Radiant Barrier Insulation

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RustyRatRod

I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday.
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Those in the know, please educate me on this thin, reflective "radiant barrier" insulation. I'm going to be looking at slowly insulating my shop this coming year. 28x30 metal building with 9' walls and 12' peak. Will this thin stuff really work? It rarely gets under 20*F during the winter here, but the summer is mainly what I am looking to insulate against.

I was lookin at somethin like this, but I don't know enough about WTF I'm lookin at. Any help or advice? Thanks.

Reflectix 48 in. x 100 ft. Double Reflective Insulation Roll-BP48100 - The Home Depot
 
watching. any elaboration on the fire rating would be helpful. RRR, are you going to cover the insulation?
 
My friend had his corrugated metal shop sprayed with foam on the inside. He had a company come in and do the whole interior. We live in a very, very hot humid climate so he was looking for energy savings because he uses AC most of the summer (9/10) months a year. We both found it amazing how much the spray foam helped. On the few cold days we do have he has to open both bay doors to let the cold out and the sunlight in. On all the other hot days he hardly has to run the AC because the building retains the cool from being empty all night. It was money well spend and I never would have thought that the spray foam would be so efficient at keeping the heat out in the summer and keeping heat in during the winter. Don't know what your spending limits are but you'll be happy with the spray foam if you decide to go that way!!!
 
watching. any elaboration on the fire rating would be helpful. RRR, are you going to cover the insulation?

Yes. I plan to cover the walls and ceiling with "something". I don't really know what yet. It won't be drywall, because that gets damaged easily from moisture. Maybe some thin plywood or paneling? Whatever's cheapest.
 
My friend had his corrugated metal shop sprayed with foam on the inside. He had a company come in and do the whole interior. We live in a very, very hot humid climate so he was looking for energy savings because he uses AC most of the summer (9/10) months a year. We both found it amazing how much the spray foam helped. On the few cold days we do have he has to open both bay doors to let the cold out and the sunlight in. On all the other hot days he hardly has to run the AC because the building retains the cool from being empty all night. It was money well spend and I never would have thought that the spray foam would be so efficient at keeping the heat out in the summer and keeping heat in during the winter. Don't know what your spending limits are but you'll be happy with the spray foam if you decide to go that way!!!

I will never have the resources to do that. I am going to have to do "whatever" myself.
 
Yes. I plan to cover the walls and ceiling with "something". I don't really know what yet. It won't be drywall, because that gets damaged easily from moisture. Maybe some thin plywood or paneling? Whatever's cheapest.

cdx plywood. You can find some with one side sanded. Be picky, you’ll find it. Stay away from osb and bare board. I would not use Masonite either.
 
cdx plywood. You can find some with one side sanded. Be picky, you’ll find it. Stay away from osb and bare board. I would not use Masonite either.

Yeah I've seen what OSB does with moisture. It ain't purdy. Thank you!
 
Those in the know, please educate me on this thin, reflective "radiant barrier" insulation. I'm going to be looking at slowly insulating my shop this coming year. 28x30 metal building with 9' walls and 12' peak. Will this thin stuff really work? It rarely gets under 20*F during the winter here, but the summer is mainly what I am looking to insulate against.

I was lookin at somethin like this, but I don't know enough about WTF I'm lookin at. Any help or advice? Thanks.

Reflectix 48 in. x 100 ft. Double Reflective Insulation Roll-BP48100 - The Home Depot
Shows an R-value of 3.7 - 21 (depending on application).. That's quite a range. At 3.7 I wouldn't think you'd feel much benefit. 21 would do you great. I did my 2 car garage with R-19. World of difference, I love it.
 
Shows an R-value of 3.7 - 21 (depending on application).. That's quite a range. At 3.7 I wouldn't think you'd feel much benefit. 21 would do you great. I did my 2 car garage with R-19. World of difference, I love it.

Yeah, I'm tryin to figure that out. How does insulation have a variable R factor? And what application gets how much R factor? So far, I'm not having any luck finding those answers.
 
Yeah, I'm tryin to figure that out. How does insulation have a variable R factor? And what application gets how much R factor? So far, I'm not having any luck finding those answers.
Didn't make a lot of sense to me. Looks like a cheap date if it'll provide a decent R value.
 
