Ramp.....

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inkjunkie

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Going to build a ramp for when I need to load the bike onto the small utility trailer. Want the ramp to be 10' long to make pushing the 600 or so pound pig of a bike onto the trailer. Have been using a 2x10 piece of lumber with some funky bracket on the end with a block under the middle of it. Going to weld a plate on the tail end of the trailer so I can hook the ramp on it. Looking for suggestions on what to use. Car ramps are just built with honker angle iron. But they are short and am concerned with what will happen when the ramp is so long......
 
Going to build a ramp for when I need to load the bike onto the small utility trailer. Want the ramp to be 10' long to make pushing the 600 or so pound pig of a bike onto the trailer. Have been using a 2x10 piece of lumber with some funky bracket on the end with a block under the middle of it. Going to weld a plate on the tail end of the trailer so I can hook the ramp on it. Looking for suggestions on what to use. Car ramps are just built with honker angle iron. But they are short and am concerned with what will happen when the ramp is so long......

I have a set of steel arched ramps that are 8' long. They are made out of square tubing and expanded metal. They are not hard to handle, are strong enough to load a 1927 Buick and not give. I will try to get you a picture tomorrow. If if forget, remind me as I am feeling pretty bad right now.
 
Google search failed me on a picture. They are at least 18 years old and were used when I got them. They were factory manufactured and used to have the decal on them. I picked them up at a garage sale in Lincoln Nebraska. They are one peice so there is nothing to give.
 
Would like to build 3 of them so that I can used my pallet jack for unloading the pellets for our stove. Be a lot easier to unload the pallet when it is on the floor then when it is on the trailer. 50 bags per pallet, normally 4 pallets for us and 3 for my neighbor LeRoy. When you feel up to it if you could get me a picture of your ramps I would appreciate it. Need to build new ramps for the car trailer as well. When I picked up the skid steer last year it bent the snot out of the ramps, was short enough that all 4 wheels were on the ramp. I had a buddy bend them back with his fork lift but they are twisted enough that getting them in/out from under the trailer is a royal pain in the arse.....
 
Would like to build 3 of them so that I can used my pallet jack for unloading the pellets for our stove. Be a lot easier to unload the pallet when it is on the floor then when it is on the trailer. 50 bags per pallet, normally 4 pallets for us and 3 for my neighbor LeRoy. When you feel up to it if you could get me a picture of your ramps I would appreciate it. Need to build new ramps for the car trailer as well. When I picked up the skid steer last year it bent the snot out of the ramps, was short enough that all 4 wheels were on the ramp. I had a buddy bend them back with his fork lift but they are twisted enough that getting them in/out from under the trailer is a royal pain in the arse.....

Please, be sure to remind me if I forget.
 
Doug,

I rented a motorcyle trailer from U-Haul and the way it's set up is perfect. The ramp is made of expanded steel and the full width of the trailer. The beauty of this is that you can walk up the ramp with your bike and never worry about it feeling "tippy" as the center gravity rises above your body. The trailer itself is also very, very low. IIRC, not much more than 18-24" above the ground. The ramp is hinged (acts as a flow through tailgate) so you just pull 2 pins and drop it down.

They asked me how I liked it and I said "Where can I buy one?". :) They got a kick out of that. Anyway, I asked if I could drop by sometime to take pics and dimensions so I could build my own.....
 
Aluminum. ;)

fly-racing_61-0722.jpg

My grandparents bought me one of these when I was a kid with my first motocross bike. The curve (mine is curved much more sharply, however) is designed to facilitate low Hogs, and the staunchness of the materials used assures that a 10lb 8ft aluminum ladder will hold up to the weight of a big fat Harley laying on it. :)

Mine is slightly different in that it has four fingers at the top and has some half-round roughly 3/8" horizontal straked alu bars for traction with four main 1/4" thick square stock sticks, and some 1/4" thick square stock "rungs" like as seen above, but sunk down a bit (because the 3/8" half-round traction bars are flush with the top and the rest is sunk down about 1/4") and spaced about one every 3 feet.

Was only 100 bucks, but that was in the late 90's, so probably 200 bucks now. I currently use it for a shelf in the attic, as I don't have any bikes back home that need hauling, and my mini-truck is low enough to not need ramps (and you all think lowering trucks is foolish ;))....

OH! I almost forgot! It has about 3-4ft of 1/4" steel cable looped around the top end with an S-hook on the other end; it's designed to hook somewhere in your bed and provide security so the beesh don't slip out from under you while you ride up it. :)


- CK
 
Doug,

I rented a motorcyle trailer from U-Haul and the way it's set up is perfect. The ramp is made of expanded steel and the full width of the trailer. The beauty of this is that you can walk up the ramp with your bike and never worry about it feeling "tippy" as the center gravity rises above your body. The trailer itself is also very, very low. IIRC, not much more than 18-24" above the ground. The ramp is hinged (acts as a flow through tailgate) so you just pull 2 pins and drop it down.

They asked me how I liked it and I said "Where can I buy one?". :) They got a kick out of that. Anyway, I asked if I could drop by sometime to take pics and dimensions so I could build my own.....
Very well might a ramp/gate for the little trailer. Only problem is I used it for hauling trash to the dump, tow it behind the tractor when I am trimming trees etc. Need to make sure that what ever I do is either easily removed or does not get in the way for other things.
 
Aluminum. ;)

fly-racing_61-0722.jpg

My grandparents bought me one of these when I was a kid with my first motocross bike. The curve (mine is curved much more sharply, however) is designed to facilitate low Hogs, and the staunchness of the materials used assures that a 10lb 8ft aluminum ladder will hold up to the weight of a big fat Harley laying on it. :)

Mine is slightly different in that it has four fingers at the top and has some half-round roughly 3/8" horizontal straked alu bars for traction with four main 1/4" thick square stock sticks, and some 1/4" thick square stock "rungs" like as seen above, but sunk down a bit (because the 3/8" half-round traction bars are flush with the top and the rest is sunk down about 1/4") and spaced about one every 3 feet.

Was only 100 bucks, but that was in the late 90's, so probably 200 bucks now. I currently use it for a shelf in the attic, as I don't have any bikes back home that need hauling, and my mini-truck is low enough to not need ramps (and you all think lowering trucks is foolish ;))....

OH! I almost forgot! It has about 3-4ft of 1/4" steel cable looped around the top end with an S-hook on the other end; it's designed to hook somewhere in your bed and provide security so the beesh don't slip out from under you while you ride up it. :)


- CK

Looked into getting an aluminum ramp, but they are pretty damn pricey. With a bit of luck I will not have to load the bike on the trailer......now there is a delusional thought.....
 
Wish I had some advice, doug. I've built some ramps, always steel, or steel/ plywood, etc, and they 'get heavy' fast. (I can't weld aluminum)
 
I've been using 2x10 or 2x12 x 8' or 10' with these ends for years.
 

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Wish I had some advice, doug. I've built some ramps, always steel, or steel/ plywood, etc, and they 'get heavy' fast. (I can't weld aluminum)


Guess I now have a reason to edjewmekate myself on how to melt aluminum. I have a tig welder, just need to practice some...
 
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