rear end advice

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duster wonder

duster wonder

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no not women, sorry. someone said my back tires were wobblin around, and being that they are cast aluminum rims i would imagine the axles are bent. im also going through bearings pretty fast so, instead of new rims and tires i want to fix this first. 83/4 with 9 inch drums, but i want to measure before im sure there 9 inchers.

what should i get for a diff? says 10 bolt should i rip apart the axle to check the old one? can i use the old gears depending on condition? im sure i dont need one, but there is not a sure grip in there, i can tell cuz in the snow only one wheel spins, and know that i have hp theres no such thing as traction. looking at this guy http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aub-542051/overview/year/1973/make/plymouth/model/duster

or http://www.jegs.com/i/Powertrax/754/1240-LR/10002/-1

and these axles http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sag-pa5298/overview/year/1973/make/plymouth/model/duster
 
If you're eating bearings chances are your housing is bent. I'm having the same problem with my Jeep right now and replacing the axles ain't fixing it.....
 
I wouldn't think the entire housing is bent. Probably just the flanges...if you have a circle track car builder in your area he should have a tool to square up the flange ends. ( after he cuts about a quarter inch off each end of your housing.)
 
When I saw the title I was like "AH YEAH bring on the chicks!" Then I read the first sentence thought what a let down. Immediately after that I thought a member needs help and from what you've stated I would have to agree, sounds like a bent housing.
 
haha i figured someone would read that in a dirty way.

well thats not the best of news, housings arent cheap. anyway to check if its bent? if the housing is bent why would that cause the tire to wobble around?
 
If you have a dial indicator with a magnetic base you can take the wheels and drums off and set up the dial indicator and spin the axles to see if they are bent. If you don't have a dial indicator and plan on installing a sure grip you need one for that so now's the time to buy it. You can get a cheap setup at Harbor Freight for about $30-35 that'll do the job.

Most A-body rearends were 10" brakes
 
ir3333 said:
..any factory weights on those drums causing interference...
Click to expand...

on the face where the rim matches up? none that i noticed but i will take a closer look. i know somethings not right because there is a wheel spacer between the drum and axle shaft, boy i wanta have a talk with the guy who owned this car before me :banghead:
 
There shouldn't be a spacer between the drum face and the axle shaft.
Could be the problem.
Wheel spacers go between the drum outside face and the wheel.
 
I wonder if it has drums that are too wide for the brake shoes, thus the reason for spacers between the drum and axles. Definetly not the way to do it right.
 
fishy68 said:
I wonder if it has drums that are too wide for the brake shoes, thus the reason for spacers between the drum and axles. Definetly not the way to do it right.
Click to expand...

not really the shoes, but the outside ring of the drum rub the "cover" back brakes arent hooked up anyhow

are there different size drums?
 
duster wonder said:
not really the shoes, but the outside ring of the drum rub the "cover" back brakes arent hooked up anyhow

are there different size drums?
Click to expand...

Yeah there are several different Mopar drums. A-body drums are generally 1.75" wide. E bodies came with 2" and 2-1/2" wide brakes. B-bodies came with 2", 2-1/2", and 3" wide brakes. Same for trucks. Yours could be a simple drum mismatch or a complete hodgepodge of parts.

Is it small or large bolt pattern?

Just noticed you said the drums rub the backing plates. That's a sure sign the drums are too wide.
 
The housing can bend, just as grumps jeeps is bent.

Both can be straightened, and both can be braced.

In the Jeeps case if it's a d-35 and you do off-road a lot you could get the D-44 for it
 
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