REbuild advice on parts

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Just an accident I am sure. It's not like we cannot help anyway.
 
Some ideas to muddy the waters...
- 2.02 valves will give a performance gain just by moving the seats out and if your shop uses seat cutters and you can get a 5 angle deal done as part of the valve job - it will give you "free" power. You won't feel any loss. I'd much rather run 2.02s then sink 1.88s.
- Victor makes a thicker-than-Felpro stock replacement head gasket.
- Anything around 9.5-9.8:1 static is fine to run on pump fuel as long as the cam has a duration of at least 220° @ .050. Depending on the quality of workmanship and your tuning ability it might be 89 octane, or 91 octane, but they will run fine on it... Including the 10% ethanol blend we have around me.
- You will not have any quench affect using an open chambered head without a LOT of parts fitting and measuring. So ignore it.
 
I think this is in big block because I screwed up when picking the forum....sorry.
Thank you all for your advice. I will follow up with many of the things all of you suggested and be able to better understand my build and the results....thanks
 
photorep said:
Another question...The heads that came with my block arejust standard 360 heads with 1.88" (i think) intake valves. When the heads are reworked, should I enlarge the intakes too 2.02". Would this give my more HP or a better running engine?
Click to expand...

Most heads I see the valves are worn out and need to be replaced anyway. The 2.02 upgrade is worthwhile if the proper cutter is used, and the valve job is blended into the bowl properly.
You can see the step left in the port, this was on a set of 587 heads I did.
625477_524112837660093_1902571873_n.jpg
 
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