rear brakes won't bleed

[moparfanatic56]

I did read an older post on this but still a little unclear on my problem. I did a front disc conversion, have all new lines, master cyclinder, proportioning valve, t -block ect. I get a good stream out of the front but little at the rear, there is fluid. I did break the line loose at the rubber hose before the t-block and got some fluid there but not a strong stream. I did read something about resetting the proportioning valve but not positive on what to break loose on it to do this. I know that you should hear a click when it resets, so could someone post a picture of the fitting that needs to be broke loose. This is for a 72 dart. Thanks for any help it will be deeply appreciated.

 

[moparfanatic56]

Here is my pv

 

[Just Send It]

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder prior to installing? If you're bleeding by the pump-and-hold method, there could be a lot of air trapped in those new lines. It could take a while.

If the MC has been primed and you start bleeding the wheel furthest from the MC and systematically work to the front wheels, the air will have to push out eventually. Or you're sucking air in from somewhere.

Is your distribution block made for front/rear disk brakes or front disk/rear drum?

 

[moparfanatic56]

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder prior to installing? If you're bleeding by the pump-and-hold method, there could be a lot of air trapped in those new lines. It could take a while.

If the MC has been primed and you start bleeding the wheel furthest from the MC and systematically work to the front wheels, the air will have to push out eventually. Or you're sucking air in from somewhere.

Is your distribution block made for front/rear disk brakes or front disk/rear drum?

The MC was bench bled prior to installing and I am doing it the old fashioned way of pumping and opening the bleed valve starting at the pass side rear. The db was listed for disc/drum brakes, I did have a couple of the fittings that were leaking at the db and the t block but tightened them up to cure that. On my initial bleed attempt I didn't get as much air as I thought I should have, I have tried bleeding them about a half a dozen times with the same results.

 

[Dfr360cuda]

Gravity brake bleed not working

I got the tool but haven’t used it yet.
The rubber hose on the bleeder into a bottle of brake fluid works.

 

[sireland67]

Dont pump the brakes, push the fluid out.
Open the bleeder, have a helper push the petal to the floor, tighten the bleeder.
Pumping the brakes just creates air in the system.

 

[Inertia]

Set the emergency, it stops the shoes moving back and forth.

 

[Murray]

Good chance that the safety switch in the distribution block has been tripped allowing front brakes but blocking the rears. Plunger must be re-centered to bleed.

 

[moparfanatic56]

Good chance that the safety switch in the distribution block has been tripped allowing front brakes but blocking the rears. Plunger must be re-centered to bleed.

What is the process to re center the plunger? I read that you open the front bleeder and push the brake pedal until you hear the click in distribution block so i am assuming that means the bleeder on one of the front brakes correct?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Get a small jar like a pickle jar. Fill it about halfway with fluid. Get a length of vacuum hose that will fit tightly over the bleeder fitting. Put the other end into the jar with fluid all the way to the bottom. Start with the right rear. Open the bleeder valve. Have a friend pump the brake pedal until you no longer have air bubbles in the fluid in the jar. Rinse and repeat for the driver's side. Done.

 

[Inertia]

The brake imbalance switch is self centering, it doesn't need to be re-centered as do gm and ferd stuff.
If the switch didn't self center, - every time you used linelock, you would have to get outta the car to recenter it, that's why the dash brake warning/imbalance lite goes out when you release the l/lock switch.
The 2 springs center the shuttle/switch.
You guys work on too many alternate vehicles, lol

 

[Dana67Dart]

Plunger must be re-centered to bleed.

Distro/ brake warning/ combo valves ALL are self centering by design with springs.

Look at the cutaways in the FSM.

 

[Ricks70Duster340]

I did read an older post on this but still a little unclear on my problem. I did a front disc conversion, have all new lines, master cyclinder, proportioning valve, t -block ect. I get a good stream out of the front but little at the rear, there is fluid. I did break the line loose at the rubber hose before the t-block and got some fluid there but not a strong stream. I did read something about resetting the proportioning valve but not positive on what to break loose on it to do this. I know that you should hear a click when it resets, so could someone post a picture of the fitting that needs to be broke loose. This is for a 72 dart. Thanks for any help it will be deeply appreciated.

I replaced the MC on my van years ago and could not get things bled. Went thru a couple of large bottles of fluid. Found the new MC was defective. Replaced and done.

 

[AJ/FormS]

Make sure your stinking compensating ports are working! If your pushrod is too long, preventing the ports from opening on the back stroke, lol, yur gonna be there for a very very long time. Then;
Make sure your M/C is plumbed correctly;
If a Mopar unit; the front reservoir goes to the rear brakes via the P-valve section of the Combination valve, which should be to the bottom.
If you plumb it backwards with discs you won't get enough pedal travel to push fluid to the back, and the fluid will just shuttle back and forth in the line. If you do manage to get it working like this, the car will stop just fine, at modest pedal pressure. But with more pedal pressure, and the fronts now proportioned, the back brakes will lock up and there goes your steering. hang on an enjoy the ride, lol.
Post #7 will definitely help.
If you think yur short of pedal travel for purposes of bleeding, simply disconnect the line to the front brakes at the M/C, and reinstall the bench-bleeder hose, then bury it in the reservoir, to prevent splash. now try it.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

I had a person with the same problem. The push rod on the master was not coming all the way back when released. The brake switch was holding it from fully releasing on manual brakes. I would guess that is the problem and something to check.

You also see this on power brakes more often due to the plunger in the booster not adjusted properly.