regulator help/amp gauge bypass

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highflyer

highflyer

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im going from a one wire alt to a stock alt and reg..is there a particular brand model or ? that works and lasts ...and if the in dash ammeter is bypassed and the regulater lets the alt cook the batterie,how does one know when this is happening without a a/meter..any help here please..j
 
I disagree with the recommendation for madelectric. See here.

If we knew what year and model car you're working on, it'd be easier to recommend specific components.
 
Once again, the great god of most everything has spoken.

If you bypass the ammeter, you can use a voltmeter. If you are REALLY ambitious, you could "rig" and external shunt ammeter, which GM/ Ferd used for years. Some of the Ferds, though, are kinda "numb." That is, they don't deflect very much until a lot of current changes hands.
 
I nutted my amp meter black and red together on one leg of the amp meter...I put a huge 120 amp Nippon Denso unit in my car..I used the heavy black..old alternator wire to feed the fusebox and also used the fusable link from the battery to feed the fusebox also...I ran a 6 awg big red wire from the alternator to the battery...now two lines feed the fusebox through bulkhead connetor..a simple dc volt meter installed in place of the amp meter...M2C and to each his own...:toothy2:
 
Car is a 73 duster with a 74 harness.73 harness was really cut up...no wiring on the right side was being used..it was all jury rigged ..large wires under dash were cut and spliced with wire that looked like lite plug wire and wire nuts...tx .j
 
highflyer said:
Car is a 73 duster with a 74 harness.73 harness was really cut up...no wiring on the right side was being used..it was all jury rigged ..large wires under dash were cut and spliced with wire that looked like lite plug wire and wire nuts...tx .j
Click to expand...

Anything you do to this 74 harness will be somewhat similar to the 73 harness you described.
I could convert your stock amp gauge to a volt gauge for you but...
How the two instruments are wired into the system/harness is completely different, which will require some hacking.
To add a aftermarket volt meter under the dash is a lot less radical.
How you go about taking the amp gauge out of the system is up to you. Some choose to simply stack both of the ring terminal on one post of the amp gauge. Others cut the ring terminals off and solder, crimp connect, etc..
Others buy a #10 X 1/2" bolt and use the stock toothed washers and nuts on that, with ample electric tape wrap/insulation. That's probably the least invasive most effective of these. The connection is totally separated from the amp gauge yet can be put right back like OEM at any time.
I'm sure there are more methods to the madness .
 
....and

You should not just bypass the ammeter as described, but CHECK the firewall/ bulkhead connector for damage, and decide on a fix.

For myself, I'm doing away with it altogether, that is, "stringing" wire right through the holes. In my case, the connector suffered a LOT of damage, IE meltage and corrosion, not just on the "big three" heavy current fittings.
 
highflyer said:
Car is a 73 duster with a 74 harness
Click to expand...

Well, that makes things fairly simple, though the harness hackery may make things more complicated. What alternator to pick depends on your goals for the car, how much electrical equipment it has (and will have in the future) and how much money, time, and effort you want to put into the project. Beware of "remanufactured" alternators and other components, which are usually unreliable junk. Also beware of low-quality voltage regulators from China, which unfortunately is most of them these days. You can get a brand-new (not "remanufactured") stock alternator and an American-made genuine Chrysler regulator from Old Car Parts Northwest for reasonable money. See this post and this one regarding retrofitment of later-model, higher-performance alternators if that's an upgrade you'd like to make.
 
Wow..there is so much...im not going to get real radical..electricity is not my calling..the stock alt is sufficient as long as it keeps batt charges and givews me no grief..i like the idea of tying them together on one post..iv been on this with my kid for over a year and a half now..motor, k.brakes ,rear, steering.now under dash harness and front harness....after i bot this car i couldnt believe that everything the other person touched was //////...id like it to be as good as mopar made it or upgraded...the bulkhead s were melted im going strait thru ..i realy dont know if i want to eliminate the amp gage...i had a 73 200 van ordered new in 72 ..rode it for 20 years,but it chewed regulators..going to tahoe snow camping and fishing once with van loaded kids and camp gear..alt was freying the batt 10 mins from home..needle pegged..mqade it to a dodge dealer had new reg put on...wouldnt have know without that gauge..tx..j
 
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