Rattle between block and trans?

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The shaft bushings wear out, kind or rare actually, I can change them but unless it is something special I strip them for parts. Biggest thing with the dist is making sure the curve is close or the same. Years really do not matter that much, just did one for a member that is going into a 273 right now then into a 340 and all he has to do is change the vac advance, actually amazing what you can do to these with oem parts.
 
I get a lot of those in missing the tags, cardone is usually no issues, but no way all of the curves are the same 72-80. As long as it runs good right, now a 100% resto they want it perfect, just did one for a guy, bet he spent 2-300 on the core dist. The curve specs are in the fsm if you need to see them.
 
halifaxhops said:
I get a lot of those in missing the tags, cardone is usually no issues, but no way all of the curves are the same 72-80. As long as it runs good right, now a 100% resto they want it perfect, just did one for a guy, bet he spent 2-300 on the core dist. The curve specs are in the fsm if you need to see them.
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Whoa, $2-300? Whoa, : ) I am certain that you could most likely correct the curve in this thing. I don't know what I'm doing with that. I know it runs on a weight system right? But how to swap them out and what they should be??? IDK. If I got another Cordone Dist and sent it to you, what would you charge to correct the curve in it? Do you just need to know that it is going in a 1975 360, with a Holley 650, Peformer Intake, the cam specs, and headers? Seems like they would all cause it to be different than stock? If you would, how much would it run me, I would love to have the correct advance curve in it. It runs "good", but I'm sure it could be better. It seems like it is either too advanced to too retarded.

Thanks
 
What is the fsm? Do you have a link to it?

I will do it myself if I can. Just never did it before, but that never stopped me, hahaha
 
70DusterBob said:
Whoa, $2-300? Whoa, : ) I am certain that you could most likely correct the curve in this thing. I don't know what I'm doing with that. I know it runs on a weight system right? But how to swap them out and what they should be??? IDK. If I got another Cordone Dist and sent it to you, what would you charge to correct the curve in it? Do you just need to know that it is going in a 1975 360, with a Holley 650, Peformer Intake, the cam specs, and headers? Seems like they would all cause it to be different than stock? If you would, how much would it run me, I would love to have the correct advance curve in it. It runs "good", but I'm sure it could be better. It seems like it is either too advanced to too retarded.

Thanks
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Man yours is no where near that 20-40 tops that was a year specific roadrunner 440 six pack, wish I had those. Yours prob my standard 75 and the core price of around 20 each unless the curve is weird. Vac advances are on you all over the place you prob have one.
 
halifaxhops said:
Man yours is no where near that 20-40 tops that was a year specific roadrunner 440 six pack, wish I had those. Yours prob my standard 75 and the core price of around 20 each unless the curve is weird. Vac advances are on you all over the place you prob have one.
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Yeah, the engine is hard to time. On that last one I took off, before I took it off, I tried to get a reading of the timing mark, it was all over the place, you are right. I haven't checked this one, I just put it in the same position the other one was in then had to retard it just about a quarter inch. It runs much, much better than before, but I haven't bothered to check it with a light as I go by ping instead. If it pings, I back it off till it doesn't. This time it was hard to start when hot and in the same position as the other one was in, so I backed it off and it runs okay, but I bet your rebuild would do wonders for my engine.

Can you pm me your contact info? I will have enough to do it shortly, like tomorrow. How do you know what the curve needs to be?

Thanks,
Bob
 
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