Radiator Recommendations

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Ken Pevay

Ken Pevay

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67 Barracuda with a 318, ready for a new radiator. Original one was restored by Glen-Ray Radiators in 2020 before I bought the car. Leaking again soon after I got it so I had it repaired by a local radiator shop, lasted 4 years but sitting over the winter in my heated garage started dripping on ther the floor. Time to cut bait and replace it, The 318 is dressed like the original 273, it does have after market air conditioning, car has been restored to stockexcept for the engine. I'm looking for recommendations for a new replacement, not married to stock look I just want to replace it without making modifications for trouble free motoring. Aluminum vs Copper??? etc...

Engine.jpeg
 
yeah, standard brass double or triple pass, you get to keep your standard top and bottom tanks and support brackets, will be as original as it can be.

I'd also just check that the engine grounding is up to scratch...
electrolysis can damage an alloy radiator really quick
brass/solder less quickly
but you never know

bad grounding and coolant past its use by date might be the right cocktail to promote some internal erosion at the joints...

also check it isn't just a coolant drain tap in the bottom tank that needs replacing they sometime corrode at the seat and don't seal or it could have taken a knock and have cracked,
they can solder on a new one or indeed just solder up the hole....you can take off the bottom pipe to get the coolant out..who needs a tap :)

Dave
 
Why not call Bob at Glen-Ray and talk to him about it? I suspect he would warranty it if you sent it back to him. It's at least worth a call.
 
I have a Cold Case Radiator and the one thing I will add the core stick out closer to the Engine so fan, shroud and accessory fitment can become an issue. The Radiator mounts for the shroud leave a gap that needs filled. Other than that its been a good radiator.
 
Demonx2 said:
Why not call Bob at Glen-Ray and talk to him about it? I suspect he would warranty it if you sent it back to him. It's at least worth a call.
Click to expand...
It was the previous owner that had that work done, don't want to go down that road
 
Dave999 said:
yeah, standard brass double or triple pass, you get to keep your standard top and bottom tanks and support brackets, will be as original as it can be.

I'd also just check that the engine grounding is up to scratch...
electrolysis can damage an alloy radiator really quick
brass/solder less quickly
but you never know

bad grounding and coolant past its use by date might be the right cocktail to promote some internal erosion at the joints...

also check it isn't just a coolant drain tap in the bottom tank that needs replacing they sometime corrode at the seat and don't seal or it could have taken a knock and have cracked,
they can solder on a new one or indeed just solder up the hole....you can take off the bottom pipe to get the coolant out..who needs a tap :)

Dave
Click to expand...
Draintap is dry I'm pulling the radiator now to get a better look where its coming from
 
Dave999 said:
yeah, standard brass double or triple pass, you get to keep your standard top and bottom tanks and support brackets, will be as original as it can be.

I'd also just check that the engine grounding is up to scratch...
electrolysis can damage an alloy radiator really quick
brass/solder less quickly
but you never know

bad grounding and coolant past its use by date might be the right cocktail to promote some internal erosion at the joints...

also check it isn't just a coolant drain tap in the bottom tank that needs replacing they sometime corrode at the seat and don't seal or it could have taken a knock and have cracked,
they can solder on a new one or indeed just solder up the hole....you can take off the bottom pipe to get the coolant out..who needs a tap :)

Dave
Click to expand...


The last thing the OP wants or needs is a double or triple bypass radiator.

Stewartcomponents.com

Read the tech pages.
 
As mentioned, repair the radiator you have.
IMHO, anything other than the early round top radiator in that car would look out of place.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
The last thing the OP wants or needs is a double or triple bypass radiator.

Stewartcomponents.com

Read the tech pages.
Click to expand...
I have

and if i was rocking and High end Gen III hemi well i might spend some money

whilst a lot of what is said on that site makes sense

the guy has a standard motor in a standard car and is trying to make it look standard

decent re-core of what he has does the job.


