replacement B&M and Hurst shifter cables

[MV8]

I see it is a hurst v-matic. Adjustment should be from the neutral positions on the trans and shifter (system midrange) with a B&M but Hurst adjusts at low and park. B&M have flats on the ID of the chrysler trans arm so it can't be clocked wrong on the trans which could reduce the total cable travel. Some reasons for for lost motion are if the arm hole is worn/loose around the pin of the cable swivel end, the cable mount brkt is bent less than 90 degrees putting the cable housing end further away from the trans, the vertical adjustment is too high/low in the cable mount brkt, or the jamb nut is missing from the end of the cable which eliminates a tiny amount of backlash on the threads at the swivel.

It isn't perfection but if all that failed to achieve reliable park and 1st, the cable swivel hole distance to the trans arm could be slightly reduced by tacking a washer to the arm and redrill through it for clearance to check, then a stitch weld if satisfied (can always go backwards if you measure (prefer a dial caliper) and write down the original distance). Normal wear to the arm would be outboard making the distance greater/less travel for a given cable movement from the shifter. Here is a link to the vmatic pdf:Hurst vmatic adjustment

 

[65TerrorCuda]

I see it is a hurst v-matic. Adjustment should be from the neutral positions on the trans and shifter (system midrange) with a B&M but Hurst adjusts at low and park. B&M have flats on the ID of the chrysler trans arm so it can't be clocked wrong on the trans which could reduce the total cable travel. Some reasons for for lost motion are if the arm hole is worn/loose around the pin of the cable swivel end, the cable mount brkt is bent less than 90 degrees putting the cable housing end further away from the trans, the vertical adjustment is too high/low in the cable mount brkt, or the jamb nut is missing from the end of the cable which eliminates a tiny amount of backlash on the threads at the swivel.

It isn't perfection but if all that failed to achieve reliable park and 1st, the cable swivel hole distance to the trans arm could be slightly reduced by tacking a washer to the arm and redrill through it for clearance to check, then a stitch weld if satisfied (can always go backwards if you measure (prefer a dial caliper) and write down the original distance). Normal wear to the arm would be outboard making the distance greater/less travel for a given cable movement from the shifter. Here is a link to the vmatic pdf:Hurst vmatic adjustment

Hey thanks for that link! Much improved over the original tiny instructions.

You shared some great ideas. I haven't had problems with gear selection but these new cables don't inspire confidence. The distance the shifter moves in park is ridiculous but hasn't hurt anything yet.

The only thing I found any detectable wear on is the pin that goes inside the cable eyelet, but it's only a few thousandths.

A lot of the issue is working on this stuff under the car. Right now it's all apart and on the bench so I can really bear down on getting it right.