Radiator overheating problems F-150

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68coupe

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My neighbor has a 1998 Ford F-150 that he replaced the water pump and thermostat. He was then having problems with overheating. I'm not sure why he replaced the pump in the first place, I assumed it was leaking. The truck would overheat very quickly while driving at 35-40 mph, then cool very quickly at idle. The colder the outside temp, the worse the problem was. We finally determined that the late model 98 didn't have a water temp sending unit, it has a head temp sending unit.

That was on Sunday. I checked with his brother later in the week and he told me that the problem was fixed - air blockage somewhere in the system. I've heard about this problem but never experienced it.

Any information on the subject and how to avoid it?
 
Yes, if you empty the cooling system, back fill through the highest point, usually the upper heater hose. Disconnect it from engine and pour fluid into heater hose until it runs out of engine port. Then top off radiator.
 
The problem is the brand. The Ford emblem is inside an oval, because Ford circled the problem.
 
So lemmie get this straight. You're worrying about how to stop a problem that you don't even have. You need some meds.
 
RustyRatRod said:
So lemmie get this straight. You're worrying about how to stop a problem that you don't even have. You need some meds.
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Why do you even bother to comment? Seems you are the one that needs some anti-depressant meds!
 
68coupe said:
Why do you even bother to comment? Seems you are the one that needs some anti-depressant meds!
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I commented to give some humor. You know. Like a bunch of friends? Just forget it.
 
Drill the thermostat, and it'll never have that problem again.
one 1/16 hole halfway between the thermal unit and the outer rim.

It let's the air out from under it while filling, and makes no difference in anything as far as the engine, heating, or cooling system.
 
Gotta Burp it, just like the old house radiators
 
TrailBeast said:
Drill the thermostat, and it'll never have that problem again.
one 1/16 hole halfway between the thermal unit and the outer rim.

It let's the air out from under it while filling, and makes no difference in anything as far as the engine, heating, or cooling system.
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^^^^^^^^^^ Xs2,, best option,..

or take a heater hose off at the firewall,, raise it above the fitting,, and fill in usual manner till coolant comes outta heater core fitting,, attach hose, top up the coolant..

hope it helps
 
inertia said:
^^^^^^^^^^ Xs2,, best option,..

or take a heater hose off at the firewall,, raise it above the fitting,, and fill in usual manner till coolant comes outta heater core fitting,, attach hose, top up the coolant..

hope it helps
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That's a helluva an idear
 
stroked340 said:
I don't think so theres no better truck made and no other truck i'll ever own...
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Apparently you do not know about all the problems with the Triton engine. A local power company replaced their new Ford fleet within 6 months due to the Triton, and its head problems.
 
Chuckman said:
Apparently you do not know about all the problems with the Triton engine. A local power company replaced their new Ford fleet within 6 months due to the Triton, and its head problems.
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What about all the Dodge truck transmissions that have bit the dust? They all have their crap areas. Apparently you don't know about that.
 
Chuckman said:
Apparently you do not know about all the problems with the Triton engine. A local power company replaced their new Ford fleet within 6 months due to the Triton, and its head problems.
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The triton head problems have been greatly exaggerated. The first problem was part of the spark plug breaking off in the head due to carbon buildup. Sounds like a disaster, doesn't it? Not really, though. Go get Lisle plug extractor (about 100 bucks) and 20-30 minutes later you're good to go. The oem plugs will start breaking off around 40- 50k on the odometer, but the upgraded aftermarket plug will last around 80k. I have heard of heads having to come off due to plug siezures, but have never seen it happen. I keep expecting them to sieze, but they never do. Fords fix for this problem wasn't a very good one, either. The 2nd design plugs do not have the seizing problem, but they do blow plugs out due to the new plugs not having enough threads in the head. But don't worry because this is an easy fix, too. just put a helicoil in it and you're fine. again, an easy fix. Considering how impressive the 5.4 has been through the years, these problems seem minimal to me.
 
bluetrane said:
The triton head problems have been greatly exaggerated. The first problem was part of the spark plug breaking off in the head due to carbon buildup. Sounds like a disaster, doesn't it? Not really, though. Go get Lisle plug extractor (about 100 bucks) and 20-30 minutes later you're good to go. The oem plugs will start breaking off around 40- 50k on the odometer, but the upgraded aftermarket plug will last around 80k. I have heard of heads having to come off due to plug siezures, but have never seen it happen. I keep expecting them to sieze, but they never do. Fords fix for this problem wasn't a very good one, either. The 2nd design plugs do not have the seizing problem, but they do blow plugs out due to the new plugs not having enough threads in the head. But don't worry because this is an easy fix, too. just put a helicoil in it and you're fine. again, an easy fix. Considering how impressive the 5.4 has been through the years, these problems seem minimal to me.
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I have 2 customers with them. After attempting a tune up on one, with the first plug breaking, I hired a local ford guy to come fix it. After that, no more. The dealer wanted 4000 to fix it. Minimal???? The 7 other plugs broke off at a ford dealer. At this time the SPECIAL tools were on back order, so the dealers were taking customers to the cleaners. Complete piles of crap. Ford should have never designed such garbage. Yes everything has its problem, the plug thing is utter BS.
JUSY MY 40+ years of experience.
 
Actually, it's not from carbon buildup. It's from water draining into the plug holes and rusting the plugs into the head. The way the hood is made makes it drip water right onto the plugs on one side.
 
The ground strap is pressed into the head. There's no carbon build up, there's no water running into the holes. That's the problem plain and simple. As the plug tightens it presses the ground strap into the head. Sometimes, the ground strap doesn't wanna give up the press fit and stays in place.

A lot of guys panic when the damn things separate, reach in with a pair of needle nose, and start wiggling the plug back and forth. Broken porcelain.

Do it right and the plugs come out clean. Do it wrong and you're stuck with a nightmare.

It's not rocket science or voodoo, it's just simple mechanics, taking some time to think it through. I've heard so many myths about how to get the things out it's not even funny. I especially like the "do it when it's cold" myth. That's guaranteed to lead to broken plugs.

Warm the truck up to operating temp then shut it down. With the truck still warm, take the coils out and turn the plugs just until they crack loose. Spray a little bit of your favorite penetrating oil in the the holes and walk away. Don't touch it, just walk away. Come back when the engine is warm to the touch and take the plugs out. And they will come out.

I think I've used the "special tool" once in my career at Ford and that was when a truck was towed in from another garage with three broken porcelains and two more ground straps left behind.

Back to the OP:

buy one of these

View attachment 410gKy372TL._SX300_.jpg

It's a bleed funnel. Fill the funnel to the taper ring. As the vehicle runs it'll allow air to escape. When the thermostat opens it push all the remaining air out and pull the coolant from the funnel in. You'll have to stand there for a little while and wait for the t-stat to open and poor more coolant in when it starts pulling from the funnel. No muss, no fuss.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Actually, it's not from carbon buildup. It's from water draining into the plug holes and rusting the plugs into the head. The way the hood is made makes it drip water right onto the plugs on one side.
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So water from the hood drips into the plug holes, makes its way past the threads into the combustion chamber?
 
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