Replaced Charcoal Canister

[TRWRacing]

I bought a used charcoal canister via Ebay to replace the useless one that the previous owner broke the purge connection and epoxied it closed.

I removed the bottom filter on the replacement and the charcoal granules are visible. Is this how it is supposed to look? My original had no filter, hence no charcoal....

Does the replacement filter hold the charcoal in place?

Thanks,
Eric

 

[Bill Crowell]

Cut the canister apart with a hacksaw. It is made from ABS plastic. Buy aquarium charcoal at a pet store and put it in the canister with filter paper at both ends (try to duplicate the original filter paper). Dissolve unneeded pieces of ABS plastic in acetone until no more will dissolve. Clean the canister near where you cut it with acetone. Put the two halves of the canister back together and glue them by brushing on successive layers of your dissolved ABS. Keep the layers thin and let each one dry (they will dry fast) before you apply the next layer.

 

[TRWRacing]

Since I will be swapping out the engine from a 340 to a 360 with an aftermarket QuickFuel carb, I will have to use a purge valve in-line with the canister purge connection teed to the PCV and small connection teed to the vacuum advance. Is this correct since there is no port for this on the carb.

I will try to rebuild the canister- thanks!

 

[84Fifth Ave]

Just dont run one. I always remove them and let it vent to the air with a fuel filter clamped to the end of the vent line.

 

[Bill Crowell]

I assumed he was using one because his vehicle is subject to smog inspection.

 

[TRWRacing]

I assumed he was using one because his vehicle is subject to smog inspection.

I was just trying to retain a stock look as much as possible and trying to avoid gas tank issues. Plus it's best to not release hydrocarbons to the atmosphere.

 

[TRWRacing]

I cut the bottom off about an inch up with my dremel. Replaced the carbon with new activated pellets from a pet store and cut a new felt circle for the bottom grid. Reassembled with JB Weld and painted black.

 

[Bill Crowell]

TRWRacing, you may find that JB Weld and plastic epoxy work quite poorly on ABS plastic because it is so chemically unreactive. That is why it is chosen for applications involving exposure to fuel (gas tanks and evap canisters). JB Weld and plastic epoxy are designed to work on other types of plastic that are minimally or somewhat chemically-reactive. That's why I suggested repairing the ABS with dissolved plastic/acetone slurry instead. I think it is the only way to go, but see if your JB Weld job holds up to vibration.

I have repaired the plastic gas tanks on both my B-200 van and my D-300 truck this way, and now they are stronger than new, with ZERO leaks. Passed the CA evaporative smog test with flying colors. Absolutely no leaks on the smoke machine, and no leaks in use. Now THAT is a proper repair!

 

[TRWRacing]

Thanks. We'll see how it works. Really wasn't much ABS left after the cut. I saw others via the web on their canister with success.

 

[TRWRacing]

I bought a used charcoal canister via Ebay to replace the useless one that the previous owner broke the purge connection and epoxied it closed.

I removed the bottom filter on the replacement and the charcoal granules are visible. Is this how it is supposed to look? My original had no filter, hence no charcoal....

Does the replacement filter hold the charcoal in place?

Thanks,
Eric

Backup plan is SMP cp3167 since when my 360 arrives with QuickFuel 750, then I will have to run a purge valve anyway. The cp3167 has it built-in.