Replacement wiring harness

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HankRearden

HankRearden

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The under-hood wiring on my 70 swinger is complete garbage. Bulkhead connectors melted wires melted,spliced, hard as a rock etc..My fuse box is corroded but the rest of the underdash stuff seems "ok".
A factory replacement style harness is not in the budget and really it wouldn't make sense as I'm planning on running an HEI distributor,electric fuel pump,electric fans,one wire alternator,composite headlights with hid's. So I'm looking at all the different "universal muscle car harnesses" but I'm not sure how to make them work with the factory instruments which is a must. Also I'm on a super tight budget so name brand stuff seems out of the running.
Does anyone have experience with some of these no name universal harnesses? I assume they are more geared toward GM stuff.
How do you make factory chrysler turn signal switch,ignition switch and gauges work with these?
Im looking at something like these but I'm open to suggestions.

Brand New 12 Circuit Wiring Harness Kit fits for Mopar Muscle Car Hot Rod Street | eBay

Ship 12 CIRCUIT STANDARD PANEL HARNESS MUSCLE CAR HOT ROD STREET ROD Nice | eBay


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7U30VD/?tag=joeychgo-20

I'm probably over complicating things but I haven't wrenched on cars in twelve years and I haven't had any electrical classes since the mid 90's.
I was tempted to pull the underhood fuse box out of one of my ram parts trucks and attempt to make my own harness but that seems a little daunting as well.
 
I am looking myself so I'll be curious what others have used as far as quality. There can be a significant difference in the quality of wire and materials used so I don't think I would use a bottom dollar kit as the insulation on cheap wire starts cracking in short order. I have never done a complete on a car but have done quite a few bikes. The kits are not complete and for me I would need Deutsche, Molex, or Packard connectors, terminal ends, heat shrink loom stuff etc. which can add a significant amount to the cost.
 
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GeorgeH said:
I am looking myself so I'll be curious what others have used as far as quality. There can be a significant difference in the quality of wire and materials used so I don't think I would use a bottom dollar kit. I have never done a complete on a car but have done quite a few bikes.
Click to expand...

We did a cj7 once with a universal fuse box from a parts store and bulk trailer wiring once. But that jeep had literally no accessories and all aftermarket gauges and a gm column.
 
Frankly as "unMopar" as high priced stuff like Painless is, some of these "no brand" 12 circuit setups might make sense.

You need a shop manual which you can get. This is so you can figure out stuff on the "factory end" like your gauges, light switch, etc. You can download many of them free from MyMopar

Many of the connectors.......you can rebuild. Many of the connectors use "Packard 56" terminals which are available. Be careful you get the proper Mopar kind, there are some variations

"Little things" like wiring up the gauges we can help you with here. That is not that difficult.

I would do away with the bulkhead connector. I was able to make a SIMPLE metal panel to replace my connector, which snapped right in with a replacement gasket and factory snap retainers
 
Rebuilding your harness isn't rocket surgery.

Pull the harness out and lay it on a piece of plywood. Separate it all out and outline it with finishing nails. Unwrap and start replacing/repairing one wire at a time. If you spend a little time figuring it out, you can add additional circuits that you'll need.

Here's a wiring harness I was working on for a 53 Chrysler Windsor.

2012_1204stuff0003-jpg.jpg


BTW, this is the method used to build short run production harnesses. I've seen this used for military electronics.
 
One caveat on using a wiring diagram. I purchased one of the laminated wiring diagrams from Classic for my 73 Dart 340 Sport rebuild. The diagram is good as far as ID'g the various wires, but do not rely on the color / position on the bulkhead connector to be correct. Mine was all different and it's a factory original harness. Manually trace the wires to verify their position on the bulkhead connector.
 
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