Questions on 344/349 build.

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derrangedgadgeteer

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Alrighty. I require information before I commit to this.

I'm saving money and specing parts for a 318 build. I'll be running it against my buddy, a long-time chevy-builder, running 355's and 327's and we'll be primarily running in the 1/8th. I will however, be driving this thing very regularly. (My opponent will be driving his as well.)

I realize that a 360 would build more power for fewer dollars, but everything, particularly basic rebuild stuff is more expensive for some reason.

This has led me to the idea of building a 344/349 stroker, putting a 360 crank with the mains turned down in a 318 block, running an open chamber smog head, and running 318 pistons to put the piston just a smidge past zero deck. (.035 with 1.72 compression distance pistons)

I've been playing with desktop dyno, And with the parameters set as best I can, I should get 10.5 compression with 71cc 360 heads. Various cams put the motor making up to 430hp@6k/422tq@4500 There's no way I'd go with that much though, probably something that puts it closer to 350-375 horse.

My questions:

Where can I get floating Wrist pins for the 318? and are they cheaper than getting pistons pressed into the rods? I'm going to try and find an earlier engine that already has the floating pins, but if I can't, I really don't want to have to spend even MORE money at the machine shop.

Can anyone link me to a good rundown of the various heads? I can find bits and pieces, but I can't find something that'll let me compare the heads side-by-side, not to mention I find a bit of conflicting info. Valve sizes, what they came on, and chamber cc's in particular.

Furthermore, I'll be junkyard hopping for many of my major engine parts, Looking in trucks for heads and cranks. Are all pre-magnum 360 heads open chamber, or did some of them have closed chamber fast-burn heads? Are any 318 heads I'm likely to come across open chamber?

Is there anything else about the 360 crank that won't let it be put in the 318 besides the main sizes and getting it balanced? Any funny bolt pattern differences or the like?

Has anyone tried Rhodes Lifters? The ones that bleed down and reduce your lift and duration at low rpm, then restore it at high rpm? I'm considering a set.

Thanks y'all.
 
You could mill the pistons .020, if you use the fel pro 8553, you'll have about .045 compressed w/.030 quench distance using closed chamber rhs or eddy or ?

Just turn the mains down to fit & internally balance it.
You could use the 60's and early 70's floating 273/318 rods, they are smaller/lighter weight and will handle some rpm, though not the strongest ultimately..
could also reverse the pistons, if directional to free up a few ft lbs
 
Find a 360.

If you think 360 stuff is expensive, unless you can do the machine work, wait til you see what it cost to do what you want to do.

KB107 pistons aren't expensive and everything for a 360 is about the same cost as a 318.

Figure what you want to run for et/mph, know what your car weighs, and build the HP to make it happen with your budget in mind.
 
Have your block sonicly tested snd msx bore it. Run 360 heads milled down for a good ratio, with a zero deck piston or as close as possble. Cam, convere and gear the crap out of it. Put a 750 cfm on top.
 
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