Dave
 
Ken Pevay said:
67 Barracuda with a 318, ready for a new radiator. Original one was restored by Glen-Ray Radiators in 2020 before I bought the car. Leaking again soon after I got it so I had it repaired by a local radiator shop, lasted 4 years but sitting over the winter in my heated garage started dripping on ther the floor. Time to cut bait and replace it, The 318 is dressed like the original 273, it does have after market air conditioning car has been restored to stockexcept for the engine. I'm looking for recommendations, for a new replacement, not married to stock look I just want to replace it without making modifications for trouble free motoring. Aluminum vs Copper??? etc...

View attachment 1716379850
Click to expand...
Go with an aluminum radiator, better cooling, lighter, and more durable. Brands like Mishimoto or Be Cool are solid choices, no mods needed for your setup.
 

i'll echo what some of the others said up thread. anything but an OG bubble top in that engine bay is gonna look like a lump on a sore dick.

get yours repaired/recored. with the right components: fan/clutch, waterpump and shroud it'll run cool as the underside of your pillow even in the middle of august no matter if it's copper or al-loo-mini-umm.

US radiator sells a good product, and the OER replacement units are decent as well.

OER rads from mancini:
 
Dave999 said:
I have

and if i was rocking and High end Gen III hemi well i might spend some money

whilst a lot of what is said on that site makes sense

the guy has a standard motor in a standard car and is trying to make it look standard

decent re-core of what he has does the job.


Dave
Click to expand...

Ok, but didn’t you suggest a multipass radiator?

Those things are bad news.
 
You are in a good position to choose almost all the recommendations that are being made here! I say this because you likely don't have a high heat motor which means it's likely that a copper brass radiator or a re-core will do the job for you just fine. However, if you look at the prices, I think you'll see the copper brass route will be at a premium and the only advantage of copper brass is Originality. Here are a few additional thoughts based on comments made.

1. CC originally had triple pass radiators. We soon found out they created cavitation that negated the positive affects of the 3 passes. So stay away from triple pass if you can. also, there is no such thing as a dual pass downflow radiator. It's physically impossible.
2. US radiator was sold to a larger radiator manufacturer and moved. A lot of what made them good has been lost in the shuffle. their prices have skyrocketed since. If you decide to go copper/brass, I'd just go the re-core route.
3. There is a general misconception that aluminum is more rigid than copper/brass. Aluminum is quite flexible and therefore much less prone to cracks and leaking. That's why warranties on aluminum rads are much better.
4. If you do go the aluminum route, Not many are made to accept your original metal fan shroud. The CC rad was designed in conjunction with an A-body owner on this site. shoot me a PM and I'll give you a member price.

Whatever you decide, good luck! You have a very nice engine compartment!
 
Johnny Dart said:
As mentioned, repair the radiator you have.
IMHO, anything other than the early round top radiator in that car would look out of place.
Click to expand...
They may look out of place but the round top cant handle the stress of higher pressures often needed to control boiling.
 
Last edited:
klimaso said:
Go with an aluminum radiator, better cooling, lighter, and more durable. Brands like Mishimoto or Be Cool are solid choices, no mods needed for your setup.
Click to expand...
I have the big Be Cool non auto trans radiator in my 400 HP 340 duster. Have dual electric fans, no thermostat in there right now and car runs at 165° all day long when it’s 90-100° out. I should run one of the fans on a thermo switch, cus there is times I forget to turn the fan on at a stop light.

I’d fix the OG radiator if I could. It is expensive, but so is a nice aluminum radiator. Either way you cut the cake, it’s going to cost. Try to find another local shop to fix it.
 
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When I got my 66 Valiant, everything that could be leaking, was leaking. For a quick fix I got a Champion radiator which was excellent. Fit well and works well. I recored the original and will put it back in when the time comes. Hopefully it will be up to the task for a modrately warmed up slant.
 
where is the rad leaking? if it were my car i'f have the stock style one re-cored. i've had my stock style one in the car since 2015 or so and have had no issues with it so i'm not sure what the shops that did you rad did wrong but something osn't right.
 
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