Rallye dash gauge upgrade

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70Duster340

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Has anybody here ever replaced all the gauges in a Rallye dash with modern gauges? I've seen the ammeter to voltmeter conversion, and was impressed. I was wondering if replacing all the gauges is possible without too much modification. I would prefer to use modern gauges to monitor my rebuilt 340.

Thanks much!!!
 
The best looking aftermarket gauges in a rally panel was done by member mullinax95 . Seach might find more info
He and others can tell you it isn't easily done though.
 
I really don't see the point. The ammeter to voltmeter conversion isn't because of the accuracy of the gauge, its because of the design of the ammeter and how it can cut power to the entire car, or cause a fire.

The rest of the gauges function just fine. I installed an aftermarket water temp gauge in my car in addition to my factory gauge because I wanted a readout in degrees, and found that the factory gauge is in fact more accurate. Obviously the factory gauge doesn't list a temperature in degrees, but that's in fact how its calibrated, and it gives a better representation of the actual temp than my aftermarket gauge which reads high. Same for the oil pressure gauge, it works just fine.

Fuel gauge is another story, but keep in mind that it also has the resistor for the rest of the dash. I switched mine over to a IVR3 digital resistor from RTE. http://rt-eng.com/rte/index.php/RTE_limiter

You could switch them over in the same method that the ammeter is done, replacing the "guts" with a modern gauge, but I really don't see the point.
 
How did you know which resistor to use? I checked the list attached to each resistor advertised, but none showed they fit a Duster with a Rallye dash.
 
Check this thread, and check some of posters previous threads on their respective Clusters


http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=95860

DASH6-vi.jpg

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In reference to the RTE webpages.. Bend the little thingy does not work !
I just received yet another rally fuel gauge from a member here that had a external regulator added on in similar manner. Needless to say the other vendors regulator had failed, Because it was in a corrupt circuit. In this condition any solid state regulator would totally fail eventually. They all have built in protection that causes them to cycle off and on again in a corrupt circuit condition. That protection can cycle only X number of times though.
Why in the heck someone with "engineering" in their title hasn't figured this out by now is beyond me. I've been guiding owners out of this chit for more than 7 years now.
The OEM gauges can work well. The hash marks on their screens can be identified to a point. They are only range indicators though so spot on accuracy is not possible.
If you want to read 202.4 degrees water temp, 47.8 p.s.i. oil pressure, 3 gallons to empty, only modern technology will get you there.
Good luck with whatever route you take.
 
70Duster340 said:
So, is there a proper way to install the IVR? Or, am I better off to keep the current one in place?
Click to expand...

I think there's a proper way to do anything. The current one, if original, is a mechanical limiter inside the rally fuel gauge.
At some point you will have to decide... Repair OEM gauges or replace with aftermarket.
 
I use the stock gauges on the rallye dash , so far they are very accurate as far as fuel tank , oil pressure and temp . Fuel gauge works perfectly , when it is on empty I know I have less than 1 gallon and I better find a station in the next 15-20 miles . Had the fuel , speedo and ammeter done by http://premiumdashdecals.com/
and they have worked perfectly for the last 4 years .
 
When I bought my car 6 years ago I did not trust 40 year old gauges , sent them to be rebuilt . Email the people in the post above and ask them what they do to the gauges in the rebuild , they did something when rebuilding the fuel gauge and built up the ammeter to prevent a melt down . I was paranoid about a melt down as it's happened to me on my old 1977 Dodge ramcharger , a few $$ to prevent that is worth it in my books .
 
My memory sux but I think that Ramcharger had a remote shunt measuring amps placed outside the firewall along with several other differences.
 
No 1977 Ramcharger was just about the same as my Dart , at least I think so , sure caught fire behind the dash right quick at 2:00 in the morning on a back road . My memory is going as well .
 
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