Putting a Solid cam in a Hydraulic Block??

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Brambles

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I'm entertaining different ideas for Camshafts for the 340 I'm building. What do you have to do to a engine that was originally a Hydraulic cam to put a solid cam in it. Can you just slide the Solid lifters in and away you go or do you have to bush the lifter bores and monkey around a bit to get it running.

Mostly a street motor kept under 7000 rpm, probably shift at 6500 or so the odd time it might make it to the track.

I don't have any experiance with solid cams, I heard someone say that you get a more responsive, quicker revving engine, is this true????

Thanks

Brambles
 
You just need to buy the cam/lifter package you want with the appropriate valve springs and buy adjustable rocker arms with the proper pushrods.
 
You probably allready know this Brambles but you'll need a new solid lifter cam for those solid lifters. That being said you shouldn't have to do anything special to the block so that it'll accept the lifters as long as the lifter to bore clearances are correct. You'll obviously need adjustable rocker arms and cup/ball push rods not the ball/ball rods used on the stock engine. I'm sure several of the members can tell you the perfect combo to use especially the cam choice. List your entire power train (engine internals, tranny, converter, rear end and ratio) to help the process.

Terry
 
Thanks guys,
The whole car is still being built up but this is what is planned. The shortblock is going to be build pretty soon.

1970 Swinger 340
3.91 gears
2800-3000 Stall (havent got it yet, will have it built specific to the car)
Race Prepped 904

1971 340 engine
Ross 55328 NHRA legal Pistons ( don't have a specific compression ratio but these pistons should yeild a minimum 10:1)
Scat I beam or H beam Rods Havent decided
Forged Factory Crank
ARP main studs and align honed mains

I'm going to fully port a set of 915J heads for now but might invest in aluminum later down the road. 2.02/1.60's

Intake will probably be a Performer RPM Non-Airgap, I live in Canada and it can get cool.
Carb will probably be a Demon 650-725 ish carb.

I'm hoping between 425 - 450 Hp maybe a little more towards the 450
Don't really care if its a hydraulic cam or Solid cam, but if I can get a better running engine by going to a solid cam then I will.

In reality the car will be mostly street driven, occasional trips to the drag track but mostly a cruizer. I know the engine is probably a little hot for that but what the hell. I have another 340 That I can build more stock and a 360 LA with magnum heads that runs good too. Hot Street/Strip for this one.
 
I just changed my 340 to a solid cam and lifters

I have comp cams adjustable rockers, cam and lifters. Custom pushrods were made for the proper lenght

I have a set of 915 J heads that had hardened seats and 2.02 valves installed. If the aluminum heads would have been available and as affordable then as they are now it would be a no brainer to use the aluminum Edelbrock heads.

IF, I were building a new engine now instead of fixing the problem I had I would

use a roller cam

Aluminum heads

Build it right this time you will be money ahead

and go ahead and put a stroker crank in instead of getting the stock crank turned

good luck on your build
 
WildCat said:
and go ahead and put a stroker crank in instead of getting the stock crank turned

good luck on your build
Click to expand...


I don't feel right stroking a 340, I'll stroke a 360 till the cows come home but 340's arn't getting any more common. Especially in Canada where people want mega bucks for a 340 core. Plus I want a 340 in my 340 swinger, I'll build a stroker later on a 360 platform if I feel the urge.

My pistons are already for a 3.31 stroke as well, and they will probably protrude above the deck like regular 340 pistons 1.840 compression height IIRC so my only option is to use the edelbrock Performer RPM 340 heads and those can be swapped in at a later date without any changes.


How do you like the solid cam vs the hydraulic?
 
The 360 thats in my Duster now was built in 1994 & I have a dyno sheet from Bristol TN where the guy had it dyno'ed. It made 389 RWHP. Its nothing fancy, just a good running street motor.

72' 360 block bored .40
71' 340 J heads ported/polished
Mopar single plane intake of the M-1 variant, with some mild porting.
Mopar purple 292 solid cam W/commando rockers
750 Holley DP.

Keep in mind this was in 94' whem the motor was still fresh, but it still runs very strong, & it will turn every bit of 7000 rpm's (shift light set at 6700).
 
I have a perfect 408 short block for you. Solid cam .248/.252 @ .050 (Hughes). Less than 800 miles. Also have a convertor and 915 heads and carb. I'm in Calgary
 
69GRAYBODY said:
I have a perfect 408 short block for you. Solid cam .248/.252 @ .050 (Hughes). Less than 800 miles. Also have a convertor and 915 heads and carb. I'm in Calgary
Click to expand...

You would think 4 yrs later he would have his 340 running.........
 
People tune in and then tune out, lol

I have a solid cam waiting to be put in my 340, just been going on trips and blowing my extra cash.

It have to run better -higher and the 340 is built to rev. If it wasn't for the extra CI the strokers give, the short stroke engines would win since they can rev higher and pump out more air, burn more fuel = more HP

Adjusting the valves is a hassle but I'm sure after a bit it gets retinue and a one hour job. Cast valve covers hold the gaskets better and you can just reuse them - hi tack the gasket to the cover and not the head.

Another plus on the older heads vs magnum, only 5 bolts holding the cover down.

When the LA was first engineered it came with a solid cam, very mild but gee today we are told hyd is better for mild cams but then why did the 273 come with a solid cam ?
 
Love solid flat tappets.Simple,reliable,more midrange torque carries up top.
 
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