Reality check: A body rear ends

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8. 25 is plenty strong and generally NOT expensive. I would look for that. by the way 8 3/4 came in hemi auto cars, so yes the 8 3/4 will hold up!

keep your eyes out for 65 b body 8 3/4 , slightly wider than the A, just move perches a little. much cheaper than the a 8 3/4. don't consider the 64 as it has the nut on end on axle and different critter. my 2 cents..
 
Jarlaxle said:
Actually, it has several other advantages: mostly, an abundant supply of late-model axles and parts in almost any salvage yard! When was the last time you saw an 8.75" axle with a 3.55 Sure Grip in a junkyard? I could probably find an 8.25" with a 3.55 SG in a day!
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4 weeks ago (the last time I went).
 
Lelo Dart said:
65-67 B body 8 3/4" is a possibility also. Can get those a lot cheaper than A bodies. Some minor work and some custom backspaced wheels or Mustang wheels and your good to go.
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I know there will be a disagreement on perch location, but this is literally a direct bolt in, and since you are working on a car with large wheel wells, there is no back spacing issue at all.

66/67 B body axles complete with usually a 2.94 open 741 carrier can be had VERY easily for $100-$250.

Add a used SG carrier for $250-$500, depending on what kind of deal you can find.

I ran one on my moderate build 360 73 Duster for years with no mods other than swapping in a 3.23 SG carrier. I drove it hard, including some drag strip time and had zero issues.
 
YY1 said:
I know there will be a disagreement on perch location, but this is literally a direct bolt in,
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Lol, yup, a direct bolt in if you pull the springs outward. IMO moving the perches in is a better solution.
 
It's 3/4 of an inch.

vs grinding and welding (if you have a heavy welder and the skill, or the cash)

I was able to do the swap all by myself. Nothing excessive about lining things up.

My car was back on the road in about 3 hours, and behaved like it came that way from the factory.

Bottom line is it's the single cheapest solution, and one of the easiest and most effective.
 
if you want to half *** it like that then go for it. it still doesn't mean its the proper way to do it.
 
YY1 said:
I know there will be a disagreement on perch location ...

...I drove it hard, including some drag strip time and had zero issues.
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:banghead:
 
So here's the haul...

IMG_3754_zpsa9hwyui3-1.jpg


8.75" rear, 741 case, drum-to-drum, w/ rear leafs and shock plates.

V8 K-member w/ discs, PS, PB.

Thanks to FABO member Rocky_JS and his friend Jon for making this happen!

:thumblef:
 
Besides the Mav-wreck/Vomit rears of the 70s, 64-66 Rustclangs, and the first gen Grenade/Monarc are A-body bolt-ins. The best A-body bolt-in/Phord rear to get comes of the Lincoln Versailles; it has rear disks. Check to make sure the rear has a five bolt axle end rather than a four bolt.
 
dozer556 said:
So here's the haul...

IMG_3754_zpsa9hwyui3-1.jpg


8.75" rear, 741 case, drum-to-drum, w/ rear leafs and shock plates.

V8 K-member w/ discs, PS, PB.

Thanks to FABO member Rocky_JS and his friend Jon for making this happen!

:thumblef:
Click to expand...

Nice score! Saves you a lot of time spent scrounging, trust me.
 
Dartnut said:
Too bad you don't live closer.
I have a few 8 1/4'' rears that i would like to sell.
Shipping would be outrageous though.
Nobody wants them around here, it's a body 8 3/4'' or nothing........
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Or in my case a DANA 60 lol...:D

As soon as I have a D60 fitted in my Dart,my 8 3/4 will be for sale. Buddy supposed to have one for me this spring.

Too bad Im in Canada.Be a pretty long haul just for an axle.
 
451Cuda said:
Just buy a C-body rear and send the housing and axles to Moser. Strong, big bolt pattern, big brakes. Upgrade to the gears you want and a sure-grip later on.
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Not every C body has resplineable axles. I scored a 67 C body rear axle complete drum to drum with 742 center chunk. Bought complete junkyard fresh for $100. When i tore it down to get it shortened i found it had tapered axles , and these are not resplineable. I bought a set of A body forgings with green bearings from dr diff. I scored an A body housing for $100, so i used that instead. I still have the C body housing, i will be keeping it for a future project.

