Rewiring headlights to a toggle switch

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dustya_383

dustya_383

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Anyone done this?? I want to wire both my headlights/parking lights and wiper motor to toggle switch how can I achieve this thanks
 
I'd like to hear more info on why you are doing this. If you have an electrical problem with the stock wiring, probably a lot cheaper / easier to fix the real problem.

If you have a semi gutted/ custom interior/ dash, and non stock switches, different story.

The thing is, there are several circuits in the light switch. The headlights are supplied UNfused power directly from a big SPLICE in the under--dash harness, and the only circuit protection for the headlights is a circuit breaker on/ in the switch

The tail/ park circuit is actually a separate switch (in the same housing) supplied FUSED power on a separate line.
 
67Dart273 said:
I'd like to hear more info on why you are doing this. If you have an electrical problem with the stock wiring, probably a lot cheaper / easier to fix the real problem.

If you have a semi gutted/ custom interior/ dash, and non stock switches, different story.

The thing is, there are several circuits in the light switch. The headlights are supplied UNfused power directly from a big SPLICE in the under--dash harness, and the only circuit protection for the headlights is a circuit breaker on/ in the switch

The tail/ park circuit is actually a separate switch (in the same housing) supplied FUSED power on a separate line.
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At the moment I have no headlights and not sure why I have tail lights but. Nothing up front , I have a fastlane west cluster and wanted to put more modern switches on it. If its too much of a hassle I can use the original also do you know where the ground is normally located for the headlights??? This is a74 duster
 
Do your front parking lights work? If not, check the bulkhead connector.

My suggestion is to replace the headlight switch. They are available at your local parts store. Use a good one. You will need to push the little button on the switch to pull out the knob all the way for removal. If your lights still don't work after that, then start looking into the wiring.
 
rob_robinson87 said:
Do your front parking lights work? If not, check the bulkhead connector.

My suggestion is to replace the headlight switch. They are available at your local parts store. Use a good one. You will need to push the little button on the switch to pull out the knob all the way for removal. If your lights still don't work after that, then start looking into the wiring.
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When I put in my new motor I removed the whole harness under the hood maybe I missed something like a ground I don't know , this is a brand new switch I'm using so I can't be that
 
I have headlights quit on me on a few different times.One time it was a bad headlight switch.One time it was trouble in the bulk head,and one time the voltage regulator went bad and blew the head lights out.
 
There should be a ground wire for the headlights on the radiator core support.It should be next to the radiator on the opposite site of the support on the drivers side.
 
Well first thing to do is some simple checks You have a diagram?

The headlights feed out of the switch to the dimmer, so with the headlights on, you should have power on TWO of the three dimmer switch terminals. Then go up and probe the headlight connectors.

One reason you have tail lights is as I mentioned, the headlight switch is actually SUPPLIED from two sources. So the tail/ park circuit could be getting power, and the headlights "not."

Inspect the light switch connector as well

Your number one suspects are the bulkhead connector, dimmer/ connector, and headlight switch connector, and grounds out at the rad support.
 
If you toggle it, do it to relays unless you get some STOUT toggle switches capable of handling 30 amps.

I had the lights go out in my car, the hi/low switch was kicked to hi and the lights wouldn't go on. Kicked it back to low... headlights on....
 
Hi,

I did a bunch of searching all over the web for a fused relay panel and finally bought this one shown in the link / thread.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/352802-auxiliary-fuse-relay-panel.html

I copied the pics from the link. I talked to the manufacturer of this unit for a good 15 minutes. The customization is great based on neg or pos trigger.
There are a few nice diagrams on the forum thread too. Shows if you were to negative trigger or positive trigger the relays.

And here is the site i ordered it from.

http://wagongear.com/WiredWagon.html

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Before you go spending a bunch of dough on switches, relays, and other parts, get out your VOM, and conduct a few tests. Chances are that the problem is an easy fix.

Pull headlight, and check for 12v at its socket high & low beam. Check each headlight’s ground, clean their contact point for a better connection. (It’s a black wire /white tracer) It is not uncommon to have two bad headlight bulbs if a current surge took place when they were lit, so use VOM to test the bulbs as well.

Test foot operated high/low beam switch. These inexpensive switches often fail, they are two position with a common feed from headlight switch.

Look here for your car’s wire diagram:

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=18
 
wjajr said:
Before you go spending a bunch of dough on switches, relays, and other parts, get out your VOM, and conduct a few tests. Chances are that the problem is an easy fix.
Click to expand...

EXACTLY Find out what is REALLY wrong before you rewire the space shuttle.
 
