Replacement but performance level ignition coil?

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timk225

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In all the parts changing I've been doing to bring my 1973 Duster out of storage and back to running condition, one part I haven't changed yet is the ignition coil. Just because it is really old, I want to replace it, and keep the old one as a spare.

What's a good coil that will make a little better spark but fit in the factory bracket?
 
I like the MSD Blaster High-Vibration Ignition Coil 8222
 
Are you running the stock electronic ignition or something else? MSD and similar ignitions benefit from different windings from a stock ignition in particular.
 
And if you can find an old-stock, Made in USA one, so much the better.

– Eric
The recent one I bought had "MADE IN USA" right on the box. But then the one that was on the shelf next to it said Indonesia. lol
 
Are you running the stock electronic ignition or something else? MSD and similar ignitions benefit from different windings from a stock ignition in particular.
Standard electronic ignition, standard distributor and electronic ignition pickup. I changed the ECU, ballast, cap, rotor, plug wires, and plugs over the winter from the old parts. I might as well change the pickup coil in the distributor as well, where to get a new one? And for something like the MSD 8222 coil listed above, would I still use the stock dual ballast resistor or change it? For electronic ignition.
 
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I wouldn't change the pick up coil unless it has a short circuit or visible damage. They're not a wear item and I would trust a 50 year old stock piece over new Chinesium.

With a stock ignition you will also need the coil and ballast resistor to match. Normally if the primary resistance matches your coil's, you are ok with the stock ballast resistor.
 
These things like coils and resistors usually don't go bad in storage. They get damaged from things like heat and vibration or dumping ice cold water on them when they are hot.
 
I wouldn't change the pick up coil unless it has a short circuit or visible damage. They're not a wear item and I would trust a 50 year old stock piece over new Chinesium.

With a stock ignition you will also need the coil and ballast resistor to match. Normally if the primary resistance matches your coil's, you are ok with the stock ballast resistor.
Normally I wouldn't but I had the dizzy in pieces and fiqured what the heck.
 
I have some NORS 55KV coils, No idea who made them but they work great.
 
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I know alot has changed in 50 years, but back in the day this you either had already or wanted one.
 
Sure normal Mopar coils have a spark output of 28 KV, the higher you get the hotter spark you will have. That help?
 
Nope, higher voltage doesn't get you a hotter park. Other way round....
The parameter that ignites the mixture is the current, the heat, in the spark. If spark voltage goes up, current goes down. You need enough voltage to enable the spark plug gap to be ionised, which for a NA engine, 30Kv is plenty. Higher voltage is trading current for voltage......that will never be needed. Trouble is....48,0000 volts sounds more impressive than .25 amps [ of spark current ], so guess which one gets advertised.....

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Yes it is but remember ohms law. Higher the voltage over the same resistance makes more current (amps)

I = E / R​

 
What's a good coil that will make a little better spark but fit in the factory bracket?
The factory coil is perfect for your setup.
If you're winding the engine to 6000 rpm in top gear, then maybe a different coil can help with the shorter saturation time available...
Or if the engine is so worn that there are msifires due to poor initiation
Dumb that down what that is for us common folk Sparky.

Nope, higher voltage doesn't get you a hotter park
Just trying to simplify it per the request above. LOL
If spark voltage goes up, current goes down. You need enough voltage to enable the spark plug gap to be ionised, which for a NA engine, 30Kv is plenty. Higher voltage is trading current for voltage......that will never be needed.
I think we basically agree that there can only be so much energy stored in the coil.

Borrowing these illustration from "Fire in the Hole" Bernie C. Thompson Motor May 2005

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And the Volts needs to jump the gap will vary with conditions.
A dirty spark plug, with wide gap, in a cold cylinder will requre more voltage to start the spark.
In doing so it will trade off some of the energy that would have been available to maintain the spark.

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We could go into a whole discussion on turns ratios, etc etc but for the OP I think it boils down to stating there are generally tradeoffs.
With street fuel (pump gas) having sufficient burn time can be helpful in building a good flame.
A coil more suited to high rpm, is generally going to be less effective under other conditions, or is going to run hotter and have shorter life span. A coil with higher kV potential may be a better coil (can go to high voltage) but there are other factors that may make it suitable or not as a stock replacement.
 
True, in a steady-state situation.

But the high voltage initiates the spark, which partially ionizes the mixture along its trail, reducing its resistance, and then a higher current flows at a lower voltage.

I do not know specifically exactly what sort of energy characteristics a spark has across a given gap, through a given mixture, under a given pressure, at a given temperature, using a given coil, for a given duration, as I am not an engineer, but all of these are known factors, and are used in modern cars to determine whether each cylinder has fired, each time, the whole time the engine is running, so they are knowable.

In general, though, a coil (or an alternator) will only make a certain maximum voltage when feeding in to a certain maximum resistance.
So, you may have a 50,000 volt coil, but if the above conditions (especially spark gap) are right, it will never reach that voltage, because the spark will initiate at a lower voltage, and then current will flow at an even lower voltage.

If conditions are different - more resistive mixture, wider plug gap, etc., the voltage may rise higher.

On the other hand, if you have a leaky spark plug wire, the insulation may hold current in at lower voltages, but start to leak at higher voltages, so under low load, with less spark resistance, the engine will run fine, but when you press the gas, spark resistance will increase, voltage will increase, surpassing the resistance of the insulation flaw, and bleed out, without ever rising high enough to initiate a spark.
You can often see this if you hook the car up to an oscilloscope.

All of that being said, newer (post-mid-1970s) cars with much wider gaps and much longer maintenance intervals generally have higher voltage coils to be able to run well even with excessively worn spark plug electrodes and giant gaps.

- Eric

edit: Damn. Mattax posted before me. And better.
 
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What is being missed here: the spark power in secondary comes from the magnetic coupling of the pri/sec windings. There is a small loss during this transfer.
Power [ watts ] = volts times amps. If you increase the sec voltage, you are decreasing the sec current [ the spark current ]. This is what Phiil Jacobs is getting at in post #18. The sec voltage is in direct proportion to, & generated by, the pri/sec turns ratio & the collapsing primary back emf.
If the back emf was 550 volts, with a 100:1 turns ratio, the sec voltage would be 55,000 volts. You would never get 550v back emf with inductive ign, but you could with CD. The quoted sec voltages for ign coils are rarely needed...or...achieved, a marketing gimmick that people fall for. If the turns ratio was 50:1, you would get 27500 sec volts...& twice the current [ heat ] in the spark.
 
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