Adding a sub anywhere is going to add a whole dimension to a sound system. As for feeling bass as much as hearing, look into aura sound bass shakers. They don't reproduce sound, they provide vibrations so you feel it! Strange huh? I've never fooled with one.
Retrosound, Amps & Sub Install
- Thread starter Auzdart
- Start date
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mopar79sean
Well-Known Member
On the vibration you are getting from the trunk lid you have some options that won't require welding. One would be to get the adhesive like they use on the hood of our cars and start bonding the under bracing to the outer skin. Another option is to get a product like Hushmattl or dynamat. These products will take care of the vibration but they do add weight. My 70 Dart will get a full hushmat treatment before I put the interior back in. I hope this helps a bit.
Woods74
Broke Senior
What, the 8 cylinder symphony wasn't good enough for you!?
Good job! :blob:
Where did you get the kick panels?
Good job! :blob:
Where did you get the kick panels?
HA, Ha, I knew someone would say something like that. The car is currently fitted with a stock 318, so symphony no, maybe old Elvis tune. Not so bad but you can't listen to over and over again.
GPRS have the kick panels.
Thanks for the adhesive idea, I never thought of that. I went and spoke to my local panel guy to get his thoughts on that idea. He recons that welding, gluing and filler foam is a bad idea. These will cause the trunk is be ridged. He said the skin needs to move due to hot/cold etc.
He sold me some gunk that has the same consistency as the seam filler on our cars, it will hold but stays flexible. Just got to work out how to apply it.
Me and a mate both put pressure on the trunk skin to see if we could deaden the sound, it's still there?
This got me to look a bit closer. I found the parcel shelf, the number plate, the rear bumper and the sub speaker itself to making noise. The trunk seal is buggered as well.
I will fix all the above problems and see how it sounds.
Dynamat is on the list hopefully it will help as well.
I put a 8" Bazooka base tube in the trunk of my 67 a while back. The only rattle noise I got came from a fancy chrome frame I had added at my rear license plate. Easy fix
Seems I got lucky. Good luck with yours.
I'll add this too... The trunk lid seal is repoped but its no better than the OEM in design. You can buy a more modern seal for less at any parts yard. Their U shaped channel fits over the pinch weld so it installs with zero gluing.
Seems I got lucky. Good luck with yours.
I'll add this too... The trunk lid seal is repoped but its no better than the OEM in design. You can buy a more modern seal for less at any parts yard. Their U shaped channel fits over the pinch weld so it installs with zero gluing.
Really.. I was looking at some today but wasn't sure what would fit. Do you have picture of the right profile that will fit?
Thanks mate, I'll check it out tomorrow.
moparlover
Well-Known Member
i'm guessing that you need a port hole & that would stop 75% of the vibration.
right now, your kicker is in a sealed area. there needs to be a place for the air to move in and out in relation to the movement of the woofer.
without a portal for the air to travel to/from the passenger space, (or outside of the car) you will cause major vibration.
you really can't put a portal to the outside of the car without letting rain into the trunk. so i'd recommend a port that opens between the trunk area/pass area. you will need to be creative.
right now, your kicker is in a sealed area. there needs to be a place for the air to move in and out in relation to the movement of the woofer.
without a portal for the air to travel to/from the passenger space, (or outside of the car) you will cause major vibration.
you really can't put a portal to the outside of the car without letting rain into the trunk. so i'd recommend a port that opens between the trunk area/pass area. you will need to be creative.
A ported box, as shown in the picture above, would make the vibration worse as the port increases bass in the frequencies around where it is tuned, usually 3-6dB. Doesn't seem like much, but every 3dB is doubling the loudness. Your best bet is hushmat or dynomat or a similar sound deadening materaial. That sub moves air, creating pressure and will cause metal to vibrate. Nature of the beast. I have seen windshields crack, hair blow straight forward, tops of door frames bow outward... My old competition car had clamps around the door to keep the pressure inside.
Btw, nice choice in equipment. I have sold and installed kicker, crystal mobile sound, infinity, Sony, crossfire, RE audio, Kove Audio, US Amps, Panasonic, Harrison audio labs, jl audio... And still feel that Pioneer is the best bang for your buck on the market.
Fixed it.. I stoked. Thanks for all the suggestions.
After spending half the day chasing vibrations, rattles and stressing about how to fix the trunk rattle/noise I took a step back and did some Goggling.
I went to Crutchfield's website and they had all the info I needed. All I needed to do was set the head unit & amps up correctly. It still cranks loud but has perfect clarity, No more vibrations etc.
Mt thanks again for all your help, I was going to port the cab but I' glad I didn't, it's loud enough. I'm real happy with the pioneer gear I installed, and very happy with the Retrosound head unit.
I'll post pics when I get it trimmed.
After spending half the day chasing vibrations, rattles and stressing about how to fix the trunk rattle/noise I took a step back and did some Goggling.
I went to Crutchfield's website and they had all the info I needed. All I needed to do was set the head unit & amps up correctly. It still cranks loud but has perfect clarity, No more vibrations etc.
Mt thanks again for all your help, I was going to port the cab but I' glad I didn't, it's loud enough. I'm real happy with the pioneer gear I installed, and very happy with the Retrosound head unit.
I'll post pics when I get it trimmed.
wanta68cuda
Well-Known Member
Look's awesome! I really like those kick panels.
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