10.2 is fine by me. But I noticed the A/F ratio is a little lean at 13.2. I may try a jet change.
QA1 dynamic strut rods
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furrystump
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I run QA-1 R’s on the front. Single adjustable, the extension adjusts quite a bit and the compression just a bit. On the front I don’t need to worry about compression. I’m not picking the tire up and coming down hard. Double definitely in the back though. QA-1’s double adjustables in back.
Duane
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That could be, but a 1.56 60 ft at 10:20et is not the best.
Years ago my dart used to run 11.20 with a 1.50 60ft
10:20 should better than that.
I am going to go with the RMS strutrods. If time and weather allow I may try to get a run before the track closes later this month. Got to get the car to the alignment shop after the install and that won't be this week. Oh well. First got to get the bars! Ordered today.
B3422w5
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agree. Mine has been 1.44 and goes 10.70’s in good air. Usually 1.47-1.48 in summer air
Looky looky. RMS strut rods!
RMS strut rods
I already installed one and found that the oem one I removed was bent! Easy. No control arm removal required. Cut off wheel did the trick.
Duane
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Oh so you don't want the non destructive method.
The instructions are a little confusing. I'm hoping alignment guy can help me set the proper length. I do not have a 1/2 Allen so I'll go get one today. Clean the hole in the control arm before slipping the bolt through.
weedburner
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Not a Mopar, but you can also do this to convert a stock biscuit style strut rod. Pretty low buck way to free up some travel...
A few years later I lightened things up a bit by going to a motor plate and fab'ing these to replace the stock stuff...
The ball joint cups on the fab'd control arms are just a short section of sch40. No machining to fit the ball joints, just bought new joints and welded them into the short section of pipe. Three short welds on top, three short welds on bottom, not enough heat to hurt the inner workings of the joint.
Grant
A few years later I lightened things up a bit by going to a motor plate and fab'ing these to replace the stock stuff...
The ball joint cups on the fab'd control arms are just a short section of sch40. No machining to fit the ball joints, just bought new joints and welded them into the short section of pipe. Three short welds on top, three short welds on bottom, not enough heat to hurt the inner workings of the joint.
Grant
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Duane
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IMHO with nylon lower control arm bushings, the proper length is where you get the least amount of bind.
The geometry is not perfect with these hemi joint strut rods.
I adjusted mine to get the least resistance with the lower arm hanging down like at launch.
Well now that the strut rods are installed. When I checked for front end travel, I found a problem. My QA1 Tubular upper arms are hitting the frame on both the front and rear. The front bushing tower can be trimmed. The rear contact area though is with the actual frame rail. I'm not sure I want to cut a notch and patch it. I see that everyone's Tubular upper arms are a straight shot to the ball joint. The arm should arch up at the bushing end to avoid the contact. The heim joint style look straight as well. Anybody run into this before?
Duane
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I have the Rms upper arms. Yes I recall that I had to do some trimming and notching. It said so in the instructions.
I cannot comment on the qa1 model.
I remember something about trimming if you needed to ,but the rear arm is laying on the frame rail. I can trim the front but it's the rear that's already hitting.
Duane
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Got a pic
Not at the moment. Have to jack the front up. But I'm taking it for an alignment on Friday so I'll get good shots.
furrystump
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Psst, there are taller ball joints that raise the upper arm up. IIRC they are 1” taller?
Duane
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Qa1 I have a set on my dart
That's sounds like it would solve the issue! Thank you! I'll look into them.
I took no pictures....but I did point it out to my alignment guy Dave at Dedham Super Service. When I stuck my finger in there to show him, I felt a notch in the frame from the arm hitting it. We aligned the car and I took it to the track Saturday. Got 3 runs in. Best 60 foot ever 1.506 best et 10.16 and best mph at 132.54. Follow up run I spun the tires about 10 feet out . 1.667 60 foot and the first time ever spinning my tires. I am going to try dropping my air pressure which I have kept at 20 to rule out the rear end wagging around at the top. I had high speed steering issues which I've made manageable. My hood scoop is pulling the front end up at the top end.I spoke to the tech guys and found it how to "shield"my carb to run without a hood. I'd like to try it. I think I'm going to end up with a cowel type scoop on my fiberglass hood. Not sure yet. Anyway best 1/4 mile so far. Getting there.
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