Rebuilding rear end and rear disc conversion

[Donny]

69 Dart. 8.75.

Installing new (DrDiff) axles, and his rear disc brake kit. First time doing so, few questions.

The kit comes with two end gaskets for the axles, do these gaskets go on the axle bearing plate (which is shaped exactly like the gaskets) or do they go on the end of the axle housing itself (which is that same shape, round with top edge flat)?

This is what I have, to the gaskets go on that piece (pardon my lack of knowledge on vocabulary, axle bearing plate?)?

 

[brian6pac]

If you have drum brakes 1 goes between the axle housing and backing plate the other between the backing plate and axle shaft.

 

[Donny]

If you have drum brakes 1 goes between the axle housing and backing plate the other between the backing plate and axle shaft.

I'm converting to rear disc, the DocDiff comes with two gaskets, I assume one per side, but not sure where they go, on the hosuing end, or the bearing plate thingy in the pic provided.

 

[tonysrt]

According to the book, the gasket goes on the inside of the plate to make a seal against rear end to prevent fluid leaking through. Hope this clears it up.

 

[abodyjoe]

Just received my dr diff axles yesterday.

The gasket as per dr diff goes on the axle flange. No need for a second since green bearings are of the sealed type.

 

[72Dart6pack]

This is a Dr Diff rear brake kit when it's done. Just so you get a idea.

 

[Donny]

I'm reading the instructions as the gasket goes on outside of aluminum caliper bracket and the bearing retainer bolts up against that bracket?

Green bearings so no other gaskets needed according to Doc

 

[Donny]

Running into a slight problem. The internal spline (spider gears?) in the diff are out of alignment on one side. The look to be only .020 -.010 out of alignment, enough to prevent the new axles from going completely into the diff. Anyone ever run into this and if so, does this require tearing the diff apart to realign, or can the axle be forced in somehow with a little brute for or ingenuity? I used the old axle (which has a chamfer end, DocDiff new axles do not have chamfer) to get the alignment really close, it was way way off at first.

 

[Donny]

Running into a slight problem. The internal spline in the diff are out of alignment on one side. The look to be only .020 -.010 out of alignment, enough to prevent the new axles from going completely into the diff. Anyone ever run into this and if so, does this require tearing the diff apart to realign, or can the axle be forced in somehow with a little brute for or ingenuity? I used the old axle (which has a chamfer end, DocDiff new axles do not have chamfer) to get the alignment really close, it was way way off at first.

Just thought of something, probably have one guy handle the axle, get it into the first set of spider gears, then have another guy turn the yoke while someone pushes axles in.

 

[1968notch]

Running into a slight problem. The internal spline (spider gears?) in the diff are out of alignment on one side. The look to be only .020 -.010 out of alignment, enough to prevent the new axles from going completely into the diff. Anyone ever run into this and if so, does this require tearing the diff apart to realign, or can the axle be forced in somehow with a little brute for or ingenuity? I used the old axle (which has a chamfer end, DocDiff new axles do not have chamfer) to get the alignment really close, it was way way off at first.

8 3/4 rear correct? I wouldn't do what has been suggested. My understanding is that there are adjustment rings on the center section frame on either side. These rings have holes in them to allow them to get locked into a fork. The rings are offset and allow for them to be rotated to the best possible position for alignment into spiders. Can't see any other use for them nor any reason for having multiple holes for locking in those rings if the weren't offset for adjusting.

These adjustments must be made with the center section out of the housing and then placed back in. It appears to be a trial and error thing. I've never done a rear end before so get more info than what I've offered here. Things I'm not sure about: The number of gaskets needed because there may be an easier way to figure where your center ring needs to be and whether or not this is the exact way to center them without other adjustments elsewhere. Things I am sure about: don't force them. Diffs are touchy and those inner bearings won't take kindly to extra pressure on one side. Also will leave rear end howling and noisy with a quick failure.

Here above you can somewhat see the locking fork and the ring it fits into. Stole this from pic craigslist. hope it stays.

I'm doing a 8 3/4 setup on my 68 notchback and bought a center section shell (no guts) Guess what was missing? The locks and rings... LOL
That's how I know enough about it to make me dangerous so like I said, get further guidance other than just what I've posted. I just wanted to
say enough to prevent a more serious problem with your setup later on.

Paul.

 

[john-9]

Running into a slight problem. The internal spline (spider gears?) in the diff are out of alignment on one side. The look to be only .020 -.010 out of alignment, enough to prevent the new axles from going completely into the diff. Anyone ever run into this and if so, does this require tearing the diff apart to realign, or can the axle be forced in somehow with a little brute for or ingenuity? I used the old axle (which has a chamfer end, DocDiff new axles do not have chamfer) to get the alignment really close, it was way way off at first.

try this --- if you have the one new axle installed you can try to align the cone and side gear splines by having someone turn the installed axle back and forth while having someone pushing in on the new axle on the misaligned side ,,
if the new axle just will not go -- do the same procedure with the original axle to readjust the splines and then retry the new axle again -- this may take several tries with the old axle
or try grinding a very slight chamfer on the new axle ,,, clean the splines on a wire wheel to remove any burrs and give it a shot .

 

[john-9]

8 3/4 rear correct? I wouldn't do what has been suggested. My understanding is that there are adjustment rings on the center section frame on either side. These rings have holes in them to allow them to get locked into a fork. The rings are offset and allow for them to be rotated to the best possible position for alignment into spiders. Can't see any other use for them nor any reason for having multiple holes for locking in those rings if the weren't offset for adjusting.

These adjustments must be made with the center section out of the housing and then placed back in. It appears to be a trial and error thing. I've never done a rear end before so get more info than what I've offered here. Things I'm not sure about: The number of gaskets needed because there may be an easier way to figure where your center ring needs to be and whether or not this is the exact way to center them without other adjustments elsewhere. Things I am sure about: don't force them. Diffs are touchy and those inner bearings won't take kindly to extra pressure on one side. Also will leave rear end howling and noisy with a quick failure.

View attachment 1715053761


Here above you can somewhat see the locking fork and the ring it fits into. Stole this from pic craigslist. hope it stays.

I'm doing a 8 3/4 setup on my 68 notchback and bought a center section shell (no guts) Guess what was missing? The locks and rings... LOL
That's how I know enough about it to make me dangerous so like I said, get further guidance other than just what I've posted. I just wanted to
say enough to prevent a more serious problem with your setup later on.

Paul.

Paul
where did you get this info -- better do a lot more reading before you tackle your differential

the "rings" have nothing to do with the internals of a differential -- they are used to set backlash and carrier bearing preload only , and the forks are used to lock the adjustment spanners into position after the gear set up is done.