My friend had his corrugated metal shop sprayed with foam on the inside. He had a company come in and do the whole interior. We live in a very, very hot humid climate so he was looking for energy savings because he uses AC most of the summer (9/10) months a year. We both found it amazing how much the spray foam helped. On the few cold days we do have he has to open both bay doors to let the cold out and the sunlight in. On all the other hot days he hardly has to run the AC because the building retains the cool from being empty all night. It was money well spend and I never would have thought that the spray foam would be so efficient at keeping the heat out in the summer and keeping heat in during the winter. Don't know what your spending limits are but you'll be happy with the spray foam if you decide to go that way!!!
What was the charge per sq ft? Do you recall?
 
I wish now I would have bit the bullet and had mine sprayed when it was empty. Summers are a ***** inside.
 
Thanks, I'm going to have to do something. The afternoon heat on the West wall is unbearable.
I can tell that the spray insulation did an amazing job. I would have never thought it would be so efficient at cutting heat!! My friend's large garage has a concrete foundation and at night the cool off the ground soaks into the building so that the interior is cool in the morning, even on those super hot days the building is cool in the morning until about 11 AM then he turns the AC "on". This is typical for 95 to 100 degree days most of the summer. He just sent me a text......$3500 for 1500 sq feet of walls and ceiling (it's a large garage). That's about $2.33 per sq ft.?
 
I'm probably right at 2000 sq ft. I'll look into it
I think he had about 8 inches of foam on the ceiling and walls. You can do it yourself if you rent a spray rig from Lowes because the spray foam isn't that expensive.
 
Does anybody know if that radiant barrier I posted a link to is worth a **** or not?
 
That foil roll is not “insulation” per se. First, I would have to be air tight to make any difference at all, it has no warming capabilities. The pink stuff works by taking the inevitable flow of air through a “loose” structure, and warming it by forcing it to pass through the pink layer, effectively “exciting” the air as it bumps and squeezes through the thickness of the pink stuff.The paper is just a vapor barrier. They use the foil roll here in Michigan only for a cold air return when it has to be in an outside wall, and not to warm the air, only to pass code. You will also see it under a garage slab that has radiant infloor heat tubes running in the concrete. I suppose if you taped it or caulked all around it when you were putting it in, it would do something.

The spray foam mentioned above is the state of the art way of insulating. It allows no air to flow in or out, so instead of fighting against cold air coming in and warm air leaking out, it is a completely sealed barrier. They spray that right on the underside of the roof plywood, that’s called a hot roof. In an attic, there has to be air movement in traditional construction. If there isn’t, the underside of the roof plywood would condensate when it was colder outside, and I’ve seen it so bad that it actually frosts on the inside of the roof, in a hot roof, that doesn’t happen. It’s the way to go, but also the most expensive.

I worked at a townhouse complex where they used the smooth side of OSB facing the workshop space, and used high gloss polyurethane as a sealer. They rolled it right on, and it dried shiny. You could wipe it clean, drill and put screws and shelves wherever you wanted. I thought it was a pretty smart setup.
 
That foil roll is not “insulation” per se. First, I would have to be air tight to make any difference at all, it has no warming capabilities. The pink stuff works by taking the inevitable flow of air through a “loose” structure, and warming it by forcing it to pass through the pink layer, effectively “exciting” the air as it bumps and squeezes through the thickness of the pink stuff.The paper is just a vapor barrier. They use the foil roll here in Michigan only for a cold air return when it has to be in an outside wall, and not to warm the air, only to pass code. You will also see it under a garage slab that has radiant infloor heat tubes running in the concrete. I suppose if you taped it or caulked all around it when you were putting it in, it would do something.

The spray foam mentioned above is the state of the art way of insulating. It allows no air to flow in or out, so instead of fighting against cold air coming in and warm air leaking out, it is a completely sealed barrier. They spray that right on the underside of the roof plywood, that’s called a hot roof. In an attic, there has to be air movement in traditional construction. If there isn’t, the underside of the roof plywood would condensate when it was colder outside, and I’ve seen it so bad that it actually frosts on the inside of the roof, in a hot roof, that doesn’t happen. It’s the way to go, but also the most expensive.

I worked at a townhouse complex where they used the smooth side of OSB facing the workshop space, and used high gloss polyurethane as a sealer. They rolled it right on, and it dried shiny. You could wipe it clean, drill and put screws and shelves wherever you wanted. I thought it was a pretty smart setup.

Thanks. I figured it was too good to be true. No way can we afford spray in, even doing it ourselves. I'll just have to do fiberglass insulation a little at a time.
 
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