Rear End
- Thread starter Vroom72
- Start date
-
65goldcuda
@65_Cuda w/408/727/Dana 60
This is a GREAT diagram. I found it very helpful! I saved it for future reference. Thanks for posting this!
Vroom72
Member
The tranny is strong and the engine should be stought. I believe I will have to buy a torque converter as well... I personally think a 8 3/4 should do the trick I'm just trying to get outsiders prospectives. And no need to buy me lunch, it's free haha. I mean we don't beef up cars to drive them like grannies. Someone has to show the Shitstangs who the boss is
The 8 3/4 will be fine, even if you do make it to 400 hp or beyond. It would be the safe bet.
The 8.25" would be ok for a street car, but if you beat on it you might cause yourself some grief down the road. With an automatic the 8.25 should hold up though unless you really abuse it.
The 8.25" would be ok for a street car, but if you beat on it you might cause yourself some grief down the road. With an automatic the 8.25 should hold up though unless you really abuse it.
tarvin890
tarvin890
i blew an 8 1/4 to peices in a scamp.... had a 904 with 318 small 484 cam and stock internals... 360 heads.. BOOOMMM!!!!!
salinasjoel
Learning Daily
It seems like you have a good car fund going so you may as well go 8 3/4". If you're going disc all the way around I would recommend going large bolt pattern to give infinite wheel options
tarvin890
tarvin890
Listen to pops...get a 8 3/4 save yourself time and money...do it right now and forget about it later!
And yet they worked just fine in the 71+ B-bodies with 383/727's, even though that combo would weigh more, have more horsepower, and have a crap load more torque than that Scamp.
The 8.25" is more than capable of handling a sub-300hp 318 like the one you described. Either yours was in poor repair to begin with, or you abused the crap out of it. You can break anything if you try hard enough.
bdusted440
Well-Known Member
My 74 duster has a 7 1/4 in it stated out with a 318 and 904 and now has a 5.9 360 mag and a beefed up 904 and 2800 stall. The rear has held out fine to a lot of abuse. For four years. Although I just bought a 8 3/4 with a 323 suregrip for it. Im doing a spring relocate on it and a mini tub.
leblanc
member 2883
When you add up all that you are spending on the 318, you will find out that if you spend the same amount on a 360 you will get a lot more power. but we are dealing with a 318 so with all your add ons, my opinion is that an 8 1/4 rear will suffice for you. Your esult will not be big power so the more affordable 8 1/4 should do fine.
for your personal reference: 7.25--max 175-200 HP
8.25--max 350-400 HP
8.75--max 550-650 HP
This is my opinion...
PS Mopar drive shafts are strong, you will not need a new one just have it cut I believe it is 1.5" for the 8.25 rear. I still run the slant 6 drive shaft with my 360 and it never said boo, just make your U-joints are good ones. I run 255/60R 15 but with an open rear.
for your personal reference: 7.25--max 175-200 HP
8.25--max 350-400 HP
8.75--max 550-650 HP
This is my opinion...
PS Mopar drive shafts are strong, you will not need a new one just have it cut I believe it is 1.5" for the 8.25 rear. I still run the slant 6 drive shaft with my 360 and it never said boo, just make your U-joints are good ones. I run 255/60R 15 but with an open rear.
Dart Swinger 72
Active Member
I would go with a 60 or the 8 3/4 either one will be able to handle future mods . might cost extra now but you won't have to do it twice!
FJ5
Well-Known Member
Before you buy that fuel injection. Check out FI TECH fuel injection. Fitechefi.com
tarvin890
tarvin890
can only tell you what happened.... had a well built 904 with a rather mellow engine... was on the main drag in my town hit second under hard acceleration and bang sounded like a shotgun... limped to side and rear was in piece internally.... so yes it can happen and you say i abused the crap out of it... isnt that what street racing and drag racing does...? those many cycles of hard hits? good god.. lets remember thats what this sport is about to some of us.... gettting some power to the ground and if that doesnt abuse the rear then...
tarvin890
tarvin890
fine that use his advice go with an 8 1/4...... if they are so good then why do we use 8 3/4 and 60's.......... BECAUSE THEY TAKE THE ABUSE OF HORSEPOWER.
I didn't say it didn't happen, or that it couldn't be done.
You can break anything. This goes for 8 3/4's and Dana's as well, people break them all the time. This is especially true if proper maintenance is ignored, or never checked. Who knows what happened to that 8.25" over the course of it's life? Did you ever pull it apart? Check tolerances and wear? These things don't last forever, and we're talking about 40+ year old parts now. A well maintained 8.25" is more than capable of handling the combination you described, a sub-300 hp 318 in what should be a relatively light car with street tires.
And street racing is for morons. Period. Yes, I've done it, and yes, I was being a moron at the time.
I don't know, why do people use nodular 8 3/4 cases? weld back braces on the housings? Why do people put aftermarket axles in their Dana 60's? Why do they even make Dana 70's if the 60's are so good?
It's simply a matter of application. 8 3/4's and Dana's break too. I never said the 8.25" was the best option, I just said that it was an option based on what the OP said his combo was going to be. In fact, I said the 8 3/4 would be the best option, and that an 8.25" could cause him trouble down the road with enough abuse.
65goldcuda
@65_Cuda w/408/727/Dana 60
I am with KrazyKuda on the correct rear end choice for this project! (thanks for making me laugh...).
tarvin890
tarvin890
I was 25 when i "street raced" that was the late 80s early 90s.....yes its stupid as hell. we know that now that we are old.... point being if your going to spend money on a rear... why the heck would you spend money time and energy on a 8 1/4? ...like they say..do it right the 1st time. if 8 1/4's were so wonderful we wouldnt seek the 8 3/4. IMO not to metion ez center section gearing changes...maybe move the springs inboard while the rear is out.
If you've got the coin to spend, it's worth the upgrade to build a Dana. I talked to Dr. Diff and he said it would cost about $800 more to build a NEW Dana rear than to build up a used 8 3/4 to the same level. It's bullet proof and nothing else says bad *** like seeing that cover poking out under the gas tank.
tarvin890
tarvin890
If you've got the coin to spend, it's worth the upgrade to build a Dana. I talked to Dr. Diff and he said it would cost about $800 more to build a NEW Dana rear than to build up a used 8 3/4 to the same level. It's bullet proof and nothing else says bad *** like seeing that cover poking out under the gas tank.
NICE! I AGREE IF YOU HAVE THE $$$$$$$$ dana look intimidating. wonder wonder the weight difference is between dana 60 and 8 3/4?
Dart Swinger 72
Active Member
If I had to guess the dana60 complete is about 250-300 lbs. I carried it across my garage and installed it myself. Didn't weigh it but its right around there that's with disc calipers and stainless axles
I just completed this swap on my dart. Had the 7.25 that was a trooper. My 360 is putting out well over 400 hp and it somehow lasted for a few months. Throwing in the 8.75 was super easy, and the 4.10 gears are way more fun than the 2.76 gears that the 7.25 had.
That was given to me when I had a similar question.
I am only passing on what was passed to me.
I believe it was Cracked that gave it to me to check mine out.
stroked340
Well-Known Member
A properly built(keyword properly) 8 3/4 will handle just about anything you put in front of it..dana's are NOT bulletproof seen more then a few "grenade" at the track
ops:
ops:DoctorDiff
Well-Known Member
All else being equal, a 35 spline Strange-Dana 60 street/strip rear weighs 45 lbs more than a 30 spline 8.75" rear.
-