Granted this chunk will need to get better gears than the 2.73 ratio freeway gears its got now, plus it needs a sure grip. I am torn between a readily available powertrax locking differential, or a rebuildable clutch type which is harder to find nowadays. A borg warner cone type / auburn type diff is ok, but not recomnended for high hp applications.

You can buy the spring perches cheap from jegs. I think i payed $15 for a pair of MP weld in spring perches for a 3" axle tube. If you are into fabbing, get a shop like was stated above. Moser engineering to shorten the axle. This needs to be done with a fixture to keep the ends straight.

If you look around , theres lots of C body 8.75 rears still out there. Keep looking.

Matt
 
moparmat2000 said:
Not every C body has resplineable axles. I scored a 67 C body rear axle complete drum to drum with 742 center chunk. Bought complete junkyard fresh for $100. When i tore it down to get it shortened i found it had tapered axles , and these are not resplineable. I bought a set of A body forgings with green bearings from dr diff. I scored an A body housing for $100, so i used that instead. I still have the C body housing, i will be keeping it for a future project.

Granted this chunk will need to get better gears than the 2.73 ratio freeway gears its got now, plus it needs a sure grip. I am torn between a readily available powertrax locking differential, or a rebuildable clutch type which is harder to find nowadays. A borg warner cone type / auburn type diff is ok, but not recomnended for high hp applications.

You can buy the spring perches cheap from jegs. I think i payed $15 for a pair of MP weld in spring perches for a 3" axle tube. If you are into fabbing, get a shop like was stated above. Moser engineering to shorten the axle. This needs to be done with a fixture to keep the ends straight.

If you look around , theres lots of C body 8.75 rears still out there. Keep looking.

Matt
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You still got a housing, 742 chunk, and 11" brakes for $100...damn good deal.
 
dozer556 said:
Now that I have my hands on the Barracuda, I can begin planning the up-n-coming build.

Short version: swapping out the S6 + manual for a 360 + auto. The idea is to have a fun weekend car / fair weather driver that is pretty reliable and can still scoot.

(I know there are those who are going to tell me that the S6 is totally reliable, and that I can boost it for fun, but the engine discussion will happen at another time.)

The 7.25" isn't going to last long behind a V8. I'm not a total Mopar purist, but I would like to make the swap as bolt-in as possible, so that leaves me with the following:


  • The 8.75", which is probably overkill for a healthy 360 (but might come in handy if I ever decide to throw a 383 under the hood).
  • The 8.25", which is underrated and overlooked IMHO, and could live happily behind a 360 with reasonable care.

I know about the Ford 8.8 as well, but like I said...looking mainly for bolt-in. But I could be persuaded, if time becomes an issue (more on that later).

I've seen a number of 8.75s available on eBay and craigslist, running from $550 for just the carrier to $900 for the carrier with axles and bearings. Totally complete and rebuilt units are out of the question, with some of them topping $2500. I don't mind spending SOME money on a decent setup, but that's a little rich for the scope of this project. I found one fellow on eBay who wants 1k plus freight shipping for a complete A-body 8.75" with posi, but it looks like it's been sitting out in the open for a little while.

I haven't come across too many A-body 8.25s in my search just yet.

One thing I am doing is looking for suitable donors on craigslist, hoping that I'll come across a good rear end, and some front discs out of a later A-body...but that could be a long wait. And not necessarily a cheap option, either.

It's really a question of money and time. I would like to have this car up and running by late April, early May, so that's is a consideration. I do have a little bundle of cash set aside for things "right now", but don't want to blow too much of it on something that's not needed, while shorting the build somewhere else.

So, turning to the Mopar crowd for opinions. Spend the $$$ for a good 8.75" setup? Wait to find a decent 8.25"? Or maybe take the junkyard 8.8" Ford option, and just get 'er done?
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I have read on this forum about using a 68 or 69 B Body 8 1/4 it's only about 2 inches longer than. The A body rear. You would have to remove the spring perches and move them 1/2 inch inward on each side. Or spread the springs by 1/2 inch on Both sides. I'll see if I can find the link for you. Most people would disagree on spreading the springs, but I've only considered it never actually have done it though.
 
I just finished the Jeep rear brakes on a 8.25 it was really easy.
 
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