nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
I am not sure that we are thinking the same. Regardless of where the cam timing is set now, if you retard it, you will have less torque at low RPM's. To get more torque at low RPM's you need to advance it.
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- Thread starter 67belevdere/225
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nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
I assumes the OP has the Clifford 268 mechanical cam, since he mentions 'doing the Clifford 6=8 package' in another thread. That shows as 268 advertised and 212 @.050" for the durations. Actual lift with standard 1.5 rockers is around .447". I dunno on LSA....
If you look at the Erson cams, then the RV10M shows the kind of specs you are thinking about, which is [email protected]" and 252 advertised, on a 111 LSA, and .435" lift. SSD mentions this as a Doug Dutra cam grind, which is a good pedigree IMHO. And with a desire to keep the RPM's lower at 70 MPH, then moving to a cam like this does make sense. The top RPM's will be lower so putting in a 3000 RPM stall makes no sense with a cam like the RV10M.
As said, the desire to keep RPM's down at 70 MPH cruising prevents a higher rear gear, and that drives the cam to have a smaller advertised duration to help the low RPM torque.
And I think then numbers thrown about for SCR and DCR are pretty close for the OP's combination: low 9's for SCR and high 7's for DCR with the RV10M cam installed at a 106 ICL. (It is hard to tell exactly on SCR since there are a few numbers upon which we have to make educated guesses.) The DCR would drop to mid 7's with the 268 cam at the same ICL so it is not all that bad IMHO. (That longish stroke helps keep the DCR from dropping as much as for a small block for the same duration increase.) That is like 5-6 psi of compression drop, so I am not so sure that the cam change would be very dramatic. But I would go with a Doug Dutra grind any day....
67belevdere/225
Well-Known Member
my bad 4500 at 75mph
and 3 rd at 2900 at 70
i read on a post after i installed my flow master muffler that it drones . i wish i would of used another brand
so it s like i feel it s raving high but actually it s just the noisy muffler
i m going to install a resonator to shut it up
but i do have a 294 diff i had it apart to install the sure grip , and i bought it at the dealer , was like 400 canadian
that's cheap!
and 3 rd at 2900 at 70
i read on a post after i installed my flow master muffler that it drones . i wish i would of used another brand
so it s like i feel it s raving high but actually it s just the noisy muffler
i m going to install a resonator to shut it up
but i do have a 294 diff i had it apart to install the sure grip , and i bought it at the dealer , was like 400 canadian
that's cheap!
67belevdere/225
Well-Known Member
to get back to the point , the car drives super good on highway , i was just wanting to move power down lower
. i feel the cam still breathing at 5000 rpm and thought that i don't want to shift any higher .and have more pep at where i drive it most. i think i will get the transmission on in the late fall and drop the gears in the diff to 355
and will be happy with that , I'm not looking to race it , its a sedan and i really like cursing around .
thanks again for all your cam knowledge at experience.
. i feel the cam still breathing at 5000 rpm and thought that i don't want to shift any higher .and have more pep at where i drive it most. i think i will get the transmission on in the late fall and drop the gears in the diff to 355
and will be happy with that , I'm not looking to race it , its a sedan and i really like cursing around .
thanks again for all your cam knowledge at experience.
67belevdere/225
Well-Known Member
67belevdere/225
Well-Known Member
thats what she looks like , i used all the drive line (except the tranny cause of crank)from the diner car 1982 dodge diplomat , brake m/c and disc with 8 .25 diff and 11 inch drums , the booster i fitted one from a mazda 3
and extend he rod , she stops on a dime , and fitted the power steering as well, upgraded the alt terminator and eliminated the amp meter , . i added 1/2 spacers to the rear to stick the wheels out a bit .getting her sorted out slowly but surely
and extend he rod , she stops on a dime , and fitted the power steering as well, upgraded the alt terminator and eliminated the amp meter , . i added 1/2 spacers to the rear to stick the wheels out a bit .getting her sorted out slowly but surely
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Uh-oh.... I see what looks like a GM alternator in there... blasphemy! Is that the original engine compartment paint?
With the 3.55 rear gear, your highway RPM's at 70 MPH are going to be about 3500 RPM. Make sure you are OK with that.
With the 3.55 rear gear, your highway RPM's at 70 MPH are going to be about 3500 RPM. Make sure you are OK with that.
67belevdere/225
Well-Known Member
yes it is , but it s cheap and it works (alternator) i think i can live with the 3500 rpm
i do want to distance drive her , but like burlington vt and up star new york
quebec city . 4 hrs driving range.and the paint is some what original they repainted but not completly.
the thing that sold me on the car is that it has 42 000 miles on her the exterior panels have been patched but the
undercarriage and frame and floors are like brand new.
i do want to distance drive her , but like burlington vt and up star new york
quebec city . 4 hrs driving range.and the paint is some what original they repainted but not completly.
the thing that sold me on the car is that it has 42 000 miles on her the exterior panels have been patched but the
undercarriage and frame and floors are like brand new.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
That is very nice!
Forget that, there is no "High Stall" lock-up TC in existance, the best are only rated@2,600-2,800 approx. for a SB. You'd be pissing away $ & in the wind all at once.
Stay with the gears You can tolerate on the highway & buy the CORRECT torque converter as stated above, You will be much happier.
EDIT: Sorry, but yes, You will still need a later trans ('72 & up is best) but not a
lock-up.
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