Quicktime Bellhousing Issues

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goldduster318

Overzealous Car Modifier
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Hi all,

I had installed my new 470hp MRL 340 with the Quicktime bell and my A-833. Initially, I had a few problems with the centering adapter ring being too tight, but everything else seemed ok...that is, until I started trying to hook up the clutch linkage.

The design of the bellhousing does not allow the fork to droop far enough for the clutch rod to run straight. I tried messing with this a bit and I can't get it to actuate well. There was some minor misalignment for the torque shaft, but that's not a terribly difficult fix.

So, today, I pulled the transmission out thinking that maybe I could just go directly to the factory pivot bracket for the clutch fork, but the fork does not clear the hole in the bellhousing once installed.

Has anyone else installed this bellhousing? If you did, what fork/fork pivot bracket did you use?
 
You will have to use the fork and pivot for a small block for your year A body( check out Brewer's web sight ). Then I had to make a spacer to get the fork swing right in the middle of the ajustment rod(I think I made a 1/4 inch spacer between the pivot and bell) but mine is a 66 Dart so I used the fork and pivot from Brewer's for a 10.5 clutch in an early A.
 
See, that's my issue...the stock fork pivot doesn't work without modification. I can possibly try drilling the holes closer so its the edge so the fork centers up, but I'm not totally sure about it.
 
Do you have the stock bellhousing?

Using stock bell, measure from the flywheel face to the pivot bracket edge. Make sure when the QT is in that you have the same distance. If you need to make a spacer, use that to adjust any clocking issues so the droop is correct. Compare where the pivot bracket bolts up on your stock bell and QT, that may give you a decent idea of where you need to go. Or weld some material on the pivot bracket and redrill mount holes.

If you need to make a spacer, use that to adjust any clocking issues so the droop is correct.
 
Well, I've been trying that. The hole in the side of the bellhousing just plain isn't big enough to get the correct amount of droop.

On top of that, I already destroyed the SFI sticker (man that thing is not durable at all). and It might be time for drastic measures. I don't care too much about it being SFI re-certifiable, however, it still shouldn't be designed so terribly. I will never buy anything from these guys ever again.
 
I had to make my spacer 5/8, in addition to using the factory pivot. NOT Quicktime's. 71 Demon. Been working good now for 3 seasons. Damn shame QT doesn't even know this crap. Not to mention the flex issue....
 
Based on what I've seen, the factory pivot pushes the fork too far outboard. I have a custom pivot mocked up and tacked together. Will get it welded together soon by someone with a 220V welder and some better skills so it will last.

I had to open up the clutch fork hole as well. I don't race the car at the strip so it doesn't matter so much. This is still a lot safer than the stock bellhousing.

I'm not entirely sure what I will have to do for the linkage in order to get the z-bar to run properly, but when I had it in before, it wasn't terribly far off. I'll have to get this done and get the trans back in before that happens.
 
other than flex issues mine was a direct bolt~in with stock parts...1971 demon

I had to make my spacer 5/8, in addition to using the factory pivot. NOT Quicktime's. 71 Demon. Been working good now for 3 seasons. Damn shame QT doesn't even know this crap. Not to mention the flex issue....
 
I had the same problem with my quicktime bellhousing. The supplied pivot didn't line up in the groove of the clutch fork. I finally installed the original pivot from my old bellhousing backwards and it lined up perfectly. I'm not happy with quicktime. I spent an enormous amount of time and effort pulling and re-installing my trans. Hope you have yours fixed by now.
 
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