Reference Picture - Duster/Demon

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jonn6464

jonn6464

1970 Duster
Joined
Mar 29, 2017
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Location
Weatherford, TX
Would anybody with a Duster or a Demon be willing to snap a picture of where the door meets the cowl? Maybe from a couple of angles?

I'm trying to get a visual reference for my alignment.

Below is the area I need to see...

Thanks in advance.

IMG_20210419_193242853_HDR.jpg
 
A couple of pics from before I started the bodywork. All original paint (except the hood) and the door hinges were still nice and tight , so I assume the gaps were pretty much the same as when it was born.

misc 054.JPG


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Demonx2 said:
Just tryin' to assist a fellow member. Good luck with your project!
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Did you do any alignment with your doors? I'm assuming the car was painted recently.

My issue is, the door is really tough to pull off the door striker post, after it has been closed. I have another thread going into all of the detail about it. But, the basics are; door latch mechanism works fine, no problem latching when the door is open. New striker posts. I've tried different washers behind the striker post to change the geometry. I don't have weatherstripping in yet (I'm hoping that will provide a bit of outward force when the door is opened).

So, I'm down to the alignment. I'm going to try and move the door up, at the cowl. Hoping that will take some weight off the striker post.

upload_2021-4-22_9-38-27.png

upload_2021-4-22_9-39-10.png


upload_2021-4-22_9-38-44.png
 
Not to hijack this thread, but what wheels are those on your Duster? They look great!
 
pauly said:
Not to hijack this thread, but what wheels are those on your Duster? They look great!
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US Mag U111. Mine are 17"

Yeah, I really like them. They will look good when the car is finished in the dark charcoal color that I'm going with, and when I get the stance set up. I'm thinking a 1” drop from factory height.
 
When I mount the doors on my cars, I always make them fit, and the body lines correct before I ever put the door striker posts on. Then I just make the striker align where it needs to be. Getting door and fender gaps right is like trying to dress a mad, fat baby! You just gotta keep your patience.....lol. Also, the gaps can look big while the car is in light gray primer. That awesome Charcoal color you chose will close them up a bunch to the eye when it's painted. Be sure not to get the door to fender gaps too close, and put the ever so slight outward bow in the fender by pushing it up from the bottom before tightening the lower fender bolt on the rocker panel. You don't want that teensie bow to be noticeable, but rather just enough to allow the door leading edge to go behind the fender when it gets XX mils of base/clear on it. Good luck to you. The part you're doing is a pain in the wazoo....but you'll get it!
 
JDMopar said:
When I mount the doors on my cars, I always make them fit, and the body lines correct before I ever put the door striker posts on. Then I just make the striker align where it needs to be. Getting door and fender gaps right is like trying to dress a mad, fat baby! You just gotta keep your patience.....lol. Also, the gaps can look big while the car is in light gray primer. That awesome Charcoal color you chose will close them up a bunch to the eye when it's painted. Be sure not to get the door to fender gaps too close, and put the ever so slight outward bow in the fender by pushing it up from the bottom before tightening the lower fender bolt on the rocker panel. You don't want that teensie bow to be noticeable, but rather just enough to allow the door leading edge to go behind the fender when it gets XX mils of base/clear on it. Good luck to you. The part you're doing is a pain in the wazoo....but you'll get it!
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I'm glad you posted this. That's exactly what I did, at first. I did not have the strikers in place while I aligned the door. I got it lined up to where it looked good against the quarter panel and the fender.
Then I lined up the striker right about at the middle of the door latch.
I've just never been able to get a good "release" of the door latch from the striker post.
I'm not really familiar with the inner workings of the door latch mechanism though. I'm wondering if a bent rod or a worn out spring might be hindering the latch from rotating all the way back around, to open, because of some drag on the striker post.
And, yes, you are correct about the gaps looking large with the light primer. The dark color in the jamb makes it look like a canyon. Won't be the case when the car is painted.
 
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Are both doors sticking, or just one? If it's the drivers side door, try taking the latch mechanism out and cleaning it really well to get all of the old caked up grease and grit out of it. Then lube/grease it up real good before you reinstall it. Just be careful of greasy fingers in the door jamb when you put it back in, cause that will make the paint fish eye when it's sprayed. Most cars, out old ones included, the drivers door gets 90% of the use. It may just need a little love to get it to act right.
 
JDMopar said:
Are both doors sticking, or just one? If it's the drivers side door, try taking the latch mechanism out and cleaning it really well to get all of the old caked up grease and grit out of it. Then lube/grease it up real good before you reinstall it. Just be careful of greasy fingers in the door jamb when you put it back in, cause that will make the paint fish eye when it's sprayed. Most cars, out old ones included, the drivers door gets 90% of the use. It may just need a little love to get it to act right.
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Unfortunately, it's both sides.
 
My driver's side fender is off being replaced after a car went through the side if my garage and knocked my fridge and freezer into my car's left front fender. My door still opens and closes perfectly. My passenger side has never been apart, so I can take pictures of those, if'd you'd like. The factory lines were pretty crappy back then, in part of the labor disputes between the UAW and all major manufacturers. Let me know if I can help. My car is a 1970 Swinger 340, but they should be very similar. Paul.
 
70dart340 said:
My driver's side fender is off being replaced after a car went through the side if my garage and knocked my fridge and freezer into my car's left front fender. My door still opens and closes perfectly. My passenger side has never been apart, so I can take pictures of those, if'd you'd like. The factory lines were pretty crappy back then, in part of the labor disputes between the UAW and all major manufacturers. Let me know if I can help. My car is a 1970 Swinger 340, but they should be very similar. Paul.
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Sure, any pics you can get would be great.

Thanks for the help.
 
I'd be happy to help. Do you need pics of the fender/door/cowling panel? or do you need the door striker panel? Until I get my new dollies, I can only get you the driver's side.
 
70dart340 said:
I'd be happy to help. Do you need pics of the fender/door/cowling panel? or do you need the door striker panel? Until I get my new dollies, I can only get you the driver's side.
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I'm really just trying to compare the cowl area, where the door and fender meet. I'm trying to see if the door needs to come up anymore. I'm hoping that wi help take some of the door weight off the striker post. Thanks again.
 
I didn't mean to forget you. I'll take pictures of both the front cowl/fender/door area on Friday. I have to take my wife to a medical appointment tomorrow. The sphincter internal view kind. I can get both sides now, after moving some tools. Paul.
 
70dart340 said:
I didn't mean to forget you. I'll take pictures of both the front cowl/fender/door area on Friday. I have to take my wife to a medical appointment tomorrow. The sphincter internal view kind. I can get both sides now, after moving some tools. Paul.
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No rush at all. I'm still waiting for my gas struts for the hood, so I can't put the fenders on yet anyway.
 
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