Resleeving a 360 magnum?

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RustyDusty

RustyDusty

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I just bought a 360 magnum with a blown hole in piston #8. There is a lot of damage to the cylinder walls from the bits of cylinder that were flying around. Should I have it resleeved? What would you do?
 
First, have it magnafluxed to make sure the bore is not cracked. Then I'd have the shop measure it. You might be surprised at how shallow some damage is when it looks bad. If they have to bore more than .040 over, then properly sleeve it.
 
not sure what a salvage Magnum block costs in your area, but it may be cheaper to just get a different motor. Machine work and the sleeve here will run around 150.00 just to sleeve it, then final bore to match the other cylinders is more. I can pick up a long-block for around 200.00 and have a solid builder.
 
Can't give any advice on a blind question. Pictures would be pretty good here.
 
All I have is a picture phone. I'm unable to get some really good photos. I'll try to get a decent camera today. What costs more: a re-sleeve, or to have the existing sleeve bored?
 
If you are gonna bore & to the next size, the sleeve should only be another 75'ish bucks, they would be honing them anyways, still might cost $300-bore/hone w/plate + 1 sleeve.

a lil damage go's a long way on a cylinder, .030 over is really .015 and so on...
 
moper said:
First, have it magnafluxed to make sure the bore is not cracked. Then I'd have the shop measure it. You might be surprised at how shallow some damage is when it looks bad. If they have to bore more than .040 over, then properly sleeve it.
Click to expand...

That sounds a little overkill don't you think? Guys successfully over bore their cylinders .080 and more with a sonic check.....
 
Mad Dart said:
I over bored one of the 318 blocks I got from you to 4.00" after it was sonic checked to make it a 402CI with a 4" Crank.
Click to expand...

Thats right, it was cast in 1971 though.

the newer stuff just like the heads and the rest got thinner.

I'm not gonna say you absolutely can't do it, but with core shift a factor on top of that...I wouldn't hold my breath.

A thicker wall is a good thing for power/wear

when you get to the edge of power vs durability, I'll stay on the durability end of it.
like .060 or .070 over...I'll take .060 if were taling like late 70's & up 360's
 
318's around 1970'ish can go 4'', slants can go 120 over.
Some early big blocks and rv big block have walls around 130+ thou thick,but can also have .080 thick with a lot of core shift...
 
Where can you bore/hone and sleeve 1 cylinder for $38 each??? I thought it was way more than that.
 
Bore and sleeve the damaged cylinder and then hone all 8 for $300...is what he's sayin.

If the cylinder is beyond .040" overbore, get another block. They are plentiful.
 
It all comes down to the sonic test. Which was why I say do it first.
 
Around here if I asked them to sonic check the block they would look at me like I have 2 heads.
 
Well, I decided I'd rather appear to have two heads...lol. I find it cheaper than spending twice on something, which really pisses me off. I ended up buying my own tester 4 years ago.
A hint on you choice of shops... If they are not familiar with sonic testing, like never heard of it, go somewhere else. They dont do much performance work. If they've heard of it but dont own the equipment, that's another story but I still wouldnt give them my work. For a performance oriented shop a sonic tester should be a must have for the toolbox.
 
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