Pulling V.A at idle

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Alright, sounds good! I'm just worried I'll screw it in to tight, and scar a piston? Or not a very good reading. I guess I could screw it in slow, and slowly turn the engine, while adjusting the stop. I'll have to read up on it.......
Just make sure the piston is down some and turn the engine by hand.
 
Just make sure the piston is down some and turn the engine by hand.
Dig that, maybe I'm over thinking it.... it looks like the body screws in the plug opening, then you screw the middle in and out? I just can't envision how that would work, unless I knew the stop was in just far enough, or the piston was already up to the top. I've Lightly probed w/ a screwdriver before, while a helper moved the snout bolt. Man, I apologize for being a pain, and Highly Appreciate all Yer Help over the last 2 years. I'll look into making one, and doing some research. Or buy one in a while. Thanks Rob! I'm gonna get that gasket too. I was thinking, between the One Guy's wacked Distributor, and the fact that it was Dieseln' on shut off, it was too far advanced. But maybe that was the carburetor heat sinking? I dunno.
 
Dig that, maybe I'm over thinking it.... it looks like the body screws in the plug opening, then you screw the middle in and out? I just can't envision how that would work, unless I knew the stop was in just far enough, or the piston was already up to the top. I've Lightly probed w/ a screwdriver before, while a helper moved the snout bolt. Man, I apologize for being a pain, and Highly Appreciate all Yer Help over the last 2 years. I'll look into making one, and doing some research. Or buy one in a while. Thanks Rob! I'm gonna get that gasket too. I was thinking, between the One Guy's wacked Distributor, and the fact that it was Dieseln' on shut off, it was too far advanced. But maybe that was the carburetor heat sinking? I dunno.
The middle "plug" of the piston stop needs to be stiff to turn, like a self locking nut, so that it will stay in place when you turn it in. It does not matter how far, as long as it's far enough to contact the piston. Turn the engine by hand clockwise until the piston contacts the stop, mark a mark on the balancer aligned with zero on the timing tab. Then turn the engine by hand counter clockwise until it makes contact again and mark the balancer at zero again. Halfway between those two marks is TDC. It "helps" to have a degree wheel on the balancer and a pointer, but you can do it without that.
 
It makes zero difference how far down the piston stop goes. But once you screw it in and adjust it, don’t move it again. So, rotate the engine over by hand till the piston in that cylinder is down. Put the stop in. If adjustable, all that gives you is two marks closer together, so screw the adjustment on the stop about halfway and leave it. Rotate the engine one direction by hand slowly until the piston touches the stop. Mark the balancer on zero. Now rotate the engine the other direction until the piston touches the stop again. Mark the balancer at zero. Exactly between your two man made marks will be true TDC. If the two marks are too far away from each other to accurately measure then screw the adjustment on the stop out a little and try again. Easy peasy.
 
Man, Y'all are awesome! My "Mr. Technical" *** over thinks things. So I was Assuming it HAD to be Exactly True TDC. I get it now! So the height don't mean squat, BUT the actual travel of the piston up, and Down, hitting stop,from Crank Throw Center, allows me to make 2 separate Reference Points, one BTDC and One ATDC, then split the difference? So the amount of throw is nothing, it's Crank Throw center, for lack of better terms?
 
I don't know if the valve can hit the piston stop in your application. I always loosen the rockers or pull them off just to be safe.
 
Hmm, it's maybe possible, but I'm thinking unlikely. I'll definitely check into it!
Looks ok on this 596 head.

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