor in. I may go for the ratty muscle look, just clean everything up really good and leave the patina. I really want to drive this thing before I’m an old man…

037B7C11-6577-4302-BFFE-C0B3E02442DF.jpeg


EEFD2968-E030-4CDD-BDDC-46101EA7A589.jpeg


DF7F7315-25DE-402A-A2F8-298E6AEA3CCF.jpeg


2AD59E19-85A0-4C4E-B640-B536680B298E.jpeg
 
Body color, not just because of the fact ma mopar did it. But I like the way it looks, it’s like a jewelry case for your engine.
Silver it is, rustoleum has a bright silver in their custom line that should work. The custom line is an automotive specific paint so hopefully it works well.
 
I always dig cars that come together like this. Looking forward to seeing the engine in it!
 
I always dig cars that come together like this. Looking forward to seeing the engine in it!
Me too man! It can get a little overwhelming at times, but I just tackle one project at a time. Today I will be modifying the K frame as per the Schumacher instructions. If I get some time I’m going to test fit the drivers side header for the header to starter clearance. Might as well start the header fitting now, hopefully I get lucky.
 
To do list:
Mod K frame for BB clearance
Clean engine bay 1 more time
Prime and paint engine bay
Swap power steering box for manual
Add steering u joint for manual swap
Rebuild and paint steering column
Fit headers, install exhaust
New master cylinder,bleed brakes
Heater motor block off plate
Paint dash
Install floor shifter
Swap motor/trans in
Cooling fan: mech or electric?
Install Super Stock springs
Install comp engineering shocks
Rebuild 8 1/4 with 3.73 and suregrip
Shorten driveshaft

That will get it running and stopping. Future upgrades will be:

Full 3/8” fuel line upgrade
Electric fuel pump
Super Stock Scoop
S/S treatment to rear fenders
29” drag radials
Interior
Paint

I just want to get it running and driving as soon as possible then slowly upgrade it while keeping it roadworthy.
 
That was about how my list looked (looks) I also went from power to manual steering.. what adapter are you going to use?
 
Test spray on some cardboard and the cheapo gas cap. It’s definitely more metallic than the body, but with the dark primer the color is pretty close. Will top coat with a gloss to help with durability.

D42524DF-E329-437E-9FAC-97787F08DDE8.jpeg


79FDC0AE-4DC4-445D-B54C-85A86AA12399.jpeg


3E7B5277-D821-4A77-AC2F-1170A0DBE1F6.jpeg


55ECEC2A-742D-4D0C-84CD-C9C10C36B6E2.jpeg


9143F101-3772-404C-AECB-426B8E52DD6C.jpeg


DFD5E80E-AA3A-4F7E-BD32-F559C6857403.jpeg


7A81A020-1E1B-4693-9DFF-A94AD262C112.jpeg
 
Not too bad for a $5 gas cap and some spray paint. I’m very happy with how close the match is. As I have stated before, it’s a significantly different amount of flake but the color is “close ‘nuff!” I think I might try to fix the gas stain with this paint. Pics with flash and without.

0FC76E2F-4D4D-474A-823C-7AE12190AC2D.jpeg


6F68DA2F-C2EC-42E6-AF22-FEA92ED95F85.jpeg


3BA071AC-6C3A-4E03-8C26-523A088E50AA.jpeg


B01842EA-118D-41BB-A8E8-4CFC7F29FA7A.jpeg
 
-
Back
Top