This can also be caused by the rocker shaft needing to be relocated. This was touches on in post #9 and then mostly ignored.
Pushrod problem with Speedmaster heads
- Thread starter dart_68
- Start date
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Same heads with a relocation kit, problem was worse not better. Mikes kit moves the shafts up and away from the valves, coupled with a taller lifter and I had rubbing issues on the intake side of the pushrod hole.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
The lifter bore leans in towards the cylinder 'hence 59 degree' ..the roller lifters are much taller... so now the push rod that sits in the top of the much taller lifter is even closer toward the cylinder...meaning closer to the push rod tunnel at the bottom of the head-pushing it out is makes contact with the tunnels....so the tunnel needs ground for clearance 'outward'...while the rocker stands are cast as if it were 48 degrees and so the top of the pushrods lean back in order to contact the adjusters....and end up contacting the tunnels toward the valve cover rails..
Simply put...the push rods are kicked out at the bottom... and in at the top...and that how we lose so much valve lift before even figuring in the rocker geometry...which is another loss of lift and cam translation.
If you disagree with this it's because your comprehension skills are bad.
Simply put...the push rods are kicked out at the bottom... and in at the top...and that how we lose so much valve lift before even figuring in the rocker geometry...which is another loss of lift and cam translation.
If you disagree with this it's because your comprehension skills are bad.
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Here’s a few pictures of my TrickFlows as they came from the factory. This is with a solid lifter cam.
Ok. i agree with lifter and pushrod pushing toward center top of the bore when up on the lobe.
This SpeedMaster thread right?
I got the alum SM rockers too.
When the cam comes up on the lobe, the pushrod moves away from the hole opening. W/ the SM 1.6 ratio rockers, it is tightest when the lobe is down.
So, just a little clearance work there.
Down near the lifter, I’ve found you need to open up , at an angle, about 2” up into the machined hole at an angle that brings you out the the edge on the end of the deck surface.
I guess you could just bore the hole bigger all the way through, but that would take away the potential of porting and opening up the pushrod pinch thru the intake.
I’ve had to do this by hand. And my Harbour Freight electric die grinder , speed controlled down, and cheap cutters have made this a job.
I have found the long side cutting bits, for side cutting tools (panel, drywall, for receptacle holes and such) work well and are cheap. They reach well up there. And cut.
This SpeedMaster thread right?
I got the alum SM rockers too.
When the cam comes up on the lobe, the pushrod moves away from the hole opening. W/ the SM 1.6 ratio rockers, it is tightest when the lobe is down.
So, just a little clearance work there.
Down near the lifter, I’ve found you need to open up , at an angle, about 2” up into the machined hole at an angle that brings you out the the edge on the end of the deck surface.
I guess you could just bore the hole bigger all the way through, but that would take away the potential of porting and opening up the pushrod pinch thru the intake.
I’ve had to do this by hand. And my Harbour Freight electric die grinder , speed controlled down, and cheap cutters have made this a job.
I have found the long side cutting bits, for side cutting tools (panel, drywall, for receptacle holes and such) work well and are cheap. They reach well up there. And cut.
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