Ring selection & break-in

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mopar4x4stroker

mopar4x4stroker

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Coming down home stretch w/ my build... I know, I aint been on in a while :eek:ops:. Been working like a mad man. You guys probably forgot me by now. I'm the kid building the 408 for my 86 4x4 w/ O/D as a DD/weekend tower/wheeler. It'll be mostly city.
I need help deciding on what ring manufacture and or material to use. My machinist will be finish honing for molly's. My question is should I go hastings, selaed power, speed pro, total seal, childs & albert, JE ect? Should they be cast, ductile, plasma? Cast are $30 Plasma are like $115(big price diff). My pistons are keith black KB416's w/ 5/64 5/64 3/16 ring lands.

My next question is break-in procedure....

I've been told you should drive it like you stole it after initial cam break-in and oil change. I've heard if you break it in like a pu$$y it'll run like a pu$$y. My only concern w/ that is, this is my first motor and trans build. I dont care to go tear up 9k worth of parts in less than 5min. I dont want a bind or a flare up on FT pull. My shop is on a road thats 40mph, I can safley exced to 60 or 70 if need.
Whats better for fresh rings, high RPM or heavy load? In other words would a full throtle pull (w/o kick down) from 2nd-3rd be better than just romping on it in 2nd gear to 3000-3500 rpm and engine braking to 1,500 over and over? Or would EB be a bad idea, as in induce blow by. I would think the EBing would push the rings out aswell to help seating?

How do you guys suggest I break it in.

Thanks
 
Which ones do you recomend? They have 12 different types that range from $60 a set to $400 a set. I dont want to spend more than $150. What advantage is there from cast vs plasma vs ductile?

This is a "budget" street motor that will be NA on 9.3:1 and will never see the other side of 5,500. Would std cast mollys be fine. How do you file gapless rings? KB hypers need a lot more ring gap on the top ring. Would KB rings account for this, would I get a .035 top ring and a .030 sec/oil. I have a ring filer so its not a big deal. I just thought I'd try to save my self from having to remove so much material.

Thanks again
 
File fit is the best way to go (even on a budget build). Can you post a link to rings you're talking about
 
I just went with some $40--$50 dollar rings and drove it normal for the first few hundred miles but then it was a 340 with normal length piston skirts

My machinist said file fit are a total pain so I skip it. Ring seal is really good 4,000 plus miles later
 
the best way to insure good ring seal is CLEAN CYLINDER BORES clean your bores with brake cleaner and a white rag clean until rag stays super clean this will take some time if you do this any ring you chose will seal .......there is no such thing as too clean
 
1970Duster said:
File fit is the best way to go (even on a budget build). Can you post a link to rings you're talking about
Click to expand...

I wasnt really referring to any ring in particular. If you mean the keith black "KB" rings I mentioned, I just meant their rings in general. I doubt they make there own rings, I just figured their top ring would be smaller (gaped bigger) being that their hyper pistons require a large gap on the top ring.

If all I really need are std cast molly's then that saves some coin. Whats the biggest down fall to cast molly in a NA street motor?
 
Get ahold of the manufacturer and go by what they recommend. Tell them all of your specs. and especially the finish on the cylinder walls. Phone several manufacturers and go with what they recommend, then choose your brand.
 
jimjimjimmy said:
the best way to insure good ring seal is CLEAN CYLINDER BORES clean your bores with brake cleaner and a white rag clean until rag stays super clean this will take some time if you do this any ring you chose will seal .......there is no such thing as too clean
Click to expand...

I did that with the jugs on my sportster when I went from an 883 to a 1250 (not much motor experience to speak of), as soon as I got it clean it flashed, I cleaned it again, it just flashed worse. Any way to prevent this. I just ended up washing them in the sink w/ hot soapy water and immediately doused them w/ WD. Is it ok to use WD or should i use motor oil? Whats best for assemblying the pistons, reg motor oil on the rings and cyl or should I use assembly lube? Sorry for such basic Q's. This is my first motor?

I'll just call KB and see what rings they recomend, I'm willing to bet that they'll just suggest their rings. I'll just ask them all my questions lol. Like break in and assembly lube, that is if I go with their rings. other wise I'll go w/ whatever the ring manufacture recommends, not like they'll give a damn If my rings dont seat or if I scuff a skirt. I like to hear what you guys recommend too.

My next biggest challenge I'll need your guys help with will be degreeing the cam and cheaking valve clearance. Which on a 220-225ish dur and a .480-.500 lift and 20cc dish pistons I shouldn't have an issue. I'd rather be safe than sorry though. I'm also not sure if I can use just std cup/ball P rods or if I need cutoms w/ the RHS heads. I'll be using MP 1.5 aluminum RR's, not sure on the V stem height. I believe their just std, whatever that is. I'd have to call brian to be sure. I need to call him to double check what springs I have anyway.
 
Dartnut said:
Get ahold of the manufacturer and go by what they recommend. Tell them all of your specs. and especially the finish on the cylinder walls. Phone several manufacturers and go with what they recommend, then choose your brand.
Click to expand...


Will do, kind of a no brainer there haha. I should have thought of that. thanks.
 
I agree all the way with the file fit. Even on e budget build. I have had the best luck though with plain iron rings. They are less picky and break in easier.
 
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