Rebuilt six pack carbs, now it won't idle

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Righty Tighty

Blame it on the dog
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The actual issue is much more complicated than the title. This is long, so bear with me.

I've been going through my 440 six pack since I bought it a couple months ago - refreshing lines/hoses, changing gaskets, etc. One day I noticed fuel dribbling out of the rear outboard boosters while the car was idling. This was a steady production of drops, not quite a stream. I checked the float level and it was a tad high, so I lowered it. The problem continued.

I figured since I had no idea how long the carbs had been sitting prior to me getting the car (although I was told it had sat for at least 10 years), that it wouldn't be a bad idea to at least open them up and freshen the gaskets, needles & seats, idle mixture screws, and clean out all the passages. Much to my surprise, the insides of the carbs looked great. I only saw one tiny piece of varnish jammed in the FRONT outboard, nothing in the rear. So I cleaned them, put em back together and back on the car. I confirmed all the throttle plates were closed, choke was already open since it's pretty warm out here. New 6.5 power valve that came with the kit (however the old one was a 7.5). Didn't change the jets, but forgot to look and see what size they were.

First attempt, the car started pretty quickly but needed lots of throttle to stay running - wouldn't idle. It was also very rich, filled my garage with dark smoke. This time, the throttle plates on the front outboard were soaked with fuel. It wasn't a float issue, because the car hadn't been running long enough to even fill the bowls.

Removed the carbs again to double-check my work. Blew out all the passages, paying special attention to the air bleeds. I also confirmed that I didn't put on any gaskets backwards, etc. Pulled the dipstick (should've done this at the get-go) and sure enough, oil smelled like gas. Changed the oil/filter.

Second attempt, same as the first.

I thought maybe the new carb to intake gaskets were incorrect, so I replaced the new with the old ones, and I also noticed that I had forgotten to screw out the idle mixture screws. So I turned them out 1.5 turns. I also installed a fuel pressure regulator due to my suspicion that the carter high performance mechanical pump might be pushing too much pressure.

Third attempt, won't start at all. I started to smell fuel, so I looked under the car and saw small puddles of gas under the open headers. Coil wire is attached, ignition is on. I have a feeling it's something very simple that I either missed or am doing wrong, or even the wrong rebuild kit was used. My carbs are original to the engine (1969), and I've read that Holley changed the center carb metering plate gasket over the years. I plan to contact Holley to see if they can help, but I thought I'd also reach out to the brain trust here as well.
 
I'm sure this is beginning to be quite frustrating for you. It seems to me that the amount of fuel that it would take to be actually dripping out of the header is severe. In my opinion you need to isolate each carburetor till you find out the culprit or multiple problems whichever. If I tell you something you already know then bear with me I'm not there.also look at your plugs under these wet conditions it should be a tattletale sign of which carburetor is not performing properly if it's a little everywhere it's most likely your center but if it's in the front or the back I would be looking at coinciding outboard
 
Sorry after reading the initial post again I see that the front outboard was soaked as you probably know that should not ever be the case with a vacuum carburetor so you're bypassing fuel somehow it sure seems like the needles not seating in that carburetor for a gasket is allowing fuel to bypass proper channels, there's a great video on YouTube about rebuilding Holly six packs or trip hours you may have already watched it just an idea.
 
Sorry after reading the initial post again I see that the front outboard was soaked as you probably know that should not ever be the case with a vacuum carburetor so you're bypassing fuel somehow it sure seems like the needles not seating in that carburetor for a gasket is allowing fuel to bypass proper channels, there's a great video on YouTube about rebuilding Holly six packs or trip hours you may have already watched it just an idea.
These? Harold Demes on You Tube has some good ones.

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Thanks for the tips. You're right, it's pretty frustrating, but a lot of what I like about this is the detective work.

I forgot to mention I pulled the plugs, and all were black & #1 plug was wet. Replaced with new plugs. Regarding isolating the carbs, how do i do that? I get that if I disconnect the linkage, that'll disable the throttle plates, but the outboards will still be getting fuel since they're part of the idle circuit. Sorry if that's a stupid question...

Thanks @toolmanmike, you'd think that with all the YouTubing I do, that I'd have seen those buy now. I'll check them out.
 
Either you have a missing gasket/ wrong gasket or wrongly installed under a metering plate, allowing fuel into the engine, or you have a ruptured power valve (center carb) or wrong/ damaged/ no gasket on the power valve, or float level is high or float bad/ stuck/ needle/ seat stuck, etc

In other words you have something massively and basically wrong. This particular problem is not going to be some minute detail regarding jetting, idle screw settings, etc. it is very unlkely to be something like a vacuum/ base gasket leak, which would normally end up very lean

What are you using for a fuel pump and what is pump pressure? You may be "blowing past" the needles with too much pressure
 
Funny you mention the missing PV gasket, because that was a thought I had yesterday. It was too late and I was too frustrated to remove the center carb to have a look. I'm going to check today.

My pump is a mechanical Carter high performance pump, I don't recall the p/n at the moment. I did think of the possibility of too much pressure, so I installed a regulator that's preset at 6 psi just before the third attempt, with no change.

I just got off the phone with one of the speed shops here, and the guy confirmed that Holley made changes over the years that consequently require different gaskets depending on when the carb was made. He's searching and will call back.

@67Dart273 I think it might've been you who suggested blocking off the outboards with a soda can when I had the high idle issue, am I remembering correctly?
 
