Redrill or buy new?

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70DartMike

70DartMike

Too many projects
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I have a SBP A body 8 3/4 rear in a 70 Dart. I have BBP discs on the front, and would like to convert the rear to BBP. Am I better off to just redrill my axles to BBP? Or should I spend the $$ and buy new axle shafts from Mancini or something? Let me know. If redrilling is cheaper but pretty dangerous, let me know that too. Thanks guys.
 
I'd redrill the flange and drums to 4.5 using a 1/2 screw in stud. Leaves more material around the outer edge.

Had a few cars running with that set up. You can also order a pair of axles with the SBP standoff distance drilled for both small and big bolt pattern. Lots of choices.
 
Having done it all, I'd go new. That way you are getting off the shelf replacement parts. Get a set of 10 x 2.5 rear brakes off any 8 3/4 or 8 1/4, plates and all. If you need a rear drum you just pick one up and slap it on. I got my axles from Moser with factory bearings and they fit perfect unlike the other set I bought. It may be a bit more expensive but you will be done for life.
 
The axles in my Cuda were re-drilled yrs. ago and never had a problem but it's never had slicks on it either so it depends on the application. I see Moser's have new replacement axles (not their race axles) that are designed to use with stock A-body brakes but have the big bolt pattern. Only $215 per set last time I looked. Unless you have a buddy at a machine shop close you can't hardly get them re-drilled for that. You'll still have to re-drill the drums but you can do that yourself if your real careful.
 
70DartMike said:
The car is just street use, but I have 10" drums on the rear already. $215 or so sounds pretty good for a set of BBP axles from Moser, is this the link here?

http://www.moserengineering.com/axl...ck-a-body-drum-brake-redrilled-spline-31.html

The only thing that will kill me will probably be shipping.. as I am in Canada.
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Yep, that's them. Heck of a deal for new axles. Hope the shipping isn't too bad for you. Since their a business they probably have a deal with UPS or FedEx so it may not be real bad.
 
I bought new axles from Dr. Diff, came with the barrings installed for if I remember right $185.00 + shipping.
If you want to see what they look like click on the link below my name there is a picture of them in that thread.
 
Now, it is asking for quantity.. I assume if I put '1' in the box, that will mean 1 set of axles, correct? May sound like a stupid question, but I don't want to pay shipping twice ;)

Also, are the bearings press on? Or is it a pretty easy task? Never dealt much with axles before.
 
70DartMike said:
Now, it is asking for quantity.. I assume if I put '1' in the box, that will mean 1 set of axles, correct? May sound like a stupid question, but I don't want to pay shipping twice ;)

Also, are the bearings press on? Or is it a pretty easy task? Never dealt much with axles before.
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It looks to me like their describing a set so 1 should do it but you might call them to be sure. It'd sure suck to have only 1 show up. The bearings actually press on real easy but there is a retainer collar that also presses against the bearing to retain the bearing and it takes a good amount of force to press it on. I have a 20 ton press I use but I'm sure a 10-12 ton would do it. I have heard guys say they slipped a piece of pipe over the axle and beat the collar on. I'm not crazy about the idea of beating on bearings or retainers.
 
I've looked at redrilling my axles. There doesn't seem to be enough room after you miss the current studs and the three larger holes. It also puts them real close to the edge.
 
fishy68 said:
Wow! That is a fantastic deal if their new axles. Were they direct bolt in or did you have to swap on bigger brakes? How long ago was that?
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Was about a year ago, came with the green barring already on just had to bolt them in. I actually took the backing plates off of a bbp 7 1/4 rear end that was in the dart. They bolted right up and where bigger brakes then the 8 3/4 had on it. Also came with the wheel studs in the axle.
 
If you don`t think you`re going to be making huge horsepower then I would redrill them the way Crackedback described, using a 1/2 threaded stud. Moser does it and they`re fast and affordable.
 
bensonr said:
I've looked at redrilling my axles. There doesn't seem to be enough room after you miss the current studs and the three larger holes. It also puts them real close to the edge.
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If you use original type press in wheel studs it is real close because the knurl on the stud is a lot bigger than 1/2" so there's not much meat left. Do it like Crackedback said using screw in studs and it leaves more meat because with screw in studs you only drill a 1/2" hole. Still close though.
 
Thats a good deal fom Moser i've got their race axles in my duster very satisfied/happy with the quality and performance much better then another brand thats been mentioned here..
 
Does anyone know anything about the snap rings? Should I be buying the axles with or without them?

I called Moser, and they quoted me $85 for shipping, (plus whatever customs wants), so that's actually pretty good!
 
i had a set redrilled yrs ago and put them into my brother in law 73 duster with a herb mac. 451 with a glide and a tbrake car has been 6.20 in the 1/8th mile on the back wheels and never a problem oh i paid 75.00 to drill the axle and drum if i had done the front aswell it would have been 100.00..drillem put good hardware in and go ..mike
 
70DartMike said:
Alright, thanks for the info.

Oops, K, another question. Do I want bearings with or without snap rings?
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If my memory serves me correctly the bearing with the snap ring provides a lip for the flange. The other bearing without a snap ring comes with its own flange.
 
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