Rice Nuker said:
Hi,

I did a bunch of searching all over the web for a fused relay panel and finally bought this one shown in the link / thread.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/352802-auxiliary-fuse-relay-panel.html

I copied the pics from the link. I talked to the manufacturer of this unit for a good 15 minutes. The customization is great based on neg or pos trigger.
There are a few nice diagrams on the forum thread too. Shows if you were to negative trigger or positive trigger the relays.

And here is the site i ordered it from.

http://wagongear.com/WiredWagon.html

.
Click to expand...

Those may be OK, AND I'M NOT TRYING TO CRITICIZE, but there may be cheaper ways. Those boxes those folks are selling are actually made as blanks by Bussman, and can be configured different ways.

But I went a LOT cheaper. I got a relay / fuse center out of a minivan which looks remarkably like those. Has enough fuses/ relays to run ignition/ pump/ lights/ security system. Mounted it on the left fender apron of the Dart in front of the washer box.

But again, FIND the problem you have, instead of tearing apart the car.
 
Good points there.

Troubleshoot (and understand) the existing system first before upgrading.

Good idea finding a vehicle as a donor for a relay fuse box. Those factory fuse systems on modern cars are usually very high quality and weather proof. I basically was too lazy to search out a good candidate for my application so I bought a ready made unit.

What mini-van did you pull your fuse / relay panel out of?



67Dart273 said:
Those may be OK, AND I'M NOT TRYING TO CRITICIZE, but there may be cheaper ways. Those boxes those folks are selling are actually made as blanks by Bussman, and can be configured different ways.

But I went a LOT cheaper. I got a relay / fuse center out of a minivan which looks remarkably like those. Has enough fuses/ relays to run ignition/ pump/ lights/ security system. Mounted it on the left fender apron of the Dart in front of the washer box.

But again, FIND the problem you have, instead of tearing apart the car.
Click to expand...
 
Rice Nuker said:
What mini-van did you pull your fuse / relay panel out of?
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Wish I could remember. It was a Mopar product. Little box about the same as the commercial one pictured. I had one other, I think, Ford, but it was put together in such a way that reconfiguring the relays/ fuses would have been almost impossible.

I'll try and get a photo, but found this on a webpage, seems to be a 94 Voyager and looks almost exactly about my layout

The bottom left are larger fuse (don't remember the "type" but NAPA has 'em) and the top right are mini push in fuses, everything else is relay sockets

The way they are wired underneath it is easy to buss or separate them the way you want, IE separate fuses for the alternator/ ignition circuit, pump, high and low beams, etc.

The big studs lower left are main feed into the box.

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Thanks for the help guys I'll try to pin point the problem first and think about upgrading later. No hi beams switch so I'm just testing for lows
 
dustya_383 said:
Thanks for the help guys I'll try to pin point the problem first and think about upgrading later. No hi beams switch so I'm just testing for lows
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Hey there, What do you mean "no hi beams switch". Is it missing or..?

Have you inspected the main hot splice under the dash for corrosion or wire failures?
Do you have power to the head light switch?

Do you have power running from the head light switch to the HI LOW beam switch?

Do you have power coming out of the HI LOW beam switch for both settings?
 
When I bought the car back in 06 it never had hi beam switch hooked up it was there but no wires were hooked to it plus never really used em but want too

I have power to headlight switch cause remember the tail lights come on when I pull the switch
 
Yep. The dimmer switch is a "double throw" (some would call it a two way) switch. The headlight switch feeds power to the dimmer switch. The dimmer switches power from one wire to the other, and feeds out to the high or low beams. You need that hooked up. If a nasty cop should start poking around, that's good for a ticket.
 
You say the switch has not been hooked since you had the car? If thats the case your headlights have not worked since you've had the car, correct? If the lights have not worked since you've had the car, it's your dimmer switch. Hook it up and your lights should work. I see you want to toggle switch your wiper motor as well. Has it worked since you've had the car? If not, may be a bad motor..
 
HemiPar said:
You say the switch has not been hooked since you had the car? If thats the case your headlights have not worked since you've had the car, correct? If the lights have not worked since you've had the car, it's your dimmer switch. Hook it up and your lights should work. I see you want to toggle switch your wiper motor as well. Has it worked since you've had the car? If not, may be a bad motor..
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Since ive owned it the lights worked and wipers motor both worked fine just recently when I pulled the 360 to build and swap to 4 speed I pulled the under hood harness to paint engine bay. When I went to hook back up (back in August so )is when I realized front blinkers Andhead lights don't work. all lights in the rear work Thinkin I didn't connect any of the grounds cause I don't see any under there so I mustve taped em up when I re did factory tape around the wires
 
don't half a$$ things, you will kick yourself later for it, find the problem and solve it
 
Check the wires at the bulkhead connector. The one inside the car like to push back out especially on stuff this old. I have a couple of connectors on mine that do that adn they are the ignition stuff which makes for great fun occasionally. :)
 
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