Yeh and someone else claims you can't do that. But I'm pretty sure "we did" back in the day. At least one project may have been an aftermarket tripower using the old rochester carbs on something else

I would think this problem is going to be "obvious" so to say as rich as it sounds
 
I found a kit online that specifically includes my carb list numbers, so I bought it. The kit I'm using now didn't specify any list numbers, but like a dummy I bought it anyway. I really think I ended up with the wrong kit, but while I wait for the correct kit to arrive, I'm going to pull the carbs off one more time to have a look-see.
 
There's no doubt about it a six pack is a labor of love but when you get it dialed in you will be one of few and all this troubleshooting will educate you in the idiosyncrasies of the system. Keep up the good attitude.
 
I really believe your front outboard is contributing to your problem your primary carb also May be contributing. I have never done this but I may consider it if I was unable to determine which carburetor is the problem. This is only in theory but the car should run cleanly on the center cab, yes all three carburetors are part of the idling circuit but if you only fed fuel to your center carburetor and it was still super rich you know that the primary carb is malfunctioning. Totally taking the outboards out of the equation as far as fuel is concerned
 
I think I would disconnect secondary carburetor vacuum line from carburetor vacuum port and plug it for this test
 
Looks like Chicago Carb sell the same kit for all years.........
Chicago Carburetor

The outboard floats don't last forever from my experience.

Maybe you can set up a bench test system if you can regulate a pressure between 6-7 psi instead of filling your crankcase with fuel and springing for oil changes. Not sure but I believe Holley uses mineral spirits to test for carb leaks / float levels before packaging.
 
Really look closely at the center carb, my buddy tore his apart several times not noticing that the carb was starting to delaminate in the little passages as soon as it was exposed to fuel.
He called holley and sent him a new carb,all the older carbs had a bad coating process.
 
I like the idea of a bench test. Much better than filling the crankcase with gas, as you said. I’ll see if I can set something up.

Took the carbs off the car and looked at the power valve again. I didn’t forget the gasket, in fact there were two. Somehow I doubled up. I also compared the old with the new power valves. You can see they are vastly different. The new one is on the right. Anyone think that’s an issue?

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Okay, I think I'm on to something. I read the entire chapter on carburetion in my 6 pack book, and have been making my way through Harold Demes's videos on YouTube. In the video I provided the link for, around 12:30 into it, he describes the vacuum chamber behind the power valve, and how raw, unmetered fuel will leak into it if the metering block is leaking. When I pulled the carbs yesterday, I noticed that chamber was 100% full of gas. I think I have a leaky metering block.
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I think a leaking power valve will do same thing. When I was in the Navy, maybe 2 or more years I used to clean and kit carbs for guys and used to buy either Holley or Blue Streak kits. I had at least 4 leaky new power valves......put the old one back in, instant fix.

Without some sort of "fixture" like a plywood mock up sealed to a small acquarium, and hooked to a shop vac, I don't know how you'd test a power valve for leakage outside of the carb

.............a quick search LOL reveals Moroso makes a tool

Carburetor Valve Problems - Tech Article - Chevy High Performance Magazine
 
Thanks! Mr. Demes uses a Mityvac with a little cup-shaped attachment in one of his videos for the power valve, but it's great to know there's a tool made specifically for that. I'm eager to get back out to the garage and put some of this knowledge to use.
 
Nice to meet you, I’m Harry Hamfist :lol:

That guy nailed it. My bowls were leaking, so while I was waiting for my rebuild kit to arrive, I tightened the bowl screws. I’ve yet to check the metering plates, but get this: Today I made a makeshift pressure tester like Harold Demes uses. Here’s a picture
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So anyway I started to attempt to fill the bowls and set the float levels, just so I could have a baseline before breaking them down again. I didn’t get 5 seconds into it before gas started POURING out of both outboards. The gas was going straight in and straight out before it had a chance to raise the floats. I looked and it was coming out of the transition slots and idle screws.

I’ll update more as I tear into them, but I suspect it was me somewhere along the way who made a mistake.
 
Well, at least you're not washing down the cylinders and filling the block again!

I think I would test /set them separately in my oil drain pan.
 
Haha, after the outboard “situation,” I decided to put a catch pan underneath. I’m following your advice and testing each individually.

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Obviously the outboards were an issue, but now I think they were THE issue.

I made a gasket sandwich to block off the outboard bores with 2 gaskets and a beer can in the middle, then sealed with duct tape for good measure. Secured the outboard base plates and installed the center carb. The engine lit faster than it ever has for me, and idled beautifully. I think the timing still needs to be fine tuned, but I’ll get to that once the outboards are good to go and on the car.

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Huge thanks to everyone who has helped so far, I’ll keep y’all updated.
 
Quick update. I suspected the metering plates on the outboards being warped, so I checked them with a straight edge, and they were .004-.005" at the edges. Not terrible, but I thought that might be enough to let some fuel sneak by. I wrapped a nice, flat piece of aluminum stock with 220 grit and went to town, getting the variances down to .001". Reassembled The carbs and went back to the bench test. Same problem with gas pouring out. I looked carefully at where it was coming from, and it was purely coming from the transition slots.

Took the bowl off and examined the transition circuit and corresponding gasket, and noticed two corners weren't being covered by the gasket.
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I think this is the problem. I'm going to try to find a different gasket that covers those corners on the metering plate.
 
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