Rear main seal - 318 LA leaking ALOT

[cuda67]

Alright this is a question I would like help with. What is the simplest way to replace the rear main seal on this engine. It is leaking real bad. I have a basic idea, I'm just wanting to find the easiest way to do this. I'll be doing it like most of us do, on my back on jack stands. It is in my 67 Barracuda. I'm not a mechanic other than a shade tree.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[3404spdvaliant]

Pretty much by raising the motor up [watch out for distributor cap against fire wall] and drop the pan/tranny check plate and rear main cap then if your using the lipped seal you have 2 choices either dab seal ends/cap face with rtv and go that route or cut the lips off the seal end, dab rtv to the ends and across the cap face mating surface then off set the seals so that one protrudes out one side while the other protrudes out the other side therefore creating a lil insurance to the seals leaking with seal gaps lined with cap.

 

[cuda67]

Thanks for the information, it is helpful. One thing I am not to sure of. Will the pan clear the steering linkage that is directly under the pan or will I have to break it loose?

 

[3404spdvaliant]

Yea, I got ahead of my self while typing.

You need to remove the center link.

 

[cuda67]

Well, I hope you had a good Turkey day. I really do appreciate the heads up on my question. You just helped to confirm my thoughts and my recollection. I was going to have it done but the price of 365 dollars labor seemed a little high. I realize it is a little work, but the shop is not laying on their back and it doesn't really take that much time if you have a lift. Not looking forward to this but what the hay, I'll save about 365 dollars and do it myself.

Thanks

 

[340sFastback]

Here is a write up I keep around because this comes up a lot:

I did it on my car with the engine in the car. Hardest
part is getting the steering linkage out of the way.
My car has the stock 340 exhaust manifolds and 727
trans. Here is what I did:

1) Jack up the car and support on stands.
2) Remove the steering center link.
3) Drain coolant. Disconnect upper and lower radiator
hoses.
4) Unclip distributor cap and move forward of
firewall.
4) Remove both motor mount to k frame bolts.
5) Jack up motor and slide 1" thick pieces of wood
between the k frame and the motor mounts.
6) Lower the engine onto the wood which is now wedged
in between the k frame and motor mounts.
7) Remove trans to engine brackets if so equipped and
remove trans dust cover.
8) Remove oil pan bolts and pan can now be wiggled out
without too much trouble.
9) Remove oil pump from rear main.
10) Remove rear main cap.
11) I had a rubber seal in mine so I just pushed on it
and it spun around where I could grab it and pull it
out. If you have a rope seal in there that could be
very difficult to remove but an old hard rubber seal
will pop right out.
12) At this point I let the car sit over night in
order for the oil to stop dripping.
13) Put upper half of rubber main in the block. It
will slide right in there. Make sure lip is facing
front of the car or you will be doing this job twice.
14) Clean all surfaces with Brake Parts Cleaner and
make sure they are completely dry.
15) Put other half of seal in rear cap. This seal will
have "ears" that span the length of the cap.
16) Put a small film of RTV onto the surface of the
rear main cap where it meets the block.
17) Bolt rear main into place.
18) Reinstall pump, oil pan, steering linkage etc.

If all goes well you will be enjoying a bone dry rear
main for many years to come. Definitely worth the
trouble in my opinion.