QA1 Strut Rod Locking Nut Issue

-
T

tjpatte

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2015
Messages
872
Reaction score
831
Location
San Diego
Installing QA1 Strut rods on my 70 Dart and ran into an issue with the locking nut on the control arm side. Due to the size of the nut, the angle the rod is at and the opening size in the lower control arm I'm unable to shorten the length of the strut rod enough. The locking nut hits up against the control arm on the inboard side which requires the nut to be about 1/2" out from bottoming on the bolt that's bolted to the control arm. I imagine I could grind out the opening to allow enough room for the nut, however wondering if anyone has run into this issue.

Where it needs to be.

5B2410C0-EED3-4EEA-A518-2B4D479177CB.jpeg
 
Is there supposed to be a spacer between the nut & control arm? Is the locking nut supposed to be on the other side of the control arm? Is the front nut supposed to be backed all the way off when installing the rod, & then run down to touch the control arm, then tighten the nut on the back side of the control arm where the rod comes through? I know these questions sound stupid, but I've never installed this kind before. Something seems out of place here. Again, not to sound stupid, but do the instructions say anything about how they are installed? It appears that the rod itself is adjustable, by seeing the flats on it. I'm curious to know what's causing this problem now too! I will be watching for answers myself.
 
Can you shorten the "other end" and make up the difference?
 
niceolddart said:
Is there supposed to be a spacer between the nut & control arm? Is the locking nut supposed to be on the other side of the control arm? Is the front nut supposed to be backed all the way off when installing the rod, & then run down to touch the control arm, then tighten the nut on the back side of the control arm where the rod comes through? I know these questions sound stupid, but I've never installed this kind before. Something seems out of place here. Again, not to sound stupid, but do the instructions say anything about how they are installed? It appears that the rod itself is adjustable, by seeing the flats on it. I'm curious to know what's causing this problem now too! I will be watching for answers myself.
Click to expand...

RustyRatRod said:
Can you shorten the "other end" and make up the difference?
Click to expand...
Nope, no spacer plus it would make it longer which would make my problem worse. I backed the front nut all the way off and still couldn't get it short enough like you and Rusty mentioned. The instructions mostly say to measure the length of your original strut and ensure the forward mount doesn't bind when you cycle the suspension. The installation is pretty straight forward, it's just the length that's causing issues.

7693BC1D-C0B7-486E-BA33-D0339896E16C.jpeg
 
Any chance you were sent B body struts? I'd be calling.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Those are pretty to look at who cares if they function safely.
Click to expand...

Yeah, cars are getting crashed daily because they used adjustable strut rods.


Says no one who actually has used them and didn’t botch the install.

Not only are they better than the piss poor OE system they are safer.
 
So, does anyone know the length of the gold anodized rods for A bodies?
 
tjpatte said:
So, does anyone know the length of the gold anodized rods for A bodies?
Click to expand...

~13" . My Duster has the other style of adjustable strut rod on it, but to leave room for the double adjuster the QA1 strut rods use the threaded barrel would need to be fairly close to 13". If anything they'd be a bit shorter than that.
 
tjpatte said:
Installing QA1 Strut rods on my 70 Dart and ran into an issue with the locking nut on the control arm side. Due to the size of the nut, the angle the rod is at and the opening size in the lower control arm I'm unable to shorten the length of the strut rod enough. The locking nut hits up against the control arm on the inboard side which requires the nut to be about 1/2" out from bottoming on the bolt that's bolted to the control arm. I imagine I could grind out the opening to allow enough room for the nut, however wondering if anyone has run into this issue.

Where it needs to be.

View attachment 1716044598
Click to expand...
I clearanced my LCA with a carbide bit on a die grinder. I haven't crashed yet.... Hot rodding 101. Nothing fits perfectly, make it work.
 
racerjoe said:
I'm not a machinist, nor do I own a lathe. I'm sure I could figure out how to make them if I did have a lathe, but $300 for some strut rods is cheaper than $5K for a lathe.
Click to expand...
You could just use you original struts and add a Heim end. They thread right on. That is what most race car builders did in the past. Make them stronger yourself for less money. Never buy another piece.

8" of flat stock and 2 heims.

Steve 069.JPG


Steve 075.JPG
 
Oldmanmopar said:
You could just use you original struts and add a Heim end. They thread right on. That is what most race car builders did in the past. Make them stronger yourself for less money. Never buy another piece.

8" of flat stock and 2 heims.

View attachment 1716047816

View attachment 1716047819
Click to expand...

Ahh, there it is!

That same K frame you didn't build. Tiny cross sectional area on the K frame, less torsional resistance than a factory K would have for street driving. 100% drag race only application.

The permanent attachment of the tabs also doesn't allow any adjustment on the clocking of the heims, which is necessary to adjust for the ride height of the car and keep the heims within their misalignment range. Fine for a drag race only car with little front end travel, not at all a good idea on a street car where the ~5.5" of travel will have the heim cycle from one edge of its misalignment angle to the other as it moves through the whole range of travel. If you've actually set up a strut rod like that, adjusting the clocking on the heim and making sure it doesn't run out of misalignment angle is part of setting up the length of the strut rods and checking for any binding in the suspension.

That's not a street worthy set up, certainly not for a handling application.
 
72bluNblu said:
Ahh, there it is!

That same K frame you didn't build. Tiny cross sectional area on the K frame, less torsional resistance than a factory K would have for street driving. 100% drag race only application.

The permanent attachment of the tabs also doesn't allow any adjustment on the clocking of the heims, which is necessary to adjust for the ride height of the car and keep the heims within their misalignment range. Fine for a drag race only car with little front end travel, not at all a good idea on a street car where the ~5.5" of travel will have the heim cycle from one edge of its misalignment angle to the other as it moves through the whole range of travel. If you've actually set up a strut rod like that, adjusting the clocking on the heim and making sure it doesn't run out of misalignment angle is part of setting up the length of the strut rods and checking for any binding in the suspension.

That's not a street worthy set up, certainly not for a handling application.
Click to expand...
You really don't have a clue what you are talking about. They are fully adjustable and installed for easier motion. And as far as the K-frame I didn't build. You just keep making up stories to sell parts .

Go to this thread where you are mentioned by PST as their salesman. You and your buddies are a joke.

Not happy with PST poly graphite lower control arm bushings

Steve 118 - Copy.JPG


Steve 120 - Copy.JPG
 
Received the struts and 72blu was right, the anodized rods are 13” long exactly.

Figured I would close part of this out, will install them this weekend now that I’m done swapping out my water heater